Coring Forearms

  • Thread starter Thread starter Arnot Wadsworth
  • Start date Start date
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I wasn't going to get involved in this thread,but here goes. I too have been coring SOME of my forearms, for about 2 years. BUT I do mine a little differently. I bore a 3/4" diameter -6" long hole, in the big end of the forearm & a 5/8" diameter hole - 3" long hole, in the joint end. It's worked great for me...JER
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Is this one long two step hole, or two holes that are on each end of the work piece?
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
2 HOLES...JER
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Years ago I smashed a McDermott over a table. I later took what was left and band sawed it in half. I was surprised to find they had a tenon that went about 8 inches into the nose of the cue. By definitions this was a partialy cored cue and that was 25 years ago. somewhat like you are doing.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I wasn't going to get involved in this thread,but here goes. I too have been coring SOME of my forearms, for about 2 years. BUT I do mine a little differently. I bore a 3/4" diameter -6" long hole, in the big end of the forearm & a 5/8" diameter hole - 3" long hole, in the joint end. It's worked great for me...JER
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I also use this method... sometimes even using a different type of wood other than maple in the joint end to change the hit

Hadj
 
hadjcues said:
I also use this method... sometimes even using a different type of wood other than maple in the joint end to change the hit

Hadj
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You're giving too much info away for free bud. :D
 
hadjcues said:
disregard my post... I lack sleep... oh btw on the shafts joint end I... zzzzzzzz :o :D
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LOL, oh well Guess I better not tell you guys the trick I just learned for boring dead nut holes then :rolleyes: What is sleep anyway :D Not too familiar with It myself lately.
 
It has become obvious to me that all the methods being discussed can be used to make a structuraly sound cue but there is still one angle that has not been addressed, how do all these methods change the overall hit? A forearm which has been dowelled from each side now has created two extra blind holes where end grain butts up to endgrain, is this a good thing? A cored forearm has alot of glue holding things together and is probably alot stiffer.These procedures all will have an effect on resonants. Is a good cue not like a tuning fork? where if you hit a ball with just the right weight it will resonate a certain note and provide you with a lively feedbalk. Do these procedures help or hinder this feedbalk? Anyone have any answers they would like to share.
 
I think coring just add to your options for wood combonations. If you have ever worked with impregnated wildwood, snakewood, iron wood, Pink ivory, Thuya and Ambronia burl. I have done all of the above except the Snakewood. I core them because they are either to heavy, brittle or both. I built a cue from impregnated wood about 6 years ago. It looked great but cracked the first day I hit with it, just to hard and brittle. I also like the combonation of Pink ivory with Snakewood, Just to much weight and to front heavy. Just my opinion. A lot of cuemakers also core so the hit of their cues stays close as far as repeatability.
 
Canadian cue said:
Is a good cue not like a tuning fork? where if you hit a ball with just the right weight it will resonate a certain note and provide you with a lively feedbalk.
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That is one point Burton Spain offered, in promoting full splices. He said the veneers added spine also. I'd love to see what he would have done, if he'd been given more time.

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
That is one point Burton Spain offered, in promoting full splices. He said the veneers added spine also. I'd love to see what he would have done, if he'd been given more time.

Tracy
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Amen to that.

Jon
 
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