Convert Radial Shaft To 5/16-14

[HawaiianEye]

Aloha gentlemen,

How hard is it to convert a shaft that is bored for a radial pin to a compression piloted 5/16-14 with insert? I assume the joint collar would have to come off in order to do this. The shaft is a bit longer than 29", so there is about an inch of playroom. I have the shaft in the closet, so I can give measurements, if needed.

Is this a simple procedure?

I'd like to match the shaft up with an old Titlist conversion butt that I have that has a stainless steel joint..

Thanks in advance for any information.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Not that hard.
Joint collar doesn't have to come off.
Just bore it to 3/8. Insert should be 7/16 OD.
Thread for the insert. You will need the tap. Epoxy.
The hole you have now is kinda deep.
Around 2 inches or so. I always hated that with radial screws.
It's up to the maker if he want to reduce the depth of that hole.

I like using .550" phenolic to house the brass insert too.
The fine threads of the brass insert can be brutal on wood.

 

[HawaiianEye]

Not that hard.
Joint collar doesn't have to come off.
Just bore it to 3/8. Insert should be 7/16 OD.
Thread for the insert. You will need the tap. Epoxy.
The hole you have now is kinda deep.
Around 2 inches or so. I always hated that with radial screws.
It's up to the maker if he want to reduce the depth of that hole.

I like using .550" phenolic to house the brass insert too.
The fine threads of the brass insert can be brutal on wood.

Thanks Joey,

If the joint collar doesn't have to come off or be shortened, how is the wood "pilot" that protrudes down into the butt joint created?

I'm wanting the shaft to have the wood pilot around the bottom of the insert that will compress to fit the butt inside joint diameter.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Thanks Joey,

If the joint collar doesn't have to come off or be shortened, how is the wood "pilot" that protrudes down into the butt joint created?

I'm wanting the shaft to have the wood pilot around the bottom of the insert that will compress to fit the butt inside joint diameter.

You can plug up the whole with a 7/16 diam. maple with an oversized top.
The collar should have a 5/8 hole so the tenon is still around 5/8.

 

[Kim Bye]

As Joey says, it`s a fairly quick job. Just need to bore out to 23/64" or 25/64" depending on if you use 7/16-14 or 7/16-20 inserts. (that`s if you don`t mind the extra depth of the hole left from the Radial threads, usually 2.3" deep)
I charge less for conversions like this than a regular plug and thread job.

 

[Michael Webb]

Thanks Joey,

If the joint collar doesn't have to come off or be shortened, how is the wood "pilot" that protrudes down into the butt joint created?

I'm wanting the shaft to have the wood pilot around the bottom of the insert that will compress to fit the butt inside joint diameter.

What are you fitting this too?
Some cues compress at .500
Schon's .530

 

[HawaiianEye]

As Joey says, it`s a fairly quick job. Just need to bore out to 23/64" or 25/64" depending on if you use 7/16-14 or 7/16-20 inserts. (that`s if you don`t mind the extra depth of the hole left from the Radial threads, usually 2.3" deep)
I charge less for conversions like this than a regular plug and thread job.

I measured the hole depth. It is about 2 1/4".

What difference will it make if the hole isn't completely filled up by the insert for the new pin type (the gap between the top of the insert and the bottom of the hole)? Will the cue have a different "hit", "sound", etc?

 

[Kim Bye]

I measured the hole depth. It is about 2 1/4".

What difference will it make if the hole isn't completely filled up by the insert for the new pin type (the gap between the top of the insert and the bottom of the hole)? Will the cue have a different "hit", "sound", etc?

I don`t really think it makes a huge difference. My customers always want repairs done yesterday, so often they are happy with the quicker turnaround if I just bore, ream and thread so i can epoxy in the insert, but I always ask my customers, If they are happy with the extra cost and time. I`ll gladly plug the hole first. Some customers are more anal than others :wink:

 

[HawaiianEye]

I don`t really think it makes a huge difference. My customers always want repairs done yesterday, so often they are happy with the quicker turnaround if I just bore, ream and thread so i can epoxy in the insert, but I always ask my customers, If they are happy with the extra cost and time. I`ll gladly plug the hole first. Some customers are more anal than others :wink:

What's the difference in cost? Double? More than double?

 

[JoeyInCali]

I don`t really think it makes a huge difference. My customers always want repairs done yesterday, so often they are happy with the quicker turnaround if I just bore, ream and thread so i can epoxy in the insert, but I always ask my customers, If they are happy with the extra cost and time. I`ll gladly plug the hole first. Some customers are more anal than others :wink:

Easy fix.
Just drill it 9mm by yay deep.
Plug up the hole just enough for the insert to butt to that plug later.
It ain't moving after that .

 

[HawaiianEye]

What are you fitting this too?
Some cues compress at .500
Schon's .530

Aloha Mike,

I didn't see your question.

I have a Pancerny Titlist conversion and I think the joint size is about .835. I'm not sure what the inside diameter of the butt joint is. I'll measure the pilot with my calipers tomorrow.

I have two shafts for the cue and the wood pilots fits super-tight into the hole and that's the way I like it.

 

[Michael Webb]

Aloha Mike,

I didn't see your question.

I have a Pancerny Titlist conversion and I think the joint size is about .835. I'm not sure what the inside diameter of the butt joint is. I'll measure the pilot with my calipers tomorrow.

I have two shafts for the cue and the wood pilots fits super-tight into the hole and that's the way I like it.

Good Morning
I was thinking I was the only one who read your post. Lmao
I would suggest you plug the entire hole at least 10 or 20 thousanths larger than the compression fit you need and work from there. I was pretty sure you were able to measure it. Usually compression fits rely on the accuracy of the i.d. of the pilot and joint screw combined. Mr. Pancerny does great work so I would guess it's spot on rolling the cue.