Converting a Break to a Jump/Break

itmc80

itmc80

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,

I was curious to know how difficult it would be to convert a break cue that I have now into a j/b?

Thanks,
Ian
 
itmc80 said:
Hi,

I was curious to know how difficult it would be to convert a break cue that I have now into a j/b?

Thanks,
Ian
Click to expand...

Ian, it not that difficult to do!!! however it can be costly, and it may not be worth the expense. First you would have to decide the length that you want in the jump section. The minimum requirement for professional use is 41 inches. Then the cue will be cut and a joint will be added, and the cues butt will have to be refinished in most cases. If the cue has a wrap it will also have to be re-wrapped, now I normally would also recommend an entire refinish of the cue in most cases.

So with the addition of the joint I would charge $60, and for the refinish I would charge an additional $115, only because of the other work being completed. Normally, I charge $125 for a refinish alone.
 
itmc80 said:
Hi,

I was curious to know how difficult it would be to convert a break cue that I have now into a j/b?

Thanks,
Ian
Click to expand...

Since you say you have a Carolina break Q, why don't you give THEM a call. I'm sure they can tell you. I will say, that the main obstical would be that just above the wrap area, there usually is a steel screw joining the handle area, to the forearm. That's right where the Q will have to be cut. That will leave 1/2 of the screw in each section. That might be a BIG problem. If the 2 sections are joined with a threaded wooden tenon, it will be a lot easier. Either way it sounds like a problem, just waiting to happen for whoever trys to do the job...JER
 
Thanks for the responses. I was entertaining the idea of getting a jump/break or just a jump cue. I really would not want to spend a lot of money to get it converted if it even can be.
 
Tap tap tap...

Klopek said:
Would probably be cheaper to buy a dedicated jump cue and upgrade your case, (if you don't already have the room).

J/B cues are great if you want to travel light, but IMO, a cue designed to do one thing will always do that job better than a cue that's designed to do two things.

I know a lot of people who own or have owned a J/B and now want to get a dedicated breaker, myself included.
Click to expand...

This is the best solution.
 
Klopek said:
Would probably be cheaper to buy a dedicated jump cue and upgrade your case, (if you don't already have the room).

J/B cues are great if you want to travel light, but IMO, a cue designed to do one thing will always do that job better than a cue that's designed to do two things.

I know a lot of people who own or have owned a J/B and now want to get a dedicated breaker, myself included.
Click to expand...


Absolutely! I have yet to see the jump portion of any high end J/B cue that can out perform a cheap $60 Lucasi jump cue.
 
masonh said:
have you tried an X-breaker.way better jumpers than Lucasi.
Click to expand...


Yes, it didn't impress me. I can get over an entire ball from a chalk width's distance with my buddy's Lucasi, I don't really see how you can improve on that. Just my opinion.
 
manwon said:
Ian, it not that difficult to do!!! however it can be costly, and it may not be worth the expense. First you would have to decide the length that you want in the jump section. The minimum requirement for professional use is 41 inches. Then the cue will be cut and a joint will be added, and the cues butt will have to be refinished in most cases. If the cue has a wrap it will also have to be re-wrapped, now I normally would also recommend an entire refinish of the cue in most cases.

So with the addition of the joint I would charge $60, and for the refinish I would charge an additional $115, only because of the other work being completed. Normally, I charge $125 for a refinish alone.
Click to expand...

I understand the minuimun length to be 40 inches?

Where did you get your information??

Arnot
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Since you say you have a Carolina break Q, why don't you give THEM a call. I'm sure they can tell you. I will say, that the main obstical would be that just above the wrap area, there usually is a steel screw joining the handle area, to the forearm. That's right where the Q will have to be cut. That will leave 1/2 of the screw in each section. That might be a BIG problem. If the 2 sections are joined with a threaded wooden tenon, it will be a lot easier. Either way it sounds like a problem, just waiting to happen for whoever trys to do the job...JER
Click to expand...




Yep, that pretty much sums it up. I'd stay away from steel in the "A" joint for sure, even though they may can be backed out and cored with wood. Infact I don't really care to make a jump/break from a another cue, and would rather build from scratch, but that's just me. I really would prefer to make a break cue for breaking, and a seperate jump cue for jumping as I feel that offers the best performance.

Greg
 
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