Joint, shaft, and tip specifications related to type of game played
FeltMaster said:
Rich,
I find most of my preference is in the shaft taper, Ferrule / Tip and a Wood to Wood joint.
The Z2 is a thin shaft, needing a really good stroke, since your new to the game, this can have alot to do with your performance ( and I am not cutting on your game). I was using a Z2 at one point and went back to a thicker diameter shaft.
Tinker with your shaft specs and overall weight, a little less expensive approach until you know what works best.
I am sure Mike Webb would assist you with any modifications.
Good Luck,
Dom
Rich:
Dom gives excellent advice here. The Z2 is indeed a thin shaft, and coupled with its Pro Taper, may or may not be a match for you -- especially if you play much of the time on bar tables (i.e. APA league). Depending on what "type" of bar table you play on (i.e. tables that utilize a heavyweight "rock" cue-ball, oversize cue-ball, or magnetic cue-ball) can determine what thickness shaft and type of tip is more or less best suited for that type of table. For example, the Z2 shaft is normally not a good choice for the type of bar tables that use a heavyweight cue-ball (e.g. Aramith Blue-Dot, or the even heavier Aramith Red-Dot [not to be confused with Aramith Red Circle, which is a generic cue-ball replacement for standard drop-pocket tables.]). Reason: a thicker shaft, something like 13mm or even 14mm, might be better suited to this type of table, because of the greater surface area (and thus contact area) the tip will have with that heavyweight cue-ball. You'll want as much contact area as possible between the tip and that heavyweight cue-ball, to offer greater control (i.e. draw, follow, or even English, if you're already at the stage of proficiency to use it). You can do a comparison between two different thickness shafts to see the difference in control that each gives you -- the thicker shaft will invariably offer easier draw and follow with the same stroke, because it offers wider "surface area" at the tip to contact and "grab" that heavyweight cue-ball with.
Now, if you're on a table that uses an over-sized cue-ball, or a magnetic cue-ball, things will be a bit different -- you may not need a thicker shaft to have that same control.
Personally, I carry various thickness shafts in my cue case to deal with changing table conditions, because "what works great" at a table at one location, may not at another table at another location.
In another thread, I posted some other things to consider related to how the cue's joint affects the feel and "hit feedback" of the cue:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=1371478&postcount=4
I hope all these things are helpful in your search to find that "perfect" cue (which may not necessarily be a complete replacement of your existing cue; perhaps just a shaft [or plural "shafts"] replacement?).
Warmest regards,
Sean
:grin-square:
