Consistant color?

R

Raecarmia

"Only the finest"
Silver Member
Hello everyone- I am seeking advice from anyone who has had the privilege of working with the "natural" colored linen based material used for making joint and/or butts (which is almost all cue makers..lol). I have used this material many times and find the consistency of the color to vary widely. I have tried staining with various products and still do not find a good results. Does anyone know a proven method to get a consistent color or am I spinning my wheels and this is just a by-product of the way the stuff is made?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

and Respectively submitted,

Raecarmia
 
It helps alot to always cut the same cue out of the same rod. They dye these rods in batches. And each batch may differ a little in color throwing your match off. This will help you in really matching your joint up much closer.
Sealing the joints and clearing them all at the same time helps also. They are very light sensitive , and if you expose one to light and not the other , this will lighten or darker the pieces depending on light source.
Hope This helps,
Jim Lee
 
Raecarmia said:
Hello everyone- I am seeking advice from anyone who has had the privilege of working with the "natural" colored linen based material used for making joint and/or butts (which is almost all cue makers..lol). I have used this material many times and find the consistency of the color to vary widely. I have tried staining with various products and still do not find a good results. Does anyone know a proven method to get a consistent color or am I spinning my wheels and this is just a by-product of the way the stuff is made?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

and Respectively submitted,

Raecarmia
Click to expand...


In addition to J/D's post you can always use a UV bulb and tan the stock yourself so that everyone of your rods is consistant in hue...

I know this process works... you can hang a light and rotate the stock yourself, use a tanning bed or spin it at a low speed... but you will have to toy around with how long you tan it for to get the desired results, but atleast this way all your material is consistant.

Just a suggestion !



- Eddie Wheat
 
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I didn't know this stuff was realy light sensitive thanks for the info..

Craig
 
I stopped using the Natural color in rings and on shaft collars because it's easy to match them up when building the cue, but down the road if somebody wants a new shaft made, they are going to have problems.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I stopped using the Natural color in rings and on shaft collars because it's easy to match them up when building the cue, but down the road if somebody wants a new shaft made, they are going to have problems.
Click to expand...
That's why I keep a ton of spare from the same rods.
Or we could all do it Meucci way.
Plastic.:eek:
 
Thanks for the info-

Thanks everyone for the information- I will experiment around with the UV light. I was hoping there would be a simpler solution-lol don't we all! I have had no luck with any stains....so I will give the lights a try.



Thanks again.

Respectfully submitted

Raecarmia
 
jerry rauenzahn and i had a long conversation about this. he says its impossible to darken it up. he tried stains oils sealers light ect... nothing works but time. hes been using thats tuff for 35 years and cant find a way. even if you darken it once you cut it its light again underneath. i have a few pieces one is very very hard. the other os dark but no match. it would be odd in the same cue. you mush cut from the same piece
 
dave sutton said:
jerry rauenzahn and i had a long conversation about this. he says its impossible to darken it up. he tried stains oils sealers light ect... nothing works but time. hes been using thats tuff for 35 years and cant find a way. even if you darken it once you cut it its light again underneath. i have a few pieces one is very very hard. the other os dark but no match. it would be odd in the same cue. you mush cut from the same piece
Click to expand...



Yes, the unfortunate aspect of the lightening process with UV bulbs is that you have to turn the stock down within a few thousands of its respected size before UV exposure in order to maintain the darkening of the material....

This is fine if you have set diameter for your butt sizes for building cues, but if you are utilizing the material for repairs (i.e. butt-plate replacement) then there is no way you will be able to prep it ahead of time...

Suggestion.... taping off the butt-sleeve as well as the rest of the cue after installing the butt-plate and then subjecting the finished butt-plate to the UV bulb until desired shade is acheived, may be your only other option if you are using it for repairs...

As I said before, I know this works.... I just didn't get the exact process details but have seen the before and after results !


- Eddie Wheat
 
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