Can alcohol be used to clean your shaft? Like eg. Rubbing alcohol?
Cleaning of shaft
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Use the search option and do a search for shaft cleaning, There has only been 10,000 post about this subject.
Ill Gotten Gain
Deceased
+1 on that one
Yes, you can, but use 91% by volume instead of the stuff you find at the 7-11. What you'll need will be found at Walgreens, or places like that. One bottle will be damn near a lifetime supply and will only cost you a couple of bucks.
Using the alky will puff the grain up a bit so burnish your shaft with a folded paper towel when dry. Do it vigorously until you feel the shaft becoming warm through the towel. :smile:
P.S. Keep the alcohol of the tip.
Using the alky will puff the grain up a bit so burnish your shaft with a folded paper towel when dry. Do it vigorously until you feel the shaft becoming warm through the towel. :smile:
P.S. Keep the alcohol of the tip.
Yes, definitely keep the alcohol off the tip. It burns!
Oh. Pool cue shaft.
Nevermind.
My local Wallgreens has 70%, 91% and 99% isopropyl alcohol at pretty much the same price. The 99% stuff has essentially no water in it.
Shaft cleanining
Clean with denatured alcohol , alcohol will raise the grain of the wood and make the shaft feel rough or fuzzy dont worry about it.
Mix denatured alcohol and shellac 50/50 mix , apply 5 to 10 coats.
At this point the choice is yours, I use a green or gray scrub pad and lightly sand the dried shellac to smooth it out then wax .
Please Note that I am not sanding on the wood
Then wax with any good caruaba car wax from the auto parts store.
IMO Maple shafts need to be sealed and protected. .
Shellac is bug shit from the Lac bug , I think from India or china,
Any way shellac is good for the wood, keeps the shaft from drying out.
One very important part about sealing your shaft is, it keeps the chalk out of the shaft,
This can be done with or without the use of a lathe
I use CLEAR SHELLAC
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/shellac2.html
http://www.amazon.com/Wax-Carnauba-...370128956&sr=1-21&keywords=carnauba+paste+wax
MMike
Clean with denatured alcohol , alcohol will raise the grain of the wood and make the shaft feel rough or fuzzy dont worry about it.
Mix denatured alcohol and shellac 50/50 mix , apply 5 to 10 coats.
At this point the choice is yours, I use a green or gray scrub pad and lightly sand the dried shellac to smooth it out then wax .
Please Note that I am not sanding on the wood
Then wax with any good caruaba car wax from the auto parts store.
IMO Maple shafts need to be sealed and protected. .
Shellac is bug shit from the Lac bug , I think from India or china,
Any way shellac is good for the wood, keeps the shaft from drying out.
One very important part about sealing your shaft is, it keeps the chalk out of the shaft,
This can be done with or without the use of a lathe
I use CLEAR SHELLAC
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/shellac2.html
http://www.amazon.com/Wax-Carnauba-...370128956&sr=1-21&keywords=carnauba+paste+wax
MMike
I like this approach to the problem the best, but would add that at least once a year I would take the shaft to a friendly neighborhood cue repair person and have he, she, or it, put it on the lathe for a bit of light sanding. This should help to eliminate any flat spots that may have crept in.
And, remember, light sanding (I,000; 1500; and 2000 grit paper) will not significantly reduce the diameter of the cue shaft.
Cleaning your shaft
Any time you clean wood with anything that is wet it will raise the grain.
Yes alcohol desolves shellac it is sticky until you get all the shellac off the shaft.
After you reseal the shaft and wax it is all smooth and slick.
I am sure there is more then a few ways of cleaning the dirt and chalk out of the wood grain.
Not saying this to be a smart ass,
But I rather keep the dirt and chalk from getting into the grain, then worry about how to get the dirt and the chalk out of the wood grain.
If the dirt and the chalk is suspended in the wax and wood sealer (shellac) then Its a simple wipe the old shellac and wax off with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol,
Then reseal and wax and you are good to go.
15 min job
MMike
Any time you clean wood with anything that is wet it will raise the grain.
Yes alcohol desolves shellac it is sticky until you get all the shellac off the shaft.
After you reseal the shaft and wax it is all smooth and slick.
I am sure there is more then a few ways of cleaning the dirt and chalk out of the wood grain.
Not saying this to be a smart ass,
But I rather keep the dirt and chalk from getting into the grain, then worry about how to get the dirt and the chalk out of the wood grain.
If the dirt and the chalk is suspended in the wax and wood sealer (shellac) then Its a simple wipe the old shellac and wax off with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol,
Then reseal and wax and you are good to go.
15 min job
MMike
I agree
I agree with taking it to a cue repairman.
I have used polishing componds to get the grit out too.
I own a lathe a do most of the cue repair work in my area.
And if I remember right you have or had a cue lathe at one time.
My method works good for me, But I know some cuemakers and cue repairman only use wax.
And I know a few people who doesnt like their shafts sealed or waxed.
If person keeps the dirt and grit out of the wood grain the shaft should never need sanding, and should last decades if not life times.
MMike
I like this approach to the problem the best, but would add that at least once a year I would take the shaft to a friendly neighborhood cue repair person and have he, she, or it, put it on the lathe for a bit of light sanding. This should help to eliminate any flat spots that may have crept in.
And, remember, light sanding (I,000; 1500; and 2000 grit paper) will not significantly reduce the diameter of the cue shaft.
I agree with taking it to a cue repairman.
I have used polishing componds to get the grit out too.
I own a lathe a do most of the cue repair work in my area.
And if I remember right you have or had a cue lathe at one time.
My method works good for me, But I know some cuemakers and cue repairman only use wax.
And I know a few people who doesnt like their shafts sealed or waxed.
If person keeps the dirt and grit out of the wood grain the shaft should never need sanding, and should last decades if not life times.
MMike
I did indeed own a lathe and did cue repair at one time. I also made a few cues, one of which I was able to buy back and am currently playing with.
I always let the customer decide as to whether they wanted sealer, wax, both, or nothing at all. If I knew the shaft owner was abusive, or neglectful, I would recommend sealer and wax.
As for light sanding I never really worried about it. :smile:
Yes keep the alcohol off the tip! I just re tipped for this reason. I was down to the last layer and a half anyway, but it didn't play well at all. This was my own fault for being OCD about a clean ferrule.
When I had it retipped my cue guy used some sort of sealer on it. If feels great, and even smells good. Chalk still sticks to it though. I want to remove the chalk, lose the blue, but still keep the great feel. And keep the potential protection from the sealer. Thoughts?
When I had it retipped my cue guy used some sort of sealer on it. If feels great, and even smells good. Chalk still sticks to it though. I want to remove the chalk, lose the blue, but still keep the great feel. And keep the potential protection from the sealer. Thoughts?