So you're saying you DID make these blanks but aren't familiar with basic equipment???Cuemaster98 said:
Check out my first cue built from Chris H. Deluxe lathe
- Thread starter Cuemaster98
- Start date
Spur Driver
Yes, it will help,a lot. The chucks on the Hightower are rounded, they have on teeth and only three jaws. Also there is no torque from the tail stock. If you use a round pointed Dead center you will find slipage as you try to cut for the butt sleeve and jonit. This will also occur while sanding. I use a spur driver dead center (4 pointed) and it works great.
No, Balbushka, Martin and so on did not use UV protective finishes. They also didn't post on forums, use Radial Pins or Morri Tips. They also spent a lifetime getting around $60.00 for a cue.
In my lifetime I have used Shemelke blanks, Prather fronts etc. As time marched on I found more satisfaction starting out with square wood. In the end the general public is the deciding factor on a cues worth.
At one time I looked down in my junk bin and guessed I had about 5K in finishes, waxes etc that I would never use again.
If you would like I will post a pic of an RT Custom Cue made in 1996 with a UV inhibitor coating. You can still see every detail and color. To make a clearer point, grab a one year old house cue, sand the finish off, you will probably see some very pretty wood.
Yes, it will help,a lot. The chucks on the Hightower are rounded, they have on teeth and only three jaws. Also there is no torque from the tail stock. If you use a round pointed Dead center you will find slipage as you try to cut for the butt sleeve and jonit. This will also occur while sanding. I use a spur driver dead center (4 pointed) and it works great.
No, Balbushka, Martin and so on did not use UV protective finishes. They also didn't post on forums, use Radial Pins or Morri Tips. They also spent a lifetime getting around $60.00 for a cue.
In my lifetime I have used Shemelke blanks, Prather fronts etc. As time marched on I found more satisfaction starting out with square wood. In the end the general public is the deciding factor on a cues worth.
At one time I looked down in my junk bin and guessed I had about 5K in finishes, waxes etc that I would never use again.
If you would like I will post a pic of an RT Custom Cue made in 1996 with a UV inhibitor coating. You can still see every detail and color. To make a clearer point, grab a one year old house cue, sand the finish off, you will probably see some very pretty wood.
Thanks Tom..that make a lot of sense to me now. To avoid splipage, I chuck up the cue in the handle so that I can work on the forearm and butt sleeve. I don't know if that was wise for sanding and adding finish. Seem to work ok for me and the cue spun straight with no wobble. I use the router to cut the handle so assumed that it will be concentric and straight enough without having to use the tailstock. Any problem with doing it this way?
Also, I use the spur driver from Chris when tapering the shaft and butt, I'm sure it still has splipage as the live center in the tailstock is round. I'll probably grab one and tried it out.
Craig, the full splice blanks are been manufactured for us...if I was personally doing the full splice blank ...it won't be $85 plus each. I'm a newbie when it come to machine for cues.
Regards,
Duc.
Also, I use the spur driver from Chris when tapering the shaft and butt, I'm sure it still has splipage as the live center in the tailstock is round. I'll probably grab one and tried it out.
Craig, the full splice blanks are been manufactured for us...if I was personally doing the full splice blank ...it won't be $85 plus each. I'm a newbie when it come to machine for cues.
Regards,
Duc.
On cutting
I know now what you are doing now. I was always taught to face off and do cuts closest to your front chuck. the reason for this is lets say you are running 1/1000 off at the chuck, by the time you go 29 inches down how many thousands are you off?
Now the biggie question for you to think about. You are a proud businessman and proud of your product. Many of your spliced wood has very colorful veneers. Now you are suggesting the use of protective coatings that will make them look dull and drab in the near future. Customers of your cuemakers start complaing to them,they call you, as you told them great, do it. As a business person it sounds lie a great way to get in a trap and put yourself out of biz.
I know now what you are doing now. I was always taught to face off and do cuts closest to your front chuck. the reason for this is lets say you are running 1/1000 off at the chuck, by the time you go 29 inches down how many thousands are you off?
Now the biggie question for you to think about. You are a proud businessman and proud of your product. Many of your spliced wood has very colorful veneers. Now you are suggesting the use of protective coatings that will make them look dull and drab in the near future. Customers of your cuemakers start complaing to them,they call you, as you told them great, do it. As a business person it sounds lie a great way to get in a trap and put yourself out of biz.
Hi Tom,
I'm not sure what you mean, I not suggesting anything here to cuebuilders with regards to cuemaking....other than "Buy my full splice blanks and make some money". LOL
I'm just experimenting and learning how to built a cue from my blanks. I'm sure most if not all of my clients have already establish the type of finish they will be using...as for me...I'm just testing it out with super glue for now, shellac and soon epoxy finish on my third cue. I have a friend that have a spray booth and uses automotive clear...probably will check out how he put on his finish. But I'm not at that level yet, I'll just hack my way until I find what will work for me.
Regards,
Duc.
I'm not sure what you mean, I not suggesting anything here to cuebuilders with regards to cuemaking....other than "Buy my full splice blanks and make some money". LOL
I'm just experimenting and learning how to built a cue from my blanks. I'm sure most if not all of my clients have already establish the type of finish they will be using...as for me...I'm just testing it out with super glue for now, shellac and soon epoxy finish on my third cue. I have a friend that have a spray booth and uses automotive clear...probably will check out how he put on his finish. But I'm not at that level yet, I'll just hack my way until I find what will work for me.
Regards,
Duc.
cutter said:
I think Steve's comments were a bit harsh even though he makes a good point. Let's break it down though...
There is a difference between a guy who makes the full splice himself versus buying a blank. I would purchase the cue based one the playability and overall quality not whether or not he actually made it himself. The price I would pay however would be based on the quality of the work and who actually made the blank. For instance, if Szamboti, Hercek or someone like that made the blank its worth more than if Ping Pong Poo made it in China. As long as the cue is correctly described at the point of sale I don't see a problem doing what he's doing. It was said that it is a great way of learning.
As far as the comments regarding the finish, its his first cue. There is nothing wrong with trying different things out. Its all a part of learning.
Finally I'll say this: You are representing yourself as a Voting Member of the American Cuemakers Association. I think a lot of people in this forum are more encouraging rather than discouraging. In my eyes, it doesn't shine a great light on the ACA when its members are putting down aspiring cuemakers regardless of how they make their cues.
I'm not posting this to become confrontational. As I stated in the begining I think Steve made a great point to a degree. Besides, only one of us is an accomplished cuemaker and its not the guy that has his nephew under his name.
Duc, good work so far and don't listen to the people who just want to pick your business apart. Listen to the vast amount of cuemakers that want to give you advice on how to do things correctly.
Dave
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