Cue cleaning question

arknova

arknova

Me like Pool. Mhmm
Silver Member
Hi there,

my friends recently recommended me a method to clean the dirt off my shaft with a damp cloth; whereby he'll wrap the cloth around the shaft and pull it hard from the top of the shaft all the way to the bottom such that it produces a high pitch sound (I presume this is from the friction between the damp cloth and the shaft).

He'll then finish off with a leather burnisher to remove any water residue left on the cue and it leaves a really smooth finish.

However, I'd like to know if this is advisable? Are there any potential damages to my cue shaft (I'm currently using a 314-2) or it works perfectly fine?

Information on this method of cue cleaning is very much appreciated! :)

Cheers,
Clarence
 
You want to be very careful with the amount of water you use on a spliced shaft.
I reccomend taking your cue to a reputable cue repairman and having it cleaned and sealed by a pro.
 
Hi cuejo,

Thanks for sharing but I'm looking towards something that I can maintain regularly with. I can't possibly take my shaft to the repairman every single time I take it to the pool hall, which was why I'm entertaining this shaft maintenance method of my friend.

Hope someone can enlighten me on the method. Thanks! :grin:
 
Best to get the following chemicals and then the cue whiz o

or a piece of leather of hyde to burnish the shaft.

First,

Chemical for cleaning the cue shaft, cue components, unique and atlas all have this chemical available.

Then starting at the tip take a clean paper towel and work toward the dirty parts toward the joint. Continue until the paper towel starts clean and when you put the chemical on and wipe toward the end of the shaft, if it comes up clean then the dirt has been removed, without doing a deep-cleaning process, which is more extensive.

Anyway, after the dirt, chalk is gone, then you want to re-seal the open pores of the shaft.

Once again, the companies I listed before offer a shaft sealer. Use this with a piece of paper towel. Allow this to dry, then I use a 800 to 1000 grit paper to knock off the sealer and make it smooth.

Then you can use a 2000 grit paper and work it up and down until it gets hot.

Then finally a piece of leather(finished) or a Cue Whiz, and burnish back and forth until some heat is generated and then you are done.

Now, stay on top with just a Cue-whiz to keep it clean or use the 1500 or 2000 will remove the grit and grime and some of the chalk residue and keep the shaft nice and glassy smooth at the same time, keep the wood burnished so moisture and contaminants are kept out of the wood grain.

Hope this is helpful.

Off course some of this would be easier with a motorized cleaning station, but with some time you can do this with you hands and your own work-out.

Good Luck

Mike 'acedonkeyace' Kennedy
 
I use a Mr. Clean magic eraser dry and finish off with a brisk leather buffing. No water or chemicals.Once the tree is cut down water and wood do not mix well.
 
I use a slightly damp towel. Wipe it 2-3 times from joint to tip holding the towel firmly on the shaft. You should hear it "squeak". Immediately, use the dry part of the towel to completely remove the moisture.

I do this at least once or twice on league night. Been using this method for years without damage.

I also have a Hightower lathe and I periodically use Chris' shaft sealer. I highly recommend you get a competent repair shop to seal your shaft properly. If it's done correctly, there will be zero drag and the dirt won't penetrate the pores of the wood. :cool:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top