cue case building?

Surprising! Nobody asking question - like. What size of rivets, threads weight/size, zippers weight/size, type of lining is use, what tools to use? Oh! I quess I just did!

But then I hope most of the people have this knowledge or already have leather craft experienced, especially in leather carving.

I hope they got on hand enough cardboard, white butcher paper or brown plain wrapping paper [grocery bags] and clear tracing film.
 
so this is what ive been thinking you guys do: cut the tubes then add the liner to the tubes, then wrap it? and then insert them into the leather ? what do you guys use for the inside liner of the case itself?
 
so this is what ive been thinking you guys do: cut the tubes then add the liner to the tubes, then wrap it? and then insert them into the leather ? what do you guys use for the inside liner of the case itself?

I will let the cue casemaker [Brain, Rusty, Justis, or John] answer that question. But you can check this out: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2961&hl=

Here a picture from that post:

no001_f.jpg

Or these post; http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1810&hl=pool+case
http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=913&hl=

Here Pictures from the above posts

IMG_6327_01.jpg

IMG_6328_01.jpg





But I will say you are the creator and designer of your case. Whether tube, sleeves. Hard or soft case. Who know! You might come up with your own way of attaching/ installing tubes. You must create your template/pattern first, once you know the type of design. Then the materials.

The Linning/liner you use, is really up to you [ from either pigskin linning to deer skin, or rabbit fur. Even manmade]

Hardware from per gold or silver to plastic buckle.

The books will only guide you in how to make different item or technique. You will start with a drawing of what you want, then mading actual full size pattern per section. Obtain material and tools. Then the cutting, punching, carving, dye/stain, then the assembly [sewing or lacing]. This can be done in twelve hours or 60 days. Or you might contract with a leather carver to do the craving for you{ as some Cue Case maker have.
 
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I know that you all want to know every detail but the facts are that there are plenty of ways to build a cue case. What type of rivets? I have just about every size made so that I can rivet any weight of leather to any other weight. I have awls, and drill bits, and punches and a two dremels to modify any part or hole to suit my needs.

I posted a basic primer on the tubes and the fabric. You just have to take your cue and figure out how YOU want to protect it.

My first cue cases was a rubber band - no shit. My first cue was a Coca-Cola cue from the flea market that was held together with a rubber band, and just ONE RUBBER band at that. I quickly modified that sucker by adding another rubber band.

My first "real" case was a McDermott silver nylon one. Without a strap. I went to the fabric store and bought some nylon strap material (called "tape") and sewed myself a strap on that case.

I mean you just have to start. Just think about it. Brian or me could write you a step-by-step tutorial but where is the fun in that? Don't you want to discover things for yourself? I have shelves full of trial and error projects. I have 18 years of such things in my head that I have done.

Nothing wrong with asking, but really by now there is enough information in this thread already to build a cue case. So get to it. :-)
 
I know that you all want to know every detail but the facts are that there are plenty of ways to build a cue case. What type of rivets? I have just about every size made so that I can rivet any weight of leather to any other weight. I have awls, and drill bits, and punches and a two dremels to modify any part or hole to suit my needs.

I posted a basic primer on the tubes and the fabric. You just have to take your cue and figure out how YOU want to protect it.

My first cue cases was a rubber band - no shit. My first cue was a Coca-Cola cue from the flea market that was held together with a rubber band, and just ONE RUBBER band at that. I quickly modified that sucker by adding another rubber band.

My first "real" case was a McDermott silver nylon one. Without a strap. I went to the fabric store and bought some nylon strap material (called "tape") and sewed myself a strap on that case.

I mean you just have to start. Just think about it. Brian or me could write you a step-by-step tutorial but where is the fun in that? Don't you want to discover things for yourself? I have shelves full of trial and error projects. I have 18 years of such things in my head that I have done.

Nothing wrong with asking, but really by now there is enough information in this thread already to build a cue case. So get to it. :-)

Tap, tap, tap...



Brian
www.nittanyleather.com
 
I posted on this a couple of weeks ago but it was deleted. Anyone ever thought of making cases from camoflauge leather? I work for a leather tannery and we have some very cool looking patterns. Seems that it might make a nice case, but might be a little too redneck for some.
Trevor

I'd bet that I have used more different patterns than just about everyone else. When I owned Instroke we did hundreds of one-of-a-kind or very limited cases using a wide variety of printed/painted leathers. With GTF we did around 50 different limited models.

I know that some companies have done camo soft cases and hard cases in camo decorated vinyl. I don't know how well they sell.

