Cue Maintenance?
- Thread starter Shooter08
- Start date
Depends what im getting done. A refinish? Prolly leave that to the builder. Tips, ferrules, etc., I'd definitely let another work on it. Besides i wouldnt want to wait 6 months for a tip bahahaha
Do you think the original cue builder may have a better method for his own equipment than another party? My concern is, if someone cleans my shaft they may screw up the taper or not know what the builder specialized in ferrule installation or style. If I got my cue back and played different I'd be heart broken.
Reason I ask.
My business partner does cue repair and I trust him, however I know he doesn't have the experiences of the builder of my two favorite shafts, Searing and Runde. Am I paranoid about him installing a new tip on one of these builders shafts, I am, is it irresponsible of me? I don't know.
My business partner does cue repair and I trust him, however I know he doesn't have the experiences of the builder of my two favorite shafts, Searing and Runde. Am I paranoid about him installing a new tip on one of these builders shafts, I am, is it irresponsible of me? I don't know.
Repairs
There are some things I would want the builder to do, But as cue repair man for 35 years now, I can say for simple things like tips and ferrules ,,a good repair man with experience can do the job with no worries , As far as a simple shaft cleaning there is no reason to even think about altering the shaft dia or ferrule, If a repair man gives you your shaft back after a simple cleaning and it's a different size then they don't know what they are doing and I would stay away from that person. There are many qualified good repairman around and you can find a good many of them here on AZ, Just ask around...
There are some things I would want the builder to do, But as cue repair man for 35 years now, I can say for simple things like tips and ferrules ,,a good repair man with experience can do the job with no worries , As far as a simple shaft cleaning there is no reason to even think about altering the shaft dia or ferrule, If a repair man gives you your shaft back after a simple cleaning and it's a different size then they don't know what they are doing and I would stay away from that person. There are many qualified good repairman around and you can find a good many of them here on AZ, Just ask around...
I have and would.
We have Ernie Martinez and Chris Byrne local.
Both are well qualified to do anything to any cue.
I had Ernie turn down my Downey shaft to 12.75 and he matched the size and taper of my favorite Lucasi shaft perfectly.
We have Ernie Martinez and Chris Byrne local.
Both are well qualified to do anything to any cue.
I had Ernie turn down my Downey shaft to 12.75 and he matched the size and taper of my favorite Lucasi shaft perfectly.
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Absolutely. Andy Gilbert lives nearby, and he and Vicky are good friends of mine.
I would trust him with my $45,000.00 Balabushka. If I had one. :smile:
I would trust him with my $45,000.00 Balabushka. If I had one. :smile:
I think things like tips especially are easy for any good repair person and I'd trust my cue to someone I trust who isn't the original builder. Having had one tip done by your partner I'll take him my Runde shaft for a new tip when the time comes without hesitation, he did great work on my samsara tip for my jump/break cue.
Turning down a shaft is a little bigger of a deal and if it was more than just a small change the original builder is definitely preferable. Was happy to be able to send my one shaft back to Bob to get turned down.
Any sort of refinish or major repair and I'd definitely want the original builder.
Not sure on a wrap, I suppose anyone who does a good wrap job can handle th task easily enough.
Absolutely....to think that no one else could retouch another cue-maker's work is common but under the right circumstances, it's absolutely okay..
There are some on the Forum, myself included, that really prefer the guy that made your cue to be the only person whom works on the pool cue.
I cannot imagine a Szamboti, Tascarella, JMW, BB, Manzino, Mobley, etc. ever thinking that it would be okay for any other cue-maker to repair their cues.
Even with the small number of cue-makers in my collection, I'd only want them to repair my cue but as I wrote, there's circumstances where it's okay to do otherwise.
Matt B.
There are some on the Forum, myself included, that really prefer the guy that made your cue to be the only person whom works on the pool cue.
I cannot imagine a Szamboti, Tascarella, JMW, BB, Manzino, Mobley, etc. ever thinking that it would be okay for any other cue-maker to repair their cues.
Even with the small number of cue-makers in my collection, I'd only want them to repair my cue but as I wrote, there's circumstances where it's okay to do otherwise.
