Cue Cleaner and Wax
- Thread starter tsp&b
- Start date
> For a good,light cleaning on my personal shafts,I use denatured alcohol or this all-purpose cleaner I found called Orange Magic,a citrus-based degreaser similar to Cinch. It smells like orange juice,and cleans very well but not very deep. For deep cleaning,like I do for customers who have never asked me NOT to do it,I use the same stuff on a Magic Eraser.
For wax,what matters most is that it be as pure a carnauba as possible,and nothing but yellow. Mother's makes a cleaner/wax that I've seen used by other guys,but I didn't like because it's pinkish,and not only causes your shafts to look pink,but also has silicones and other stuff in it that isn't good for the wood. Yellow is much closer to the color of shaftwood. Plus,the higher the carnauba content,the harder it is. Liquid wax may work for some,but I prefer the paste-type. Good paste wax should should be about the consistency of room-temperature cake icing,not runny like pudding. The ones I've used with good results are Karseal,Chris Hightower's version,Mother's California Gold,and Eagle 1. One that absolutely sucks is the yellow Kit carnauba sold at Wal-Mart,way too soft and runny. The can I've been using for 8 years now still has plenty left in it,and it's Meguiar's #26 High Tech Yellow. Avoid anything with silicones,as using them on a finished butt for example,could cause problems down the road if the cue has to be refinished,this goes double for shaft wood.
For the best results possible,put a good enough coat on that the whole shaft is coated,and leave it for 30 minutes or more. When the excess is visibly dry,then buff and repeat. Obviously this won't work if the customer is waiting. Tommy D.
For wax,what matters most is that it be as pure a carnauba as possible,and nothing but yellow. Mother's makes a cleaner/wax that I've seen used by other guys,but I didn't like because it's pinkish,and not only causes your shafts to look pink,but also has silicones and other stuff in it that isn't good for the wood. Yellow is much closer to the color of shaftwood. Plus,the higher the carnauba content,the harder it is. Liquid wax may work for some,but I prefer the paste-type. Good paste wax should should be about the consistency of room-temperature cake icing,not runny like pudding. The ones I've used with good results are Karseal,Chris Hightower's version,Mother's California Gold,and Eagle 1. One that absolutely sucks is the yellow Kit carnauba sold at Wal-Mart,way too soft and runny. The can I've been using for 8 years now still has plenty left in it,and it's Meguiar's #26 High Tech Yellow. Avoid anything with silicones,as using them on a finished butt for example,could cause problems down the road if the cue has to be refinished,this goes double for shaft wood.
For the best results possible,put a good enough coat on that the whole shaft is coated,and leave it for 30 minutes or more. When the excess is visibly dry,then buff and repeat. Obviously this won't work if the customer is waiting. Tommy D.
tsp&b said:
I don't think wax should ever be put on a cue because it attracts dirt. Don't use it on the shaft and please do not ever put it on an Irish linen wrap.
Good Cuemaking,
Arnot Wadsworth said:
As usuall I agree with Arnot. Good morning Arnot...JER
Mc2 said:
I clean the shaft with Porper's Shaft Cleaner. I dry it by friction on the lathe. I lightly sand it with 400 grit, then 600 grit and then 1000 grit. I burnigh it with a piece of cardboard in the lathe. I remove it from the lathe and burnish it again by hand with the same cardborrd, turnig it as I burnish it.
Good Cuemaking,
Wax
About the wax. I am specifically interested in what wax you like when Threadind tennons for joint collars and ferrule tennons? And what you use to clean the threads so you get a good bond when you glue on the joint collar or ferrule. And please tell me more about your favorite shaft cleaner and how you use it.
About the wax. I am specifically interested in what wax you like when Threadind tennons for joint collars and ferrule tennons? And what you use to clean the threads so you get a good bond when you glue on the joint collar or ferrule. And please tell me more about your favorite shaft cleaner and how you use it.