I have never been tempted to make a leather case using any leather that looked like camouflage. As a person who has made cases from Chrome Reptile print and pink polka dots I am probably out of line when I say that a camo case is tacky to me :-)

But one thing I know from all this is that there is no such thing as an unsellable case. Every case we have ever made has found a soul mate. As gramps used to say, there is an ass for every seat.
 
I know that you all want to know every detail but the facts are that there are plenty of ways to build a cue case. What type of rivets? I have just about every size made so that I can rivet any weight of leather to any other weight. I have awls, and drill bits, and punches and a two dremels to modify any part or hole to suit my needs.

I posted a basic primer on the tubes and the fabric. You just have to take your cue and figure out how YOU want to protect it.

My first cue cases was a rubber band - no shit. My first cue was a Coca-Cola cue from the flea market that was held together with a rubber band, and just ONE RUBBER band at that. I quickly modified that sucker by adding another rubber band.

My first "real" case was a McDermott silver nylon one. Without a strap. I went to the fabric store and bought some nylon strap material (called "tape") and sewed myself a strap on that case.

I mean you just have to start. Just think about it. Brian or me could write you a step-by-step tutorial but where is the fun in that? Don't you want to discover things for yourself? I have shelves full of trial and error projects. I have 18 years of such things in my head that I have done.

Nothing wrong with asking, but really by now there is enough information in this thread already to build a cue case. So get to it. :-)

Tap! Tap! Tap!!!
I agree with John, Brain, and other. No matter what we tell or show you. It come down to the fact - You are the one who must draw, cut, punch each items to made the case. But do the studied and research needed.

But when you made your first case. What will you use/do - when someone offer to buy your case!!! Make two!!!!!!! But please show AZer what you done>>>>>>
 
yea i really appreicate you guys answering so many questions. i believe im headed in the right direction. im just super meticulous when it comes to building something and i like to get the best results right away. i understand you guys have been through alot of trial and error and i know I will be faced with the same exact thing. Hopefully I will get a case done and post it up so you guys can give me some more advice. Thanks again!
 
Do your trial and error with poster board or paper first, draw and redraw a thousand time. Use bed sheet to act as liner for tube liner before using the right liner. In other word make mistake then, and correct it then.

Hint: your pattern will need to be hung if you use cardboard or other stiff material. Paper and film can be roll or folder.

Look at everything or anything as a possible cue case.

Get a Binder or make one out of leather to keep information, drawing whether smooth or rough,measurement, supplier list, questions, and etc.

When it come to designing carving, some great design to look at are Leather Custom Motorcycle Seat.

Checkout the nearby Tandy or other Leather Company. Better yet Register at Leatherworker.net to ask or research more inquiry.
 
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yea i really appreicate you guys answering so many questions. i believe im headed in the right direction. im just super meticulous when it comes to building something and i like to get the best results right away. i understand you guys have been through alot of trial and error and i know I will be faced with the same exact thing. Hopefully I will get a case done and post it up so you guys can give me some more advice. Thanks again!

Have you ever heard the term Paralysis by Analysis? You could never start if you try to think of all the angles first. This is why I posted the basic guide, start with the tools you have at hand.

Go to the hardware store and buy some plumbing tubes, a hacksaw and sandpaper. Make the tubes. Go to the fabric store and buy fabric you like. Take your cue in with you and see how it slides on the fabric, decide if you want your cue rubbing on the fabric. Feel the stretchiness, buy several types to try. You don't even need to sew the liners actually, you can overlap the edge and tape it down in such a way that it won't move. That is what I did on my first couple cases, it just takes more time to do.

After 18 years I have a certain way I like to do the interiors. I have them measured out to accommodate in an easy to use way, just about every cue length except the odd ones that are very short or very long. Most cue case makers don't see the need to do it the way I do it and they sell well and receive high praise. So don't be too obsessive about it at the beginning. Get the basics down and modify from there.

I would start with a 1x2. Use cardboard to mock it up as Billiardshot said to do. I make paper models ALL THE TIME. When we are working out a problem in my shop my desk looks like kindergarten with scotch tape and scissors and paper cutouts - you will be surprised how much you can learn by doing real world modeling like this. I have worked out problems this way in minutes that I couldn't do in hours of trying on CorelDraw.

MAKE NOTES as you go. DON'T LOSE THEM. Keep a notebook. I have drawings and notes that I refer to from 1991 on my laptop.

