coring

trinacria

trinacria

in efren we trust
Silver Member
i dont know if its a trade secret or what, but can someone show pics of coring progress. not a cuemaker, just want to know what everyone is talking about. also, is the forearm alone cored? and why?
 
Forearms are cored to change the weight or stabilze a wood that might normally warp. Handles are also cored for the same reasons.
 
trinacria said:
ty, but how do you fill it, to you thread it and screw the coring wood in, glue it?
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It's not a sloppy fit between the core and the cored piece, almost snug. The epoxy/glue will act as a lube to allow for a tighter fit. Just don't tell people your putting lube on your wood.
 
Hits 'em Hard said:
It's not a sloppy fit between the core and the cored piece, almost snug. The epoxy/glue will act as a lube to allow for a tighter fit. Just don't tell people your putting lube on your wood.
Click to expand...

And your wood needs it or it'll be crooked.
 
After coring the piece the core is pushed through and glued with, usually, with an expanding urethane glue.
 
Hits 'em Hard said:
It's not a sloppy fit between the core and the cored piece, almost snug. The epoxy/glue will act as a lube to allow for a tighter fit. Just don't tell people your putting lube on your wood.
Click to expand...
thats ****ing funny lol
cueman said:
Forearms are cored to change the weight or stabilze a wood that might normally warp. Handles are also cored for the same reasons.
Click to expand...
ok, so is this the reason why production cues warp and customs don't??
Russell Cues said:
After coring the piece the core is pushed through and glued with, usually, with an expanding urethane glue.
Click to expand...

that sounds easier than it is im sure. very cool though ty all for your response.
 
trinacria said:
thats ****ing funny lol

ok, so is this the reason why production cues warp and customs don't??


that sounds easier than it is im sure. very cool though ty all for your response.
Click to expand...

Almost all production cues now are cored.
Coring is not a magic pill. You still need to season the core dowels.
I hand pick mine and place the center holes manually.
That way I get the best grain orientation possible out of those short pieces.
 
When using epoxy you have to have some clearance between the dowel and the cored wood. If you get to tight the glue will never cure as there must be a chemical reaction for epoxy to cure.

I usually try to have from .007 to .010 clearance and coat both the dowel and the cored wood.
 
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