Cue Care Products.....

TheWizard

TheWizard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Which cue cleaning and care products, (If any) do you find the best quality?... For Example, getting all the chalk and dirt out of the shaft.

I remember a British company, "Powerglide", (Still operational) used to have an aerosol spray for cleaning cues, where you applied the spray onto a dry soft cloth/towel and then wiped up and down the shaft, and it was brilliant, it litterally got all the chalk and oil out the grain in the wood, and it was like having a brand new cue stick all over again, but I'm fairly confident that they don't have this product anymore, which is a pitty because I would be ordering a few cans of it now, to have for whenever it is required.

And so, with this in mind, whilst on the look out for good quality cleaning and care products for cues, what would you good people recommend? :)

Thank you all very much in advance as I appreciate your input :)

Willie
 
Just a wet towel will do the job.

Wet a towel, and push all the water out of the towel. Rub your shaft with the wet towel. After that, use a dry towel to clean the shaft.
 
nothing beats a mr. clean magic eraser damped with 91% rubbing alcohol, it will clean DEEP
 
TheWizard said:
Which cue cleaning and care products, (If any) do you find the best quality?... For Example, getting all the chalk and dirt out of the shaft..............................................................................Thank you all very much in advance as I appreciate your input :)

Willie
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I swear by this but use liquid comet with bleach to clean the shaft and ferrule to get the blue (chalk) out of the shaft. Then just burnish the wood again with a piece of leather. I like to seal it with slip-stic


Hope this helps


TJ
 
McChen said:
nothing beats a mr. clean magic eraser damped with 91% rubbing alcohol, it will clean DEEP
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I heard that mr. clean magic eraser will ruin your shaft, not a good choice.
 
WesleyW said:
I heard that mr. clean magic eraser will ruin your shaft, not a good choice.
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I've used it on several SW cues over the past 5 years and have not had a single problem. They work fantasticly well and with minimal dampness to the shaft.

Use the Magic Eraser w/a little water or alcohol, then 1500 grit sandpaper then leather and that's all. Minimal chemicals on the wood. Minimal stress. Minimal abrasives. No damage. Perfect looks and feel.
 
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i've been using the magic eraser once a week for about a year and it hasn't done any damage to my shafts. it is not abrasive and it doesn't have any chemicals in it, so i think it is pretty safe.
 
In my opinion most of the Cue Car Products people purchase are totally unnecessary.

The problem is most Pool Players think about what they have done to their equipment after they have done it. Rather than think of how to prevent what they are doing to their equipment today, so they do not have to deal with that problem tomorrow, or down the road.
 
Magic Eraser is abrasive. It will leave scratches in your cue. So will sandpaper, paper towels with Comet on them and anything else that is gritty.

You want something that will clean without removing any material. The Magic Eraser does this well enough I believe. I personally didn't like the scratches it left on my ferrules though.

The best thing you can do for your shafts is to let them seal naturally and KEEP YOUR HANDS clean when you play. In my opinion.

All I really do now is lightly clean the shafts with a damp towel and then burnish them with a well worn dollar bill and a piece of leather. Once in a while if I am bored I will put them on the lathe and do the same thing at a higher rate of speed.

That said, there are tons of good products out there for maintaining the shafts. Out of all the products available the cue care section might be the one that sees the most new products each year.
 
Hey everyone, thank you very much for your replies and input :)

I personally would clean my cue shafts the day before I'm going to the pool hall, and usually, I would use a soft damp cloth and then dry with cue towel, and finaly, I have a nice piece of pig skin, that I use to burnish the shafts, but the problem with this method is, it doesn't get the chalk, etc, out of the grain of the shafts, (I have 2 shafts for my player) which I find to be a royal pain in the a$$, whereas, I'm looking to find a cleaning product, that doesn't have any need for any abrasive(s) of any kind, because all abrasives do gradually alter the taper of the shaft, and, I'm perfectly happy, with the taper that I've got :)

As reguards keeping my hands clean, I always make a point of washing my hands and letting them completely dry before going near my cue case to get the cue sticks out of the case.

