Cored verses Un-cored Cues

Cored allows you to have an 18oz all ebony cue. It also may help keep the cue straighter longer. It also allows makers to pretty much get all of their cues to hit very close to the same. Thats about it as far as advantages.
 
It also allows the use of very pretty, highly-figured woods that wouldn't be stable enough to use in solid form. Burls of all types and highly figured birds-eye maple come to mind right off.
 
cuetique said:
It also allows the use of very pretty, highly-figured woods that wouldn't be stable enough to use in solid form. Burls of all types and highly figured birds-eye maple come to mind right off.
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True as well. Good point.;)
 
Is there any affect on the resonance and feedback of a cue if it's cored? Or will it just feel like whatever wood it is cored with?
 
roddyc said:
Is there any affect on the resonance and feedback of a cue if it's cored? Or will it just feel like whatever wood it is cored with?
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Too many variables. If cored with maple...it should hit like maple. But with some of the construction techniques these days by so many different makers...its hard to say. A lot depends if it is screwed together by metal, wood threaded tenon, etc. I hate to say it..but when you finally OWN that ultra sweet hittin' cue....don't sell it.;) You could look for a long time & exhaust a lot of $$$$. I play with a plastic cored sneakie right now, 314, Grice & Sniper...the Pope may not talk me out of it.;) :D :D
 
Varney Cues said:
Too many variables. If cored with maple...it should hit like maple. But with some of the construction techniques these days by so many different makers...its hard to say. A lot depends if it is screwed together by metal, wood threaded tenon, etc. I hate to say it..but when you finally OWN that ultra sweet hittin' cue....don't sell it.;) You could look for a long time & exhaust a lot of $$$$. I play with a plastic cored sneakie right now, 314, Grice & Sniper...the Pope may not talk me out of it.;) :D :D
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Do you make your own blanks? If so, do you make them cored or not cored? If cored, what would be the deciding factor?

Also, I've seen your sneaky petes but wanted to know if you make any veneered cues?
 
roddyc said:
Is there any affect on the resonance and feedback of a cue if it's cored? Or will it just feel like whatever wood it is cored with?
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The cue would be as good as the wood used to core it.
Cored forearms are usually more stable but if the glue used is of poor quality, it might rattle.
There is also a difference between cored-thru forearm and doweled forearms.
One can dowel 2-5 inches at the top and bottom of the forearms also.
 
Jazz said:
Do you make your own blanks? If so, do you make them cored or not cored? If cored, what would be the deciding factor?

Also, I've seen your sneaky petes but wanted to know if you make any veneered cues?
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Use the search function. I don't usually answer questions from posters who've just called me names recently in another thread. I have no desire to sell you a cue Jazz...so it's really none of your business.
 
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You must be talking about a Ebony forearm and butt with a maple handle that is wrapped. I shoot with a ALL Ebony cue that I built, Ebony handle also, and it weights in at a little over 22 OZ. with no weight bolt. It is one of the most solid, not stiff, hitting cues that I have ever played with. Their is virtually zero vibration when you hit the cue ball.
Chris
 
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