coring the shaft?

The8reader

does this help! haha
Silver Member
Can u core out a shaft and add a denser wood to the inside? Example: core a maple shaft and add purpleheart to it. Wouldbthus help in a break/jump cue? Any effects that would make it not sork well? Thanx I. Advance
 
I don't see an advantage to all that work......... if it was effective......... don't you think someone would have already done it????

Kim
 
I don't see an advantage to all that work......... if it was effective......... don't you think someone would have already done it????

Kim

Has anyone? I thought it be a easy way to get some exrta weight into a jump break shaft. Or keep shafts straight. Dosent zome cutecs core and fill with a hard plastic?
 
Coring a shaft to help keep it straight isn't practical and would be counterproductive. Installing what would essentially be a deep insert into the base of the shaft can be done to add a little weight.
 
no reason why it wouldn't work, but what goal is this attempting to achieve?

Not sure what their purpose is, or exactly what it is they core with, but there are no negatives that I can find with the finished product. Like anything else, it's not what you do but rather how well you do it.

Mezz is the only manufacturer I have seen, custom or production, that consistently has pristine shaft wood. We all know how hard it is to find a consistent source for pristine wood, and how expensive it can be. To find it at production cue quantities would be unheard of, but somehow Mezz has a connection. And I am certain it's not cheap. Once set up to core, it would be relatively cheap and quick to core a shaft dowel before tapering. Not only would it stiffen the shaft for a firm hit even with thinner diameters, but it would significantly increase stability. Coring shafts doesn't seem like a bad idea to me, especially if you are paying top dollar for the best wood money can buy, and want it to stay straight as you ship cues to every climate on the planet. Now this is only speculation, but I would assume Mezz's reason for coring shafts is to keep them straight and stable, not to mention the ability to cut them down to size far more rapidly than if not cored. Keep in mind the goal is to produce as many cues as possible, as fast as possible, while maintaining a high level of quality & dependability. Again, that's only speculation.
 
Hi, not a cuemaker, but these are the break shafts galipeau mentioned made by Mezz. Borrowed the pics from the internet :thumbup:



I have both of them. The ash cored bought in 2010 and the masarunba cored recently bought. The one with ash wood core did develop a bad warp after few months but not sure why.
They both do break harder than the normal deep impact shaft.:thumbup:
 
Hi, not a cuemaker, but these are the break shafts galipeau mentioned made by Mezz. Borrowed the pics from the internet :thumbup:

I have both of them. The ash cored bought in 2010 and the masarunba cored recently bought. The one with ash wood core did develop a bad warp after few months but not sure why.
They both do break harder than the normal deep impact shaft.:thumbup:

I am very intrigued by their choice of massanranduba as a coring material. That wood is what violin bow makers call "brazilwood" within the industry. It has historically been used in cheap trade bows as a substitute for pernambuco wood. It had many of the desirable properties of pernambuco (high density, stiffness, resilience, resonance, etc.) but is a rather homely looking wood by comparison.

I know that a few makers here have used pernambuco in cues with pleasing results. I wonder how this wood might be used as a core wood in butt sections. It is certainly readily available, whereas pernambuco is almost unobtainable these days.
 
I really like this idea for a break shaft. I am in the market for a break shaft like this but need it made to fit my custom cue I have. If anyone out their can do this please let me know..
 
I am very intrigued by their choice of massanranduba as a coring material. That wood is what violin bow makers call "brazilwood" within the industry. It has historically been used in cheap trade bows as a substitute for pernambuco wood. It had many of the desirable properties of pernambuco (high density, stiffness, resilience, resonance, etc.) but is a rather homely looking wood by comparison.

I know that a few makers here have used pernambuco in cues with pleasing results. I wonder how this wood might be used as a core wood in butt sections. It is certainly readily available, whereas pernambuco is almost unobtainable these days.

Not really sure about if it can be used as a core wood for the butt section of a cue. I like to know from a cuemaker's point of view too. All I know is the shaft Pro H shaft that I have weighs at 5.44 oz. Appreciate the information of the wood you gave :thumbup:
 
Not really sure about if it can be used as a core wood for the butt section of a cue. I like to know from a cuemaker's point of view too. All I know is the shaft Pro H shaft that I have weighs at 5.44 oz. Appreciate the information of the wood you gave :thumbup:

If that wood is as dense and as resonant as pernambuco, it'd be great for butt cores ( on light woods ) .
I do have a few pernambucos with some curls. They are actually tougher to find than Braz Rosewood, so they are considered premium woods imo.
Mediocre looking pernams pop up on ebay once in a while . But, they're not all that attractive.
 
