Connecting Pins- "A"- Joint

[rhncue]

I actually never saw anything wrong with any of the posts. I don't recall any threats being made. Face it, there are plenty of prejudices in this world and we have to learn to deal with it. Every body has prejudices. Nobody likes everyone, except maybe Mike Webb. I would rather it be out in the open so you know what's up with who, instead of hidden where you can get stabbed in the back. Now, at least, you know what you are dealing with with one particular person. I care less what others think of me unless it will actually do me harm.

Dick

 

[Hidy Ho]

It would be nice if the thread came back but definately EDITED. The link that was added in another forum advertising it, didn't help anything.
Just my .02.

I agree .. if moderator see a need to edit the postings, then do it and lock the thread. At least rest of the info is available to the public instead of losing the entire thread.

 

[Craig Fales]

I agree .. if moderator see a need to edit the postings, then do it and lock the thread. At least rest of the info is available to the public instead of losing the entire thread.

I agree

Back on topic...what is considered the best length, short of fully cored, for the wood tenon at the A joint??
________

 

[rhncue]

I agree

Back on topic...what is considered the best length, short of fully cored, for the wood tenon at the A joint??

I core almost all of my cues but I still use a tenon. I make my tenons fit into the handle or prong a minimum of one inch past the deco-rings. I still don't feel comfortable with this type of joinery and have been thinking about changing this area. I have been thinking about putting a 5/8 X 1" tenon on both handle and prong and using a sleeve of phenolic and a stud. I believe the phenolic would have to be much stronger than the normal tenon into wood joint. If cues were always handled as they should be a standard tenon joinery should suffice but as everyone knows, things happen at times that shouldn't. If cars were always driven as they should be they wouldn't have bumpers.

Dick

 

[Tommy-D]

> Was a finite conclusion ever made on whether or not the Radial connector pin needed glue grooves? The only ones I've seen pictures of are in the Atlas catalog,and I didn't see any grooves,just a flat-nosed,centerdrilled Radial,never seen one in person. How big do the grooves need to be,and what about methods of cutting them? Saw blade-type cutter,some type of grinder,or a ball-nosed end mill between centers on a mill? Is tapping the threads not the best option versus cutting them with a thread mill,when using a standard thread pin? Is there even a way to cut internal Radial threads? What about using an Acme threaded rod? How much glue is enough that it never moves,but doesn't blow out the sides from hydraulic pressure. What about G10 or another high-quality synthetic? Tommy D.

 

[JoeyInCali]

> Was a finite conclusion ever made on whether or not the Radial connector pin needed glue grooves? The only ones I've seen pictures of are in the Atlas catalog,and I didn't see any grooves,just a flat-nosed,centerdrilled Radial,never seen one in person. How big do the grooves need to be,and what about methods of cutting them? Saw blade-type cutter,some type of grinder,or a ball-nosed end mill between centers on a mill? Is tapping the threads not the best option versus cutting them with a thread mill,when using a standard thread pin? Is there even a way to cut internal Radial threads? What about using an Acme threaded rod? How much glue is enough that it never moves,but doesn't blow out the sides from hydraulic pressure. What about G10 or another high-quality synthetic? Tommy D.

The radial connecting screws apparently have them.
The joint pins with the barrel do not unless you special order them.
I have G10 radial and they are quite easy to put channels on.
Just a knife and a triangle file.
The metal ones, you can use a disc sander on or broach.
I dunno how to cut radial threads internally. First my lathe has no 7.5/8.5 tpi setting. I don't have the thread mill for it either. If I did, I still won't do it b/c the tap already has the right major and minor ( most of the time ) and radial taps cut nicely.
G10 is definitely an option for those who do not like metals in the A-joint.
It glues very well and bends with wood. I'd want it larger than 3/8 though.

 

[Poulos Cues]

The radial connecting screws apparently have them.
The joint pins with the barrel do not unless you special order them.
I have G10 radial and they are quite easy to put channels on.
Just a knife and a triangle file.
The metal ones, you can use a disc sander on or broach.
I dunno how to cut radial threads internally. First my lathe has no 7.5/8.5 tpi setting. I don't have the thread mill for it either. If I did, I still won't do it b/c the tap already has the right major and minor ( most of the time ) and radial taps cut nicely.
G10 is definitely an option for those who do not like metals in the A-joint.
It glues very well and bends with wood. I'd want it larger than 3/8 though.

Yes, the Radial Pins do have a glue relief slot about a 1/16-3/32 wide that runs the entire length-- and a nice 60 degree center hole in the end if you choose to use it

Special tooling has to be made to cut the Radial thread if you want to mill them. But as Joey stated, your lathe must have the correct threading on it. They are very helpful especially when you want to make custom joint protectors and such. But for a $100-125.00, the undersize tap should work just fine.
I use a 5/8 by 3/4" into the front, sometimes I use a 1". It depends. I also counter bore a smige and add a phenolic ring as to work around the end grain-to-end grain glueing which is where 90% of buzzing can occur. My counterbore also allows for that little bit of glue relief and a better bond.
IMO of course.

Chris

 

[cutter]

Connecting Pin's

Hey Joey, If it's G-10 it's not a radial pin, that's a trademarked name. It's a knock off. And If you're cutting or filing the stuff be really carefull, it's horrible on machinery ways and even worse on your lungs.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Hey Joey, If it's G-10 it's not a radial pin, that's a trademarked name. It's a knock off. And If you're cutting or filing the stuff be really carefull, it's horrible on machinery ways and even worse on your lungs.

Yes, it's a knock-off but the tap matches it fine.
Thnx for the health warning.