Thank you once again everyone for reply, I very much appreciate it :), and any other feedback on shaft cleaning products is greatly and very much appreciated :)

Willie
 
Like I said, I only use a slightly wet towel and a dry towel. Never sand it. After the dry towel, just leave it a few hours alone, it will be as new. You can like it or not, but this is the result:

6f5vjnt.jpg
 
experience with sandpaper

If you use damped towel with water to clean your shaft, it will probably raise the wood grain and the shaft feels rough. In this case you need some very fine sandpaper. Don't worry, it won't take off much wood.

So which sandpaper should you choose? I have tried 1500, 2000, etc grit sandpaper for automobiles, Q-Wiz, and Q-Smooth. I would rank the smoothness of the above products like this:

(rough to smooth)
Q-Wiz rough side
Q-Smooth white
1500 grit
Q-Smooth blue
2000 grit
Q-Smooth green
Q-Wiz smooth side
Q-Smooth yellow

Unless your shaft is really rough, you would start with a Q-Smooth blue. Since ordinary sandpaper is not washable and hence not reusable, and Q-Wiz has limited degree of smoothness, I choose Q-Smooth.
 
NervousNovice said:
If you use damped towel with water to clean your shaft, it will probably raise the wood grain and the shaft feels rough. In this case you need some very fine sandpaper. Don't worry, it won't take off much wood.
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It depends on what quality wood you have. The wood grain of my Pro 2+ will not raise, but my Buffalo shaft it raise indeed. That's why you need to leave the shaft a few hours alone. After a few hours just whip it with a clean towel again, no sanding required.

Sanding with a fine sandpaper won't take off much wood. But after a year, sanding every day, it will be quite a lot of wood you have sanded. The colour of your shaft will also change if you sand the shaft, it will make it ugly.
 
TheWizard said:
Hey everyone, thank you very much for your replies and input :)

I personally would clean my cue shafts the day before I'm going to the pool hall, and usually, I would use a soft damp cloth and then dry with cue towel, and finaly, I have a nice piece of pig skin, that I use to burnish the shafts, but the problem with this method is, it doesn't get the chalk, etc, out of the grain of the shafts, (I have 2 shafts for my player) which I find to be a royal pain in the a$$, whereas, I'm looking to find a cleaning product, that doesn't have any need for any abrasive(s) of any kind, because all abrasives do gradually alter the taper of the shaft, and, I'm perfectly happy, with the taper that I've got :)

As reguards keeping my hands clean, I always make a point of washing my hands and letting them completely dry before going near my cue case to get the cue sticks out of the case.

Thank you once again everyone for reply, I very much appreciate it :), and any other feedback on shaft cleaning products is greatly and very much appreciated :)

Willie
Click to expand...

I think I've tried most every chemical that's been suggested for cleaning the shaft and none are very good at getting out all of the chalk. The only thing I've found that works REALLY well is the Magic Eraser and if you haven't used it you owe it to yourself to try it at least once.

Just barely dampen it with a little water or alcohol (I've had better luck with water but have only tried alcohol once). It will take ALL the chalk out of the shaft and leave the shaft only slightly "fuzzy" feeling.

The "fuzziness" can be taken off with very fine abrasive, like 2000 sandpaper, or even 4000 grip polishing cloth. These abrasives are so fine, and you use them so spareingly in this process, that it would take a lifetime to diminish the shaft's diameter to the extent that it would be measureable. Then burnish with your pigskin and viola! Try it once and you'll be very happy you did and I promise it won't hurt your shaft. I guarantee you I wouldn't be using it on my South West cues if it hurt them in any way!!! It gets all the chalk off and then a really strong burnishing job makes the shaft VERY shiney! Beautiful!!

Having done this once you'll find that if you clean the shaft with 90% alcohol after each time you play the chalk will not embed the shaft and you won't have to use the abrasive for a long time.
 
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