I'm glad you posted that pic L.C.Hui! I believe, and have mentioned here before, that Massaranduba has been used in house cues a fair amount. I have a little of it and it is the spitting image of some house cues I run across from time to time. I think a lot of house cues that people speculate were made of the "stand by guess" brazilian cherry are Massaranduba.
 
If that wood is as dense and as resonant as pernambuco, it'd be great for butt cores ( on light woods ) .
I do have a few pernambucos with some curls. They are actually tougher to find than Braz Rosewood, so they are considered premium woods imo.
Mediocre looking pernams pop up on ebay once in a while . But, they're not all that attractive.

It is not as resonant as pernambuco.
 
I really like this idea for a break shaft. I am in the market for a break shaft like this but need it made to fit my custom cue I have. If anyone out their can do this please let me know..

If noone would build it for you maybe you can talk to a Mezz dealer near you about getting one of the shafts with the joint configuration you want. Both the DI pro shafts are already pricey though. Not sure if it would break good that way but you can try. Hope this helps.

If that wood is as dense and as resonant as pernambuco, it'd be great for butt cores ( on light woods ) .
I do have a few pernambucos with some curls. They are actually tougher to find than Braz Rosewood, so they are considered premium woods imo.
Mediocre looking pernams pop up on ebay once in a while . But, they're not all that attractive.

Thanks for chimming in Joey! You know Im very patient :grin:

I'm glad you posted that pic L.C.Hui! I believe, and have mentioned here before, that Massaranduba has been used in house cues a fair amount. I have a little of it and it is the spitting image of some house cues I run across from time to time. I think a lot of house cues that people speculate were made of the "stand by guess" brazilian cherry are Massaranduba.

Thanks! Im glad The8reader started the thread too. If not I wouldnt have posted the picture and got so many info. I hope this thread helps with his question.
 
It is not as resonant as pernambuco.

In general that is probably correct, but the resonance of pernambuco is quite variable. Some sticks seem dead when struck, others have two distinct tap tones that interfere with each other and kill the resonance entirely.

A guy I went to bow making school with did the smart thing right after we were done. There was a man in Cali named Al Rubicek who had gone to Brazil when the wood could still be taken out in plank form and brought back thousands of board feet of the stuff. This was back in the late 70s, early 80s. As far as anybody knew, Al was the only guy in the states who had the wood in large quantities.

Michael went to Al's place and spent two weeks bouncing planks off concrete and listening to the tone, as well as looking at them for grain and color, weighing them, computing density, etc. He told me there was an enormous difference between planks that otherwise looked alike and had similar densities. He took only the best of the best.

He bought about $20K worth and sent it by freight back to New York where he had it resawn into usable boards. Total yield was only about 2 stickered pallets worth of bow wood - $10K/pallet. He showed me the wood and it was some of the nicest I have ever seen, dead even with the best stuff I've seen in old French master bows. Best part was, every board I tested rang like a bell when I held them at the nodal point and rapped them with my knuckles.

He went on to make some of the best playing and sounding bows out there, and I used up my available stock until I ran out and stopped making them 20 years ago. The figured stuff may be nice for cues, but here's a few pics of the stuff that gives bow makers wet dreams.

http://michaelyeats.com/

:smile:
 
In general that is probably correct, but the resonance of pernambuco is quite variable. Some sticks seem dead when struck, others have two distinct tap tones that interfere with each other and kill the resonance entirely.

A guy I went to bow making school with did the smart thing right after we were done. There was a man in Cali named Al Rubicek who had gone to Brazil when the wood could still be taken out in plank form and brought back thousands of board feet of the stuff. This was back in the late 70s, early 80s. As far as anybody knew, Al was the only guy in the states who had the wood in large quantities.

Michael went to Al's place and spent two weeks bouncing planks off concrete and listening to the tone, as well as looking at them for grain and color, weighing them, computing density, etc. He told me there was an enormous difference between planks that otherwise looked alike and had similar densities. He took only the best of the best.

He bought about $20K worth and sent it by freight back to New York where he had it resawn into usable boards. Total yield was only about 2 stickered pallets worth of bow wood - $10K/pallet. He showed me the wood and it was some of the nicest I have ever seen, dead even with the best stuff I've seen in old French master bows. Best part was, every board I tested rang like a bell when I held them at the nodal point and rapped them with my knuckles.

He went on to make some of the best playing and sounding bows out there, and I used up my available stock until I ran out and stopped making them 20 years ago. The figured stuff may be nice for cues, but here's a few pics of the stuff that gives bow makers wet dreams.

http://michaelyeats.com/

:smile:

Cool story!
 
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