Matt B.
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Hey Bava?
Do you like your cues with the ivory joint? I've got a Chad Carter Custom that has a ivory joint and ferrule. Its pretty much my #1 shooter.
r/Mike
Do you like your cues with the ivory joint? I've got a Chad Carter Custom that has a ivory joint and ferrule. Its pretty much my #1 shooter.
r/Mike
Why not just clean the shafts at home.
If you do a search on the forum there must be hundreds of threads about cleaning cue shafts.
It's really no big deal to do it at home.
I don't think my cue joint helps me really play any better and if I wrote that, or read that type post, I'd
be inclined to probably think "What a pompous person as if he knows more about cues than anyone else."
What I've learned from switching to strictly ivory joints is I enjoy playing the game a lot more using them.
There are different types of ivory joints and threads & personally, I'm an advocate of flat / big pin joints.
I think the cue weight is a big factor and it needs to be proportionately balanced with the weights of the
cue butt and the shafts, not referring to the cue's balance point. Obviously shaft size and tips are factors
that come into play but overall to my way of thinking, the weight relationship of the cue butt & the cue's
shafts are even more important for the overall anatomy of the custom cues that I have ordered.
Interestingly enough, the above touches upon something I discovered about flat ivory joint cues.
As the cue weight increases, I've found an accompanying reduction / loss in tactile feel of my cue's hit.
Through trial and experimentation, I've come up with a set of cue specs that produce the best results.
Let me clarify that a little. By playing withe different types of ivory joints and cue playing weights, I was
able to form an opinion of what I liked best....what felt best....which made it more enjoyable to play pool.
I had previously owned a wonderful Paul Mottey cue that had a piloted ivory joint and it also had a great
feel to its hit. Down through the years, I had heard that Paul is heralded as making the very best piloted joints.
Having owned a Mottey which was also one of my favorite playing cues, I can attest it's absolutely true.
So I am a big, big fan of ivory cue joints and ferrules. Sadly, Californian pool players are screwed big time.
Whereas some folks might think to themselves so what, he doesn't really need any more cues.
Those folks are right but how about "anyone" interested in ordering a Gina, Prewitt or Cohen cue.
The days of ivory are over in another month and soon there won't be any more made using ivory.
I feel fortunate to have assembled my collection, especially the Prewitt cue which is a real dandy.
Matt B.
be inclined to probably think "What a pompous person as if he knows more about cues than anyone else."
What I've learned from switching to strictly ivory joints is I enjoy playing the game a lot more using them.
There are different types of ivory joints and threads & personally, I'm an advocate of flat / big pin joints.
I think the cue weight is a big factor and it needs to be proportionately balanced with the weights of the
cue butt and the shafts, not referring to the cue's balance point. Obviously shaft size and tips are factors
that come into play but overall to my way of thinking, the weight relationship of the cue butt & the cue's
shafts are even more important for the overall anatomy of the custom cues that I have ordered.
Interestingly enough, the above touches upon something I discovered about flat ivory joint cues.
As the cue weight increases, I've found an accompanying reduction / loss in tactile feel of my cue's hit.
Through trial and experimentation, I've come up with a set of cue specs that produce the best results.
Let me clarify that a little. By playing withe different types of ivory joints and cue playing weights, I was
able to form an opinion of what I liked best....what felt best....which made it more enjoyable to play pool.
I had previously owned a wonderful Paul Mottey cue that had a piloted ivory joint and it also had a great
feel to its hit. Down through the years, I had heard that Paul is heralded as making the very best piloted joints.
Having owned a Mottey which was also one of my favorite playing cues, I can attest it's absolutely true.
So I am a big, big fan of ivory cue joints and ferrules. Sadly, Californian pool players are screwed big time.
Whereas some folks might think to themselves so what, he doesn't really need any more cues.
Those folks are right but how about "anyone" interested in ordering a Gina, Prewitt or Cohen cue.
The days of ivory are over in another month and soon there won't be any more made using ivory.
I feel fortunate to have assembled my collection, especially the Prewitt cue which is a real dandy.
Matt B.