Do you know why Jack Justis can make 100+ cases a year out of his laundry room? He stays off the forums :-) AND he has a system down that works for him, everything he does is done to set patterns, not unlike a factory. This is what everyone from individual case maker to giant factory does who makes repeated items. Anyone who only makes true unique pieces is literally making a prototype each time. BUT even a Picasso repeats elements because it's human nature to draw on what you have learned to create the new.

Here is the thing, if you look at Jack's early cases you will see that the style is much different, the work was not as tight, he was experimenting and learning. Eventually the cases developed into the signature look that they have today.

And you can see the same thing with just about every case maker's early work. There is no way that we can make you into a full fledged case maker even if we write a detailed tutorial. The only way to get there is to start.

Confucious or some Chinese philosopher said "a journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step."

Hell I saw a guy in Valley Forge last year with a Duct Tape and Newspaper case. He had made a cigar-case style pool cue case out of rolled newspaper and duct tape and it was not only very functional it was very unique and kind of cool. Not $400 worth of cool for me though which is the price he asked for when I asked if he wanted to sell it. The funny coincidence was that on the way home I saw Duct Tape wallets for sale in the airport.

Wrap that cue and get to it.
 
filluptieu, design your case [what you vision your case to look like] on paper, then write down each components you will need [snap, clasp, zipper, leather, lace, thread, and so on]with price. Now write down the tools you got for making a case and tools you will need to buy, also with price for both lists. This is your cost for the case, minus labor which should be added $35.00 or $???.?? per hr x labor time. [I hope you add the books, paper, pencil, eraser,and etc. to the cost].

Now ask yourself this question - Will I make another case or use the left over for other leather projects? If you answer [yes] then start making that dream case. If you answer [no]. Send your design to Brain, John, Rusty Melton, or Justis, one of them might make you that dream case, for what your first case would of cost.

It time to become a leather craftman and learn why some secret are never told, but learn.
 
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so this is what ive been thinking you guys do: cut the tubes then add the liner to the tubes, then wrap it? and then insert them into the leather ? what do you guys use for the inside liner of the case itself?


You can use whatever you want that doesn't harm the cue or nothing. it all depends on what you want the case to look like. Steve Price leaves it at raw leather over tubes. I put a liner in so that the user sees nothing but the same soft material when they open the case. Other folks use garment weight leather like lamb or goat, some folks use another layer of veg tan and dye it.

I prefer to use cloth backed with foam rubber. I just like the cushiness and feel that it adds to the security of the cues and it also just feels better psychologically to look at the padding.

One thing I really try to do is keep cue parts away from sharp edges and gritty surfaces inside the case.

My philosophy is that if I would not rub my cue with it vigorously then I don't want it inside my case.

Think about this for a second.

You have all seen high speed videos which means extreme slow motion action. So you have all seen these slow motion videos of ordinary actions and how much actual activity there is in something that happens so fast.

So, when you are driving down a bumpy road, speeding up, slowing down, braking hard, and so on, what do you think your cue is doing inside it's case?

If it's not held securely then it's sliding, bumping against the walls, getting jarred, rubbing vigorously against the liner and so on. It's simple physics, the car and everything in are in motion, whatever is not restrained flies around the car with every bump and application of the brakes. So your cue is in constant motion inside the case if you make a case that allows that type of movement.

So that is my advice to you when you are thinking about the interior. At the beginning I would focus on just putting a case together and figuring out the how. Later I would suggest that you focus on more advanced protection.

I find it funny that people carry things of far less value than the average custom cue in padded cases but players will accept any hole as long as it looks good on the outside.

I think my next cue case booth will have a science museum type area where I show off many types of materials used in cue cases and I ask people if they will polish their cues with it. Of course I will not be responsible if their cues get scratched. (ok rant over)

Tip: Decorative Felt and Velvet are NOT good materials to use as liners. Velvet is too thick and grippy and Felt pills (sheds) and absorbs moisture like a sponge.
 
modifications...

after reading John's post about modifying his McDermott case...I thought I'd ask if anyone has tried putting tubes in an It's George? I have a 2x4 and thought I could make it into a 2x2 tubed case pretty easily. Why? Well, if I have both shafts in the case I don't like squeezing the 2nd butt in (pin up) for fear of scratching the buttplate or the shaft joint that are tight going past one another.

one problem could be...the case isn't "light" to begin with....will it make a big difference in weight?
 
filluptieu, design your case [what you vision your case to look like] on paper, then write down each components you will need [snap, clasp, zipper, leather, lace, thread, and so on]with price. Now write down the tools you got for making a case and tools you will need to buy, also with price for both lists. This is your cost for the case, minus labor which should be added $35.00 or $???.?? per hr x labor time. [I hope you add the books, paper, pencil, eraser,and etc. to the cost].

