Ceramithane.......

Dirtbmw20

Lee Casto
Silver Member
I know from reading through all the posts lately on finishes and even some past posts that I found with the search function that there are several makers and repair guys that are using Ceramithane.

I bought a quart of it and was going to try it out on some j/p's, Geeeez it's gonna take forever to use this quart just doing small joint protectors,lol.


I was wondering if anyone using it would be so kind as to share some tips on the application and use of it. The directions say it can be brushed on or sprayed on.

Are the ones using it brushing it or spraying it ??
Do you have the cue (j/p's in my case) spinning ?? If so, how fast/slow ??

After it dries, do I sand it and polish it like I would if I had used CA ??
Sand the shiny spots down until it's all dull and polish ??

I'm gonna play and experiment with it and see what happens, gonna just take a piece of maple and brush it on and let it sit for the night. Any and all suggestions, tips, secret way to hold my mouth, etc... would be greatly and kindly appreciated, all secrets will be held in the vault for my life expectancy, I more than welcome any PM if you don't want to post for the public to see. :)

Thanks in advance for any and all tips.


Lee
 
I know from reading through all the posts lately on finishes and even some past posts that I found with the search function that there are several makers and repair guys that are using Ceramithane.

I bought a quart of it and was going to try it out on some j/p's, Geeeez it's gonna take forever to use this quart just doing small joint protectors,lol.


I was wondering if anyone using it would be so kind as to share some tips on the application and use of it. The directions say it can be brushed on or sprayed on.

Are the ones using it brushing it or spraying it ??
Do you have the cue (j/p's in my case) spinning ?? If so, how fast/slow ??

After it dries, do I sand it and polish it like I would if I had used CA ??
Sand the shiny spots down until it's all dull and polish ??

I'm gonna play and experiment with it and see what happens, gonna just take a piece of maple and brush it on and let it sit for the night. Any and all suggestions, tips, secret way to hold my mouth, etc... would be greatly and kindly appreciated, all secrets will be held in the vault for my life expectancy, I more than welcome any PM if you don't want to post for the public to see. :)

Thanks in advance for any and all tips.


Lee


http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=241103&highlight=Ceramithane

check this

Kim
 
Thanks so much Kim !!! I have probably read that thread about 10 times in the last few weeks,lol. TONS of info, so much in fact it is a little confusing since I haven't had any experience with half the epoxies mentioned and really none of the other finishes mentioned, but still a ton of useful advice, thank you once again for the link.


Lee
 
The only con I have found with ceramithane is that it cannot take the heat here in GA. I have have 3 owners cook the hell out of their cues in their car.

These owners leave their cues in their cars all the time. So it took a few sunny 95 deg days to do this. The inside of the car gets towards 130 deg here in the summer.

I refinished them. All the others are holding a nice finish.

Kim
 
Kim,

Have you had any problem with what look like little curdles in your Ceramithane? I used to spray it, but then started using a foam brush - was able to build up the coating better. But I get these little lumps that I have to carefully watch out for and remove.

I think it's mostly a matter of my Ceramithane getting old and/or I need to run it through a fine mesh filter before applying.

That problem did cause me to go back and give EM9300 a better trial - I like it too.

Like someone else said, you gotta try all the solutions yourself - better to work from experience than hearsay.

Just wondering.

Gary
 
Kim,

Have you had any problem with what look like little curdles in your Ceramithane? I used to spray it, but then started using a foam brush - was able to build up the coating better. But I get these little lumps that I have to carefully watch out for and remove.

I think it's mostly a matter of my Ceramithane getting old and/or I need to run it through a fine mesh filter before applying.

That problem did cause me to go back and give EM9300 a better trial - I like it too.

Like someone else said, you gotta try all the solutions yourself - better to work from experience than hearsay.

Just wondering.

Gary

I never had that problem with ceramithane but, I always used fairly new stuff. I would try a paint filter. The 9300 was good also but it gets blue if it's too thick.

I am using RAKA epoxy now. It's not quite as shiny but it is faster and hard as granite.

Kim
 
The only con I have found with ceramithane is that it cannot take the heat here in GA. I have have 3 owners cook the hell out of their cues in their car.

