Cueball Close 2 Rail

TheConArtist

Daddy's A Butcher
Silver Member
I always have problems with these kinds of shots, take in mind i am using point and pivot to aim, and when i do this i always aim low on the cueball you know like Francisco and i cant do this cause the cueball. What kind of tips or what do you guys do when the cueball lays frozen on or to close 2 the rail. Do you guys just rely on a good stroke and smooth follow thru.? Thanks.

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Perhaps you're missing because your stroke is bad. (Not hitting center cue ball)
 

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I find alot of players hate these shots, and have seen top players miss shots where the cueball is close 2 the rail. I miss alot of these shots but not all the time i just have trouble with them, so what i was asking is whatever aiming system you use does this shot change it, cause i know i use the bottom of the cueball to line up shots alot and i can not do this cause i can not see the bottom of the cueball.
 
masse shot

You are shooting a masse shot. Tough to make with some distance between the balls and the object ball a good ways from the pocket too. Tougher yet if you don't consider that it is a masse shot and make allowances.

Speaking for myself, I consider options. Often I am better off to shoot a bank shot than the "straight in" shot when the bank shot allows me to lower the cue stick a bit and get a more preferred contact point on the cue ball. I routinely shoot a lot of follow shots for position too rather than almost always relying on draw so hitting the cueball a little higher with the stick more level isn't an uncomfortable shot for me.

One key is focusing on making the shot and accepting that you may have less fine position play on the next ball. If you aren't playing safety the goal is to keep the run alive and adding difficulty to an already tough shot you are taking to try to get an easy shot on the next ball instead of just a makable shot isn't the way to do it.

Everything I have written is basic, but that is what is needed to make tough shots, a return to basics.

Hu


TheConArtist said:
I always have problems with these kinds of shots, take in mind i am using point and pivot to aim, and when i do this i always aim low on the cueball you know like Francisco and i cant do this cause the cueball. What kind of tips or what do you guys do when the cueball lays frozen on or to close 2 the rail. Do you guys just rely on a good stroke and smooth follow thru.? Thanks.
 
These shots for me are tough.

A few things here;

Lots of good players try to never leave the cue ball on the rail for this very reason.

Also, one thing I sometimes will do is, on the final stroke, still look at the cue ball, instead of the object ball on this type of shot.

This is because it is hard to hit center ball when you are hitting that high on the cue ball, and we may be introducing squirt and throw into the equation, when we really don't intend to at all.

One practice technique for me is to "lag" cross table, or lengthwise and try to have the cue ball come back to my tip with the cue ball frozen or close to the rail.

It's surprising how far off we can be sometimes! We can also see the amont of spin clearly comming off the rail.

I hope this helps. I play on a lot of bar tables, and these types of shot come up frequently do to the small size table dimensions.
 
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Gregg said:
These shots for me are tough.

A few things here;

Lots of good players try to never leave the cue ball on the rail for this very reason.

Also, one thing I sometimes will do is, on the final stroke, still look at the cue ball, instead of the object ball on this type of shot.

This is because it is hard to hit center ball when you are hitting that high on the cue ball, and we may be introducing squirt and throw into the equation, when we really don't intend to at all.

One practice technique for me is to "lag" cross table, or lengthwise and try to have the cue ball come back to my tip with the cue ball frozen or close to the rail.

It's surprising how far off we can be sometimes! We can also see the amont of spin clearly comming off the rail.

I hope this helps. I play on a lot of bar tables, and these types of shot come up frequently do to the small size table dimensions.

Thanks Gregg, i find these shots alot on league nights too bar tables, the rails are really high on them compared to the other tables i play on. I might just have to do what i use to do when i was a kid and use the butt of the cue and place it between the rail and cueball j/k lol. I still see people doing this around here.
 
For some reason, this type of shot seems to come up pretty routinely on one of the snooker tables I play on. Needless to say, after shooting a few hundred of these on a snooker table, the shot seems to get much less intimidating. I will say, I really don't think it's that tough a shot if you just remember to keep your cue level. After that, IMHO, making the shot is mostly a matter of staying focused and hitting center ball.
 
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I don't know exqctly what aim system you use??

TheConArtist said:
I find alot of players hate these shots, and have seen top players miss shots where the cueball is close 2 the rail. I miss alot of these shots but not all the time i just have trouble with them, so what i was asking is whatever aiming system you use does this shot change it, cause i know i use the bottom of the cueball to line up shots alot and i can not do this cause i can not see the bottom of the cueball.

When I aim, I'm mentally projecting from center ball relative to the planar surface of the table. I use a specific system of aiming that gives true contact points for both CB and OB, which is necesary for proper aimline.
 
When i'm cueing these type of i always like to have a few practice strokes going above the cueball before i get down a cue it properly. For me it just takes my mind off the stroke and i can cocentrate more on making the ball.
 
one thing i always have to remember about rail shots is since you are shooting with such a short bridge to bring your hand up the wrap so that your arm is still hanging down perpendicular to the floor.
 
sighting

When you are on the rail sighting is even more crucial. When you go down on the shot keep your bridge hand at the edge of the rail out of your way, just drop it there. Focus CB through OB ball aiming points. Slide bridge hand in position using as low profile of bridge as possible,, hold cue still as you are still focusing on both balls,,now go in to your pre stroke.. Try not to use long or quick preliminary strokes.
 
Jaden said:
When I aim, I'm mentally projecting from center ball relative to the planar surface of the table. I use a specific system of aiming that