Now ask yourself this question - Will I make another case or use the left over for other leather projects? If you answer [yes] then start making that dream case. If you answer [no]. Send your design to Brain, John, Rusty Melton, or Justis, one of them might make you that dream case, for what your first case would of cost.

It time to become a leather craftman and learn why some secret are never told, but learn.

Now I know why I never made any money at this! :-)
 
after reading John's post about modifying his McDermott case...I thought I'd ask if anyone has tried putting tubes in an It's George? I have a 2x4 and thought I could make it into a 2x2 tubed case pretty easily. Why? Well, if I have both shafts in the case I don't like squeezing the 2nd butt in (pin up) for fear of scratching the buttplate or the shaft joint that are tight going past one another.

one problem could be...the case isn't "light" to begin with....will it make a big difference in weight?

Yes. You can put tubes in a soft case. How many depends on the case but that is essentially what an "Envelope" case with tubes in it is.

I have played with this many times and for a long time I carried an Instroke 3x6 soft case in which I had put tubes to make it into a 2x4.

The case will increase in weight up to double depending on the thickness of the tubes and weight of the liner material.

Adding tubes to a soft case is actually one of the easiest ways to increase protection at a relatively low cost with a low tech method. This can be done by anyone with a hacksaw, sandpaper, tape, and a sewing machine to sew the liners. Any seamstress can sew the liners in about five minutes.
 
after reading John's post about modifying his McDermott case...I thought I'd ask if anyone has tried putting tubes in an It's George? I have a 2x4 and thought I could make it into a 2x2 tubed case pretty easily. Why? Well, if I have both shafts in the case I don't like squeezing the 2nd butt in (pin up) for fear of scratching the buttplate or the shaft joint that are tight going past one another.

one problem could be...the case isn't "light" to begin with....will it make a big difference in weight?

I am sorry I misread your post. You mean to put tubes inside an it's George tube case?

I just tried to put lined tubes in a GTF case and the ones I have were too big. In theory if you removed the liner then you could probably find tubes to fit the shell. With the liner in I think it's going to be too much.

With the it's George style case the way to load it is always butts first then shafts. If you try to squeeze the butt past the shafts then you will always have the risk of damaging the cue. When removing the cue you should always remove at least one shaft first to relieve pressure.

This is because this style of case depends on the widest section of the cue parts, those being the butt piece and shaft ring never being in the same space at the same time. The case gets it's efficiency by allowing the tapered parts to nestle with their tapers opposed.

You could also consider inserting a section of tube that is entirely covered in fabric. Bandsaw a tube and create a long piece that is about 1/3 of the circle. Make a sort of sock to sew this into. Insert that into both butt cavities and then you will probably achieve your goal of total separation of the parts. That's what comes to me as something I would try.
 
I am sorry I misread your post. You mean to put tubes inside an it's George tube case?

I just tried to put lined tubes in a GTF case and the ones I have were too big. In theory if you removed the liner then you could probably find tubes to fit the shell. With the liner in I think it's going to be too much.

With the it's George style case the way to load it is always butts first then shafts. If you try to squeeze the butt past the shafts then you will always have the risk of damaging the cue. When removing the cue you should always remove at least one shaft first to relieve pressure.

This is because this style of case depends on the widest section of the cue parts, those being the butt piece and shaft ring never being in the same space at the same time. The case gets it's efficiency by allowing the tapered parts to nestle with their tapers opposed.

You could also consider inserting a section of tube that is entirely covered in fabric. Bandsaw a tube and create a long piece that is about 1/3 of the circle. Make a sort of sock to sew this into. Insert that into both butt cavities and then you will probably achieve your goal of total separation of the parts. That's what comes to me as something I would try.

Thanks John, I just got the case a couple of months ago and haven't taught myself that I can't put my player butt in last is all. Coming from a Guiseppe 2x2 that I could just put them in any order....I gotta break that habit. Love the look of the case (reddish eel patterned 2x4 just like the one on the far left in the pic), and it's functionality is fine, just user error, and I need to protect my cues from ME!! I think I might try the butt tubes only (should be an inexpensive experiment).

Guess I shoulda just given one of yours a try....still might. :thumbup:

it's GEORGE 2x4.jpg
 
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