Clear coating an autograph on a butt? DFWl
- Thread starter d.p
- Start date
Is it on the clear? If so it is costly and will probably fail. The clear needs to adhere to the existing clear. Normally this is done with a physical bond obtained by scratching the existing finish up. If you have any questions I would be happy to answer but a job such as this is normally fraught with problems and turned down by many. Good luck.
Don't touch the signature, you will degrade it, don't handle it in any way.
IMHO the best is to just shrink wrap the cue and put it in a display case. If it's truly a potentially valuable autograph, the cue isn't a player anymore. If the playing value of the cue outweighs the potential value of the autograph (very likely IMHO if it's any kind of a decent cue), then the cue is still a player and the autograph will always be at risk anyway.
As stated in the above post, actually getting clear properly done on top of it is difficult.
I am not a cue maker so if any of them have a better idea I am all ears.
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You can get clear protective shields that can go over it. Think cell phone screen saver. Guitar peeps have been doing this for a while. I've never actually tried it so take that for what's it worth but it sounds good in theory.
I've also found that trying to clear coat over the top rarely works out. The clear acts as a solvent and will make the signature run, especially if a Sharpie is used. It is best to use a paint maker for autographs.
I've also found that trying to clear coat over the top rarely works out. The clear acts as a solvent and will make the signature run, especially if a Sharpie is used. It is best to use a paint maker for autographs.
My son has a house cue that was signed by about 20 Pros during a tournament, I asked Mike Webb if we can spray it over to protect it and he said the same thing, the spray would probably mess up the autographs.
I had my first cue that I made autographed by Mike Massey. He used a sharpie. I scuffed around the signature with 320, spun it on my lowest setting and sprayed the cue with 4 layers of Krylon acrylic. Then light scuff with 320 again. Then a few layers of CA thin, then wet sand, buffed and polished as normal.
I had no runs of the sharpie and it's holding up quite nicely!
Nathan
I had no runs of the sharpie and it's holding up quite nicely!
Nathan
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I had my first cue that I made autographed by Mike Massey. He used a sharpie. I scuffed around the signature with 320, spun it on my lowest setting and sprayed the cue with 4 layers of Krylon acrylic. Then light scuff with 320 again. Then a few layers of CA thin, then wet sand, buffed and polished as normal.
I had no runs of the sharpie and it's holding up quite nicely!
Nathan
Looks nice! :thumbup:
I wanted to add to my above statements. If one is going to display it in a case, it should have UV blocking glass. "Museum Glass" would be the best but even a UV blocking film applied to plain glass would be great.
IMHO all cue display cases where "good" cues are displayed should have UV blocking glass. Finish alterations, yellowing, fading, and other issues need to be prevented. UV blocking is essential in preventing such things but on the topic of autographs it needs to be understood that they will fade under exposure to UV.
Climate control, especially temperature and humidity, is an additional concern perhaps, but since I mentioned display I wanted to make sure I mentioned UV protection.
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Yes. It is absolutely possible and I've done it. The issue comes where I do not own the cue and do not want to be responsible for the signature.
You also built up finish over that area by adding the extra layers of finish, so I would think that it would be noticeable. Maybe I'm wrong.
I had my first cue that I made autographed by Mike Massey. He used a sharpie. I scuffed around the signature with 320, spun it on my lowest setting and sprayed the cue with 4 layers of Krylon acrylic. Then light scuff with 320 again. Then a few layers of CA thin, then wet sand, buffed and polished as normal.
I had no runs of the sharpie and it's holding up quite nicely!
Nathan
Looks good......... you have to be sure that the original finish is not acrylic lacquer because if you spray acrylic lacquer over acrylic lacquer, it will melt into the the bottom finish and destroy/smear the signature...
been there and done that
Kim
If you are going to have a cue signed, the best thing to do is scuff the area
on the cue where you want it signed with fine sand paper. I like to use the scotch-brite pads. By doing it this way there is less chance of the signature
getting messed up and the finish over the signature will bond. When I sign my cues,I do it after the first few coats of clear has been sprayed.
Best Wishes,
on the cue where you want it signed with fine sand paper. I like to use the scotch-brite pads. By doing it this way there is less chance of the signature
getting messed up and the finish over the signature will bond. When I sign my cues,I do it after the first few coats of clear has been sprayed.
Best Wishes,
Did not know that....
Def. good to know! :thumbup:
Mine was epoxy for the base, then thin CA...so, luckily I was safe doing it lol
Nathan
Def. good to know! :thumbup:
Mine was epoxy for the base, then thin CA...so, luckily I was safe doing it lol
Nathan