Core' Question

[swami4u]

Simple:

When you core a cue, do you cut the bore hole when the wood is still square,
or do you bore the holes for the core when the cue is close to taper time?
I would GUESS' that it is more stable to bore the hole into a larger piece of wood (square)
then turn down the wood to cue size, with the core installed?

Thanks

 

[JoeyInCali]

I bore them while they're still trees.
That way when the miller cuts them, they use those holes as centers.
They charge me $20 per bf extra but it's all worth it.

Ok, I core forearms at .950 up to 1.150 ( 12.350 long ).
1.150 to 1.325 handles.

 

[Mc2]

Simple:

When you core a cue, do you cut the bore hole when the wood is still square,
or do you bore the holes for the core when the cue is close to taper time?
I would GUESS' that it is more stable to bore the hole into a larger piece of wood (square)
then turn down the wood to cue size, with the core installed?

Thanks

Actually it can be done both ways. I visited an instament factory where they bored the hole into African Blackwood while it was square. Then they would turn the block down concentric to the hole. I would prefer to have my stock round and way oversized to core as the drill will want to wonder. Once you glue in the core you can turn wood back on center using the core. Let me tell you something that will save alot of time. Do not forget to put tape over your core's center holes. This sounds easy to remember but it aint.

By the way every thing you need to know about coring is in a video from Cue Components or Chris Hightower. They are both great to watch.

Jim.

 

[swami4u]

I bore them while they're still trees.
That way when the miller cuts them, they use those holes as centers.
They charge me $20 per bf extra but it's all worth it.

Ok, I core forearms at .950 up to 1.150 ( 12.350 long ).
1.150 to 1.325 handles.

I called the local lumber yard, and was told they didn't have the proper equipment to bore the tree after falling.
I was thinking about looking for some old maple trees that have rotted from the inside though! I would call that a 'green Eco friendly' boring technique. Just let the bugs do all the work, el' natural'

Thanks for the other info.

 

[swami4u]

Actually it can be done both ways. I visited an instament factory where they bored the hole into African Blackwood while it was square. Then they would turn the block down concentric to the hole. I would prefer to have my stock round and way oversized to core as the drill will want to wonder. Once you glue in the core you can turn wood back on center using the core. Let me tell you something that will save alot of time. Do not forget to put tape over your core's center holes. This sounds easy to remember but it aint.

By the way every thing you need to know about coring is in a video from Cue Components or Chris Hightower. They are both great to watch.

Jim.

Interesting, after thinking it over a bunch, i would think that using a square
would be the best way. You have much more 'support' for the bore hole with the thicker wood, and i would think over the curing time, allot of stress would be eliminated out of the core, and give a better success rate when turning it down. I guess it boils down to one of those things you need to try both ways a few times to get a feel for it. Thanks for your opinions, they are all appreciated.


Lost me on the reason to tape over the core center holes?

 

[poolstixx]

Tape over center holes.

You will want to put tape over your center holes so when you glue the wood dowell into the bored forearm or handle you dont fill it up with glue.

Jason
Mowdy Custom Cues

 

[Mc2]

Interesting, after thinking it over a bunch, i would think that using a square
would be the best way. You have much more 'support' for the bore hole with the thicker wood, and i would think over the curing time, allot of stress would be eliminated out of the core, and give a better success rate when turning it down. I guess it boils down to one of those things you need to try both ways a few times to get a feel for it. Thanks for your opinions, they are all appreciated.



Lost me on the reason to tape over the core center holes?

Oh, don't worry the holes thing will come up. If you decide to drill the core hole while wood is still square, you will want a 4 jaw chuck. Also it will be hard to support the back end of the wood if you wanted to go that route.

If things don't work out you may want the videos. They will save you time and money. Though you will learn alot by trial and error.

Good luck, Jim.

 

[conetip]

I called the local lumber yard, and was told they didn't have the proper equipment to bore the tree after falling.
I was thinking about looking for some old maple trees that have rotted from the inside though! I would call that a 'green Eco friendly' boring technique. Just let the bugs do all the work, el' natural'

Thanks for the other info.

Thats how the Australian Aboriginies get the holes for the didgeridoo's.The termites eat away all the center of the tree.
Neil

 

[JoseV]

when i bought my cue i knew nothing about core's mine is a full core from joint to butt what does that mean and are there diffrent type of cores ?

 

[rhncue]

when i bought my cue i knew nothing about core's mine is a full core from joint to butt what does that mean and are there diffrent type of cores ?

Most modern cues are a combination of three major pieces plus the shaft. The pieces are the fore arm, the handle and the butt collar. Often, the handle wood is made of straight grain Maple and runs from the fore arm to the bumper of the cue. The fore arm is usually attache just in front of the wrap area and this is called the A-joint as it is the first joint utilized when constructing a cue. Behind the wrap area a tenon is cut or spliced onto the handle and the butt collar is installed onto this. Now, some cue makers are coring the forearms of their cues for a number of reasons some of which are additional strength, a better hit, to change the balance point, for a different weight and of coarse, for stability. This core usually goes from the joint and continues into the front of the handle. On a cue with a full core, the core instead of just being in the fore arm is a 29" long dowel and all of the cues components are bored and slid into place on this 29" core. As far as different cores the answer is yes. Some use different woods for different weight and balance points and different size dowels are used such as 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 and such.

Dick

 

[rhncue]

I bore almost every cue that I build and I start with a round dowel at about 1.3". I bore with a gun drill and it drills very accurately seldom being off by more than .005 or .010 or so when exiting the material. I know this as once I glue in my core, which already has centers of coarse, and then later go to turn between center, the cored unit turns almost perfectly. I have cored fore arms that were already tapered down to .900 at the shaft end with no problems and I core all with a .750 gun drill. If You have an accurate start hole for the drill it will run straight if your set-up is correct. Usually troubles only occur when the drill is not properly aligned with the material needing bored.

Dick

 

[JoseV]

Most modern cues are a combination of three major pieces plus the shaft. The pieces are the fore arm, the handle and the butt collar. Often, the handle wood is made of straight grain Maple and runs from the fore arm to the bumper of the cue. The fore arm is usually attache just in front of the wrap area and this is called the A-joint as it is the first joint utilized when constructing a cue. Behind the wrap area a tenon is cut or spliced onto the handle and the butt collar is installed onto this. Now, some cue makers are coring the forearms of their cues for a number of reasons some of which are additional strength, a better hit, to change the balance point, for a different weight and of coarse, for stability. This core usually goes from the joint and continues into the front of the handle. On a cue with a full core, the core instead of just being in the fore arm is a 29" long dowel and all of the cues components are bored and slid into place on this 29" core. As far as different cores the answer is yes. Some use different woods for different weight and balance points and different size dowels are used such as 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 and such.

Dick

Thank you for he info Dick, So a full core is not such a bad thing then ? Im just asking becuse its new to and i love hearing about things i never new before.