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tsp&b said:
Maybe I'm not reading your post correctly, but never put wax where you intend to glue something. I can't answer for Arnot, but I use G/5 5 minute epoxy for ferrules & the West System Epoxy for nearly everything else. As far as cleaners go, I think the Magic Eraser, is as good as any. After cleaning & light sanding, I burnish, then seal with a sanding sealer. I finish with a light sanding with 1500 & burnish again...JER
I use cue wax for lubricant when threading the wood tenon. Usually there is not enough left to effect any bonding. If there is, spin the cue in reverse while wiping with laquer thinner to clean it off. I also use the Cue Man shaft cleaner, sealer and cue wax on shafts. Just sand the cue with 600 grit, apply the cleaner with paper towel, and a good bit pf pressure until clean. Sand again with 600, burnish shaft with paper towel, apply sealer. Let dry 30 seconds. Hit with 600 grit to remove sealer off of surface only leaving it in pores. Then put some cue wax on with paper towel and you now have a clean, silky smooth feeling shaft. I advise you to ignore all negative comments about cue wax above. My guess is they tried bowling alley wax or furniture wax or car wax instead of the really good cue wax made specifically for cues, to come up with their thoughts on waxes. I had the dirt attracting results with all of those also. Not trying to start a argument, but I have used my cue wax for 19 years and it works. Many other cuemakers who post on here also use it.tsp&b said:
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
i have been waxing my entire cues except of course the tip and wrap for many years.i play pool almost everyday.they still look like new.the whole secret is to put a very very thin layer on..your not waxing a car...put the wax on and let it dry at least 5 mins..then lightly buff with a soft t-shirt ..i wax it about once every week.for the past 2 years i use a wax made by Kiwi called "Wet pruf"..i get mine at Walmart in the shoe dept...main thing to remember put on a very very thin coat of wax and buff lightly not getting any on the tip or wrap..your shaft will stay looking new...
quick cleaning...
those alcohol swabs they use for blood test/injections.........in small individual foil packs, sold at drug stores. carry some in yer cue case.
those alcohol swabs they use for blood test/injections.........in small individual foil packs, sold at drug stores. carry some in yer cue case.
cueman said:
HI Chris; normally I agree with just about everything you say. However, that WAX by definition is sticky & will grab that blue chalk & hold it in the pores of the Q. I have never used ANY of the waxes, that you mentioned. I have used "KARSEAL CUE WAX". The lable says it is "made with No. 1 Carnuba wax". This WAX is waxy to the feel & makes the shaft feel sticky, in time. If you have something that is called wax, I can only relate to these kinds of WAXES. I have had only bad expiriences with WAX. This is not a reflection on your products, but only my experiences. Maybe you could have explained the differences between your products, & others, before saying "IGNORE ALL NEGATIVE COMMENTS ABOUT CUE WAX". WE certainly are free to express our experiences, as are you...JER
Your experiences with wax are bad. Mine are good. If you had the Karseal that came in the black can years ago and was orange in color I would agree with you. Maybe we apply something differently. You mention it holding chalk in the pores. Maybe you didn't have your pores filled with my shaft sealer before using the wax. But I still advise all to ignore anyone telling them all shaft wax is bad. Yes we disagree on this one. I rarely disagree with you either, but with 19 years of good experiences with my cue wax I doubt you will change my mind on this one. The wax should make your shaft feel ultra smooth instead of sticky. So I really feel your negative experiences came from using the wrong wax or improper application.BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
IF someone is feeling the wax to be STICKY then you are putting way too much on or not using the right wax.i constantly get compliments on all my cues on how they look like new..with that said i am a non smoker and keep my hands clean of food ect.before i handle my cues.to wax or not will always be a personal choice.
cueman said:
You are right,I don't fill the pores with your shaft sealer. I fill them with MY shaft sealer. You are also right, the KASSEAL wax, was in the black tin. I have 2 cans that are green, with white lids that I have never opened, because of my bad experiences with the other. I am going to your site right now,to order some of your wax. If I find it gives good results,I will start a new thread giving my honest opinion. If I don't agree I will not say anything bad...your friend, Jerry