Common outside dementions on 7 and 8 foot tables?

Playing surface would be the only thing that would affect the room needed for cue stroke. Wider rails would just give more room for your hand to sit.
what if you're froze to rail? you need the entire width to play the game not just the bed.
 
what if you're froze to rail? you need the entire width to play the game not just the bed.
6” for a backstroke on all 4 sides added to the playing surface is sufficient room, even if frozen to the cushion and shooting perpendicular to the cushion. It makes no difference whether it’s a 4-1/2” rail width on an antique table or an 8” rail width on a Diamond or Gold Crown.
 
Std length cue ive got 17 foot by 13.5foot. I figured a 7 foot table would be best for the space but wanted to see real world outside dimensions. Seems like the billiard suggestions online vary on suggested space.

Thanks
What are the outside dimensions of the table being purchased, then.
Then add minimum 12'' + 58" for the cue to each dimension.
The additional 12'' added to the cue length, allows shooter 6'' of swing when Whitey is frozen to the cushion nose.
 
Like was mentioned before, nose to nose add 58" x 2. If the nose to nose side to side is 50'', then 50+58+58 will give you room to swing it.
 
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Fred, I agree, but ideal for serious play with no absolutely no wall obstruction is significantly different than what will work for 99% of home table recreational play.
Sure, I might agree for someone casual, but if someone comes on the most popular pool-related site, which have a lot of industry insiders, I would expect the answers to always be leaning towards someone who is actually serious about the game.
 
I have an over sized 8 Brunswick in a 14'x24' room. Gotta shorten your stroke only if your right on rail and shooting straight across but that so rarely happens Its really no bother
 
what if you're froze to rail? you need the entire width to play the game not just the bed.
Still don't matter. The cue ball is on the bed, cushion nose to cushion nose is going to be same no matter how wide the rail is.

If nose to nose is 50" it doesn't matter if the rail is 4" or 8" wide its doesn't affect the distance needed for the stroke as the cue stroke still starts at the nose of the cushion where it hits the cue ball.

The more I think of it though 5ft all the way around from the nose of the cushion is borderline as it would only allow for a 2" stroke with a 58" cue 5ft5 or 6ft would be better.
 
... The more I think of it though 5ft all the way around from the nose of the cushion is borderline as it would only allow for a 2" stroke with a 58" cue 5ft5 or 6ft would be better.
And then there are the weird people who use 60" and even 64" cues. Not to mention Earl.;) What's Jayson using these days?
 
As for sizing tables, 5x10, 4.5x9, ... there is some method to the madness.

The nominal dimension for 5x10 and 4.5x9 means that the shorter dimension is the total width of green -- nose-to-nose plus two inches on each side for the cloth on the cushions. Then the length nose-to-nose is twice the width nose-to-nose.

4 1/2 feet = 48+6 = 54 inches = 2 inches of left cushion, 50 inches nose-to-nose, 2 inches of right cushion.

5 feet = 60 inches = 2 + 56 nose-to-nose + 2

If we continue this for eight-foot tables:

4 feet = 48 inches = 2 + 44+ 2 for a nose-to-nose width of 44 inches and length of 88. An "oversize 8" is two inches wider. I think Diamond "8-foot" tables are 45 inches wide.

A seven-foot table would be 38 inches by 76 inches playing area but the actual dimensions vary a lot from what I've heard. Maybe the various manufacturers at least maintain a 2:1 ratio.

The regulation playing surface of a snooker table is not 2:1 and a tolerance of half an inch is allowed in each of the length and width. (2:1 is allowed within the tolerance, but nominal is not 2:1.)
 
Rail width does come in to play. On a shot where the CB is froze to the cushion, my backstroke can extend up to 3 inches further back on a commercial with 7 inch rail caps as opposed to the old standard T-rail 4 inch rail caps. This is simply because I can bridge 3 inches further away from the CB.
 
The more I think of it though 5ft all the way around from the nose of the cushion is borderline as it would only allow for a 2" stroke with a 58" cue 5ft5 or 6ft would be better.
That’s why 5’ clearance from the outside edges of any size table to the walls, on all 4 sides, is ample enough room, even with 5” wide rails.
 
Im.going to put it in my garage. 24lx17w with height clearance more that 17w so plenty of room. Made a offer on the table and it's accepted. Just gotta figure out how to move it. 1.250 1 peice slate
 
For what its worth, I'm currently building a dedicated room for a 9' table (20'x22' building, 19' 4" x 21' 0" inside dimensions).

I'll be positioning the table in one corner, offset by 66" in both directions from the 50"x100" playfield.

I play with a 4" extension on a 58" cue... so this give me 4" backswing if I'm dead on the rail, shooting at 90 degrees. More than enough.
 

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