To get a cue at 60", would it be as simple as getting a 31" shaft? Would it affect the playablity of the cue?
Cue length question
- Thread starter 60inchcueguy
- Start date
DougT said:
I think he meant that it tends to not hit as hard. This is due to the longer leangth of the shaft and possibly a longer taper. If you have a straight conical taper I do not think it would be that bad, but a long taper on a 2" longer shaft does make a difference. I have a local makers custom and had him add 1/2" to both butt and shaft to get to 59", with a shorter taper and more conical. Hits well. My original shaft was 29 1/2" long with a long taper and it hit soft or as I say.. "pudgy"
DougT
Illustrated Principles
This is opposite of my experience with the 30" Predator 314-2 with the Everest tip. Hits hard. Tons of spin. Long and straight are the big improvements on my game with this setup. The down side for me has been when I move to a short bar-box with lighter red-circle cueball, I often feel like I'm hitting a driver off a par three. It's sometimes cumbersome and I overplay position. Soft safety play is a whole new touch and often whay off. Total weight is 18.7.UWPoolGod1 said:
Anyways, I suspect my issue has more to do with balance point than shaft taper (I believe it's the pro-taper). Possibly the harder tip. I could be wrong,
Doug
DougT
Illustrated Principles
If you think about the balance of the cue, that would change. If you make your bridge longer, then no difference. When the extra inch is behind your back hand, the weight will feel different, back heavy. Follow? Still, 2" is a lot.Ohplayer said:
I suspect you would notice more difference from a different tip, or other shaft characteristics. See my comments in the previous post. I might ask this question in the ask the cuemaker section.
Well a Predator shaft is a whole different animal. I played with a Predator shaft for a year and yeah it was stiff but I was also having problems with control on the big tables. Normal cues without any wedges/glue reinforcement/other do not hit as well when they begin to get longer due to the thin shaft for a long taper. Unless you have the tip over 13MM that is. That makes a difference too.DougT said:
DougT said:
Well, all my cues are 60" with the 30/30 split. The reason I said soft, as was previously stated, is that the longer the shaft the thinner the over all taper, assuming the diameter of the joint isn't increased. I requested that the cue makers that built my cues use a more aggressive taper to counteract this and still give a reasonably firm feel.
I added 2 5/8 " to my shaft to go from an overall length of 57" to 59 5/8". And it has a constant diameter of only 12 mm along the top 12" or so (ash wood). It's a little whippy as you might expect, and I think I would prefer it to be less so, but I'm not very sensitive to these things. I doubt that it affects my game (I've got other problems!) and the longer length feels much better. It's also my break cue.Ohplayer said:
You're probably more attuned to these things and perhaps wouldn't find it acceptable. But I haven't regreted it at all.
Jim
People don't believe...but...
shorter cues play better! Try to order a 60" Cog.
shorter cues play better! Try to order a 60" Cog.
Never has a more true statement been said on this forum.Hal2 said:
But no....everyone wants an extra inch.
why would one think
that a person 5'2" should play with the same length cue as a person 6'4"?? It is not logical and the mechanics involved with an extra foot in wingspan should be addressed. Every other sport recognizes the need for different length equipment i.e. golf, tennis, baseball, etc. Personally, I am 6'2" and love my 64" cue.
that a person 5'2" should play with the same length cue as a person 6'4"?? It is not logical and the mechanics involved with an extra foot in wingspan should be addressed. Every other sport recognizes the need for different length equipment i.e. golf, tennis, baseball, etc. Personally, I am 6'2" and love my 64" cue.
cue extension
I couldnt agree more, But here is a something I saw done that was very cool.
In order to add about an inch and a half to a cue, one of our best local players had a joint extension made, It screws on the butt in place of the shaft, and has a pin on the othe end for the shaft. works great! looks cool, and fits in his pouch so his cue will fit in his case. plus i would think he can use it on other cues without costing a cent.
Varney Cues said:People don't believe...but...
shorter cues play better! Try to order a 60" Cog.
I couldnt agree more, But here is a something I saw done that was very cool.
In order to add about an inch and a half to a cue, one of our best local players had a joint extension made, It screws on the butt in place of the shaft, and has a pin on the othe end for the shaft. works great! looks cool, and fits in his pouch so his cue will fit in his case. plus i would think he can use it on other cues without costing a cent.
birdy said:
Yes.
As many posters have mentioned, the ideal split between butt/shaft would be 50-50. It also depends on how sensitive you are to your cue's feedback...but 3 extra inches will most definitely twang like a mf.
I had one shaft on an earlier cue that was 1/2 inch longer than my regular shafts...it resonated noticably whippier. All my cues are now 59 inches, split evently shaft/butt.
Also, cue length is largely determined by your bridge length. If you're addressing the cueball with your backhand perpendicular to the horizontal plane, and assuming that you're not hanging off the bumper, your cue length should be fine. But I would say that anyone over 6' should at least try a longer cue; most would benefit from an extra inch or two, imo.
-Roger