Changing Taper?

[rackcracker]

I have a few carom cues that I didn't know what they were when I ordered. I was intrigued by the wood joint and the price was right. The taper on these cues is linear, gains a mm about every 2 inchs, starting at the ferule 12.5mm up to 22mm at the collar. I am considering chucking one up in a 1/2 inch drill at the ferule, and using some 60 grit paper to make it more pool friendly, then smooth it up with some finer and finer grits, then burnish it with leather. I thought I would mark off the drop, then mark every few inchs to add the mm's back to within about an inch of the screw end. Sound like a plan? I am not looking for a competition cue, just an around the house cue. I have read all the posts I could find here, including the parabolic one.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I have a few carom cues that I didn't know what they were when I ordered. I was intrigued by the wood joint and the price was right. The taper on these cues is linear, gains a mm about every 2 inchs, starting at the ferule 12.5mm up to 22mm at the collar. I am considering chucking one up in a 1/2 inch drill at the ferule, and using some 60 grit paper to make it more pool friendly, then smooth it up with some finer and finer grits, then burnish it with leather. I thought I would mark off the drop, then mark every few inchs to add the mm's back to within about an inch of the screw end. Sound like a plan? I am not looking for a competition cue, just an around the house cue. I have read all the posts I could find here, including the parabolic one.

That is a lot of wood .

 

[greyghost]

find a local cue repair guy or maker.....should only cost 25-40 dollars for them to throw a less progressive taper on there.

-Grey Ghost-

 

[rackcracker]

I really need to do this myself (broke). I don't have $25 in this cue. If it was ruined, I would not cry over it. If my plan is not reccommended any suggestions on how I could do this myself? If not, my best bet may to to try and find someone to trade with, problem is there is not a carom table within a hundred miles of here. I could also leave it as is and use it as a break cue, or use for trick shots where the ball rolls down two cues, (would roll faster).

 

[DanO]

I respect your ambition to change it yourself. What do you have for a lathe? A contolled router cut would be more consistent. That's a lot of material to remove by sanding alone. If you are going to sand it, Chris's book has a good tip. Cut the ferrule down close to the finish size you want, then pull sand away from the ferrule. Haven't read it in a while but I think that is what he said?

 

[rackcracker]

Thanks for taking time to reply. My lathe option is a 1/2 drill in the jaws of a vise, and a radial ball bearing in another vise. I have a variable speed router and several router bits, but I don't know how to approach a shaft with it. My ferule is the desired size diameter 12.5mm, and although it is short 12mm it will chuck into the drill.

 

[rackcracker]

The deed is done! Well I got motivated after the cue fell over and caught the coffee table. My lathe ended up being the 1/2' D handle drill on the floor, with the screw end supported by a hole in the side of a cardboard box. Worked quite well actually. There is no science in this taper, but at least I can close the bridge now. And I now have 3 "sights" on my ferule now.

 

[KJ Cues]

Congrats on your initiative. I'll bet you learned a lot too, besides how to install marks on your ferrule.
It's never a good idea to chuck onto the ferrule for this reason and the fact that when you are chucking onto the ferrule, what you are relying on is the strength of the base of the ferrule's tenon. That's what's really turning your shaft. The ferrule is merely a bushing btwn the jaws and the tenon.

60 grit is a bit stiff but I understand that you had some wood to remove.
You obviously saw the scratches/sanding-marks it left. Deep huh?
The heavier the grit, the deeper it will cut into the shaft. With that comes just that much more twist on the tenon you're chucking on. Food 4 thought.

In removing the wood that you have, you've removed the shell that was keeping (any?) internal stress in check. The wood could move.
I'd suggest that you get a sealer on it asap. Allowing any moisture into the wood could awaken any stress that has been dormant. Just burnishing it won't do it. It will only slow it down for about 10 seconds. Get a real sealer.
Lightly sand your cured sealer and hit it with a light coat of Carnuba wax and you're good to go.

Not trying to school you, just sharing things so you'll be better aware for the next time. Like I said, it was your initiative.

 

[rackcracker]

Very good information, Thank you. I have some polyurethane laying around, is that good for sealing? I don't know if it was stressed out or not, but I picked it up a few minutes ago and it did not feel as smooth as when I put it down around lunch time. The final sealer before that was pledge put on with a coffee filter.

Not entirely a bushing situation here as my sights extend into the wood a couple mm's. This furrule is very short. I cut another one this evening before reading this, and put some heavy paper from a grocery bag between the furrule and jaws and the sights were much reduced but still there. Any thoughts on what I could use to protect the ferrule? As you know 12.5 mm's pretty much fills up a 1/2 inch chuck so it would have to be thin. I can't see any other way spin it with that big delicate wood screw at the other end. And unlike what I read somwhere this shaft is one piece of wood, one ferrule, and one tip. No dowels were used.

The first one I did plays, and hits pretty darn good. I use those darn sights, and I think I get a better grip and feel from a wrapless cue. The second needs be cut down a little more as it still feels kinda like a broom handle, but at least its not to small.

 

[greyghost]

Very good information, Thank you. I have some polyurethane laying around, is that good for sealing? I don't know if it was stressed out or not, but I picked it up a few minutes ago and it did not feel as smooth as when I put it down around lunch time. The final sealer before that was pledge put on with a coffee filter.

Not entirely a bushing situation here as my sights extend into the wood a couple mm's. This furrule is very short. I cut another one this evening before reading this, and put some heavy paper from a grocery bag between the furrule and jaws and the sights were much reduced but still there. Any thoughts on what I could use to protect the ferrule? As you know 12.5 mm's pretty much fills up a 1/2 inch chuck so it would have to be thin. I can't see any other way spin it with that big delicate wood screw at the other end. And unlike what I read somwhere this shaft is one piece of wood, one ferrule, and one tip. No dowels were used.

The first one I did plays, and hits pretty darn good. I use those darn sights, and I think I get a better grip and feel from a wrapless cue. The second needs be cut down a little more as it still feels kinda like a broom handle, but at least its not to small.

no polyeurethane is not a good sealer its a finish.........a sealer is very thin and just closes the open pores in the woods surface SEALING it off to outside moisture or more escape of inner moisture.

you can find it at lowes, homedepot and any local lumber store..........Minwax is commonly seen in these places and is commonly referred to as SANDING SEALER and you can even find it in a spray can........ cost anywhere from 5-10 for a can that will go a very very long way.

it applies like a stain, just put some on a rag and pass it over the wood while its spinning and let it dry depending on how big the open grain is in the wood it may take multiple coats to get a smooth surface.

If you can't afford that then I suggest using lighter fluid and burnishing the heck out of the shaft with it, the oil particulates in the fluid will stay with the wood and help to seal it from the elements better, you could then come on top that with the carnuba wax........not as good as sealer but works good and gives a good feel while still having some kind of barrier other than nothing.

in regards to the wax make sure its NEVER PINK......and it should smell generally kinda like bananas......if its yellow and smells of banana then you got the right thing.