CNC programs
- Thread starter RFisher
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K ,thnx.masonh said:
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masonh said:
Yes, different machines will cut differently to an extent. Most G-code is universal however speeds and feeds will very on each machines capability. The majority of cue builders or even small cnc users will be using Mach3 to cut their parts. As long as they don't change a huge amount of parameters in Mach's setup then G-code can be moved from machine to machine. I would prefer to use the Cad files and generate my own g-code through the cam post so that I can control its feeds, speeds, and enter and exit points. This is where the machine spacific g-code comes from the post. Even for mach3 there are a couple of post in Bobcad. On of them works good and one will cut through your parts on a taig mill. One of these days I will edit the post to get exactly what I want. Oh well. Thanks to Willee for understanding this and not just giving the g-code but providing both code and drawing.
Jim.
I do believe that all your codes should be generated by You. That being said, if the machine and its software are setup correctly, it shouldn't matter where the codes come from. An inch is an inch is an inch, Period.
G00 x1, y1.25 should be the same thing on ANY machine. You should be able to take a g code and run it on 100 different machines and get the exact same part or pocket from all of them. But, generate your own. There are enough good CAD programs that are affordable out there that you can find one that suits your needs and pocket.
JMHO
G00 x1, y1.25 should be the same thing on ANY machine. You should be able to take a g code and run it on 100 different machines and get the exact same part or pocket from all of them. But, generate your own. There are enough good CAD programs that are affordable out there that you can find one that suits your needs and pocket.
JMHO
Sure, you'll cut the same shapes, but a dead nuts fit will be very hard to achieve. If your tolerances are very tight, offsets will often need a bit of tweaking to keep them that way. Even something as minor as changing materials can make a big difference in how things fit. I have my system down pretty well, and I STILL have to cut a practice pocket on almost every new Gcode, to assure a perfect fit.cuebuilder said:
Sheldon said:
Me thinks the word 'perfect' is bantered around here so much it has lost its true meaning.
What has material or even bit sharpness got to do with machine G-code?
Either the G-code works or it does not ... period.
You can hem and haw about this and that, re-engineer to the 100th degree and it is still BS.
IF you have a cnc machine AND you dont have your head up your A$$ THEN you will know if the g-code will work or not.
Forget all this BS about perfect fit because that is exactly what it is ... BS!
Do what the old master cue makers did ... slather black epoxy into the pocket and anything is a "perfectly dead nuts" fit.
Give me a break ... please!.
You can BS some of the newbies but dont waste your time on someone that has actually done some CNC work.
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WilleeCue said:
Willee, I checked out a couple of your tap files. They are straight forward and should work on almost any cnc. No G54 ior other fixture offsets in the lot. Just simple x,y, and z moves. Could you please tell me what post proc. you are using in Bobcad cause the Mach3 one I am using sucks? By the way you where very generous in your gift of code.
Jim.
Sheldon said:For some people (hacks and newbs), "close enough" works just fine.
I can't claim perfection, so that was probably a poor choice of words.... I didn't expect anyone to take it that literally though.
In the world of inlays there are only four kinds of fit.
1. Loose and sloppy - visible gaps between inlay and pocket.
2. Nice and snug - presses in with your thumb - No visible gaps.
3. Tight - need to press it in with a vice or press - No visible gaps.
4. Will not go in even with a hammer.
Of those four I prefer number 2 but number 3 is also "close enough".
I am sure there are cue makers that can break that down into 100 categories factoring in temperature, humidity, and wind direction.
I however, only have the skill and experience to identify those four.
Meanwhile back to the originial intent of this thread.
If anyone wants the CNC files I use with my Unique CueMonster, for whatever reason, just send me your email address.
Be aware that the folder is about 20 megs in size.
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WilleeCue said:
Willee, from what I can tell the speeds ans feeds look good. I can't see any reason that they wouldn't. Lee was going to make another video today on inlays with the taig and Kress. I will ask him to do one of yours. That would mean without modification we will see if it works on a completly different machine. The key here is that I think you both will be using Mach3 correct? If you have time send me the post for bobcad.
Jim.
Mc2 said:
Jim I use DeskNC as it came with the CueMonster.
It is a DOS program and my laptop does not even have windows loaded on it.
It does have some features missing but it works and I just dont want to take the time to switch to something new.
Perhaps next summer I will spend some time and give it a try.
I will send you the program shortly.
I'm new to CNC, I got the first of Lee's machines.
Lee sent me several programs while waiting on the machine. I haven't even looked at one of them. I want to do things my way and I need to learn how to use the Bobcad to do it. I also don't want my designs to be something that everybody else has in their cues.
Of course, diamonds and things like that appear in all cues, but those are also the easiest things to program, so they are a good place to start. I spent hours sharpening up the points on the pockets for a star pattern today. Next time I can probably do it in 10 minutes, but I figured some things out while doing it.
If you have anybody you can call to ask, that's also a huge help. If you get stuck, just pick up the phone and they will guide you through it.
Lee sent me several programs while waiting on the machine. I haven't even looked at one of them. I want to do things my way and I need to learn how to use the Bobcad to do it. I also don't want my designs to be something that everybody else has in their cues.
Of course, diamonds and things like that appear in all cues, but those are also the easiest things to program, so they are a good place to start. I spent hours sharpening up the points on the pockets for a star pattern today. Next time I can probably do it in 10 minutes, but I figured some things out while doing it.
If you have anybody you can call to ask, that's also a huge help. If you get stuck, just pick up the phone and they will guide you through it.
JoeyInCali said:
Nope ... that wont work.
All the CNC files are in a folder.
The link you supplied will only accept a file not a folder full of files.
What is needed is a real ISP email address.
Yahoo and Hotmail limit the file size they allow.
Whoever provides your internet service should also give you an email address without those restrictions.
Winrar or winzip it.WilleeCue said: