change of pins in cues
- Thread starter dgem
- Start date
You bore a 5/16 hole and thread the hole for the pin.fullsplicefiend said:
fullsplicefiend said:
It would depend on the length of the pin and how long you wanted it to stick out.
I believe conventional wisdom dictates at least 3 times the diameter of the pin.fullsplicefiend said:
Radials go down at least 2 inches.
I don't think anyone's gonna touch that request.fullsplicefiend said:
fullsplicefiend said:
Absolutely no point or benefit in that plus it'd take 5 minutes to unscrew.
zero for me.fullsplicefiend said:
JoeyInCali said:zero for me.
Thats my point. A lot of makers make their A joints with as little weight as possible. I need as much weight as possible there so I figured just installing a long ass 3/8 pin in there would be my best bet. It wont be a jump break just a playing cue with an unscrewable A joint, which will probably never get unscrewed.
Anyways I know Im coming up with some pretty crazy ideas right now that nobody thinks will work but once I have it made i'm hoping it will all come together.
So basically what I need to know is what is the longest 3/8x10 pin you can buy.
Thanks
Just bore a deeper hole, insert a dowel there that has glued powdered tungsten inside.fullsplicefiend said:
fullsplicefiend said:
1ft sections are very common but longer is not a problem. I think with your way of thinking you'd be better off asking whats the longest tap I can buy & how much is a custom going to set me back.
While there is nothing cast in stone dictating pin depth/exposed, common sense should be your guide. Obviously, having more pin exposed than you have epoxied into the butt is a bad structure. In certain circumstances the exposed pin can act as a lever on the portion that is installed in the collar area. The longer the lever, the less force that is required to move it and the installed portion.
Pin length is up to the builder. Be it joint pin or 'A' joint, pin length can be varied to 'zero-in' to a particular desired ultimate wght. of the cue and it's corresponding bal.point. With regards to joint pins, I've adopted a policy of 1/3 exposed, 2/3 installed. My pin of choice is the 3/8-10, flat-faced with an exposed length of 1 3/8". Do the math.
'A' jnt. pin length, again, is up to the builder and how he wants to manipulate wght. Given the design of my 'A' jnt., minimum 'A' jnt. pin length is 3 1/2" and can be as long as 5 1/2" as the cue requires.
It should go without saying that I'm a big fan of forward weighting. I appreciate the fwd. wghtng. of a steel jointed cue but don't like the 'hit'. I believe I've accomplished my desired result by keeping the wght. on the inside of the cue rather than on the outside. I also like that the installed wght. is in front of my grip hand rather than behind it (as with a wght. bolt). Solid structure is key to a great hit.
Pin length is up to the builder. Be it joint pin or 'A' joint, pin length can be varied to 'zero-in' to a particular desired ultimate wght. of the cue and it's corresponding bal.point. With regards to joint pins, I've adopted a policy of 1/3 exposed, 2/3 installed. My pin of choice is the 3/8-10, flat-faced with an exposed length of 1 3/8". Do the math.
'A' jnt. pin length, again, is up to the builder and how he wants to manipulate wght. Given the design of my 'A' jnt., minimum 'A' jnt. pin length is 3 1/2" and can be as long as 5 1/2" as the cue requires.
It should go without saying that I'm a big fan of forward weighting. I appreciate the fwd. wghtng. of a steel jointed cue but don't like the 'hit'. I believe I've accomplished my desired result by keeping the wght. on the inside of the cue rather than on the outside. I also like that the installed wght. is in front of my grip hand rather than behind it (as with a wght. bolt). Solid structure is key to a great hit.
It varies depending on materials and specs. 3/8-10 can be had in rod form, so you could make a pin as long as you like. (up to 36")fullsplicefiend said:
http://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=91&ITEM_ID=5762