These owners leave their cues in their cars all the time. So it took a few sunny 95 deg days to do this. The inside of the car gets towards 130 deg here in the summer.

I refinished them. All the others are holding a nice finish.

Kim

I finally got a chance to try out the Ceramithane over the weekend. I just took a small piece of maple and sanded it down smooth, put 1 coat and sanded it, then another coat and sanded it like the instructions said to, then polished....... it didn't come out as well as I had hoped for.

So...... after polishing out the 2nd coat, I put on 3 more coats that night, waited until the next morning, then added one more coat, then came home that night after work and polsihed with some rubbing compound THEN sanded with some micromesh and damn if it don't look pretty darn good for the very first attempt and for only having basically 4-5 coats on it. For the cost of the product and the ease and safety of use, I think the Ceramithane will work pretty good for my small joint protectors, and dang it ought to take awhile to use that quart too.

After I use the Ceramithane, I might try the Diamond clear mentioned in the other finish thread and see how it does compared to the Ceramithane.

Thanks again for the link with all the info Kim !!!
 
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I finally got a chance to try out the Ceramithane over the weekend. I just took a small piece of maple and sanded it down smooth, put 1 coat and sanded it, then another coat and sanded it like the instructions said to, then polished....... it didn't come out as well as I had hoped for.

So...... after polishing out the 2nd coat, I put on 3 more coats that night, waited until the next morning, then added one more coat, then came home that night after work and polsihed with some rubbing compound THEN sanded with some micromesh and damn if it don't look pretty darn good for the very first attempt and for only having basically 4-5 coats on it. For the cost of the product and the ease and safety of use, I think the Ceramithane will work pretty good for my small joint protectors, and dang it ought to take awhile to use that quart too.

After I use the Ceramithane, I might try the Diamond clear mentioned in the other finish thread and see how it does compared to the Ceramithane.

Thanks again for the link with all the info Kim !!!

You are not reading the directions..... You can only put on 2 coats per day and it is not recommended that you use more than 4 coats.

You can sand the first 2 coats "tomorrow" and put on 2 more. Then you should wait 5 to 7 days for it to cure before wet sanding and buffing.

You cannot get any uncured finish to shine as it is not hard enough yet.

Ceramithane gives a great shine but you must......Have patience.....

Kim
 
You are not reading the directions..... You can only put on 2 coats per day and it is not recommended that you use more than 4 coats.

You can sand the first 2 coats "tomorrow" and put on 2 more. Then you should wait 5 to 7 days for it to cure before wet sanding and buffing.

You cannot get any uncured finish to shine as it is not hard enough yet.

Ceramithane gives a great shine but you must......Have patience.....

Kim


Kim...... I certainly believe you as you have tons more experience than myself, but nowhere on the directions on the can does it say NOT to apply more than 2 coats per day and it doesn't say anything about only putting on 4 coats total. It only says to apply a coat, let dry about 1 hour, sand lightly, wipe dust, and apply a 2nd coat.

However, I DO remember reading some different instructions that varied a little, maybe it was on their website, I've read so much on finishes the last few weeks I can't remember what I read and where I read it at, but it still didn't say anything about how many coats per day and nothing on a number of total coats to apply.

I will go back and read some more, see if I can confuse myself a little more. :embarrassed2:

Thanks again Kim for the effort to help.


Lee
 
Kim...... I certainly believe you as you have tons more experience than myself, but nowhere on the directions on the can does it say NOT to apply more than 2 coats per day and it doesn't say anything about only putting on 4 coats total. It only says to apply a coat, let dry about 1 hour, sand lightly, wipe dust, and apply a 2nd coat.

However, I DO remember reading some different instructions that varied a little, maybe it was on their website, I've read so much on finishes the last few weeks I can't remember what I read and where I read it at, but it still didn't say anything about how many coats per day and nothing on a number of total coats to apply.

I will go back and read some more, see if I can confuse myself a little more. :embarrassed2:

Thanks again Kim for the effort to help.


Lee

I can't find that written right now. I will keep looking. There is no way you can sand it in 1 hour either. I takes longer than that to harden. I put the second coat on in about an hour without sanding. Then I let it harden over night and then sand. 2 more coats about 1 hour apart and wait 1 week.

That's the way I do it.

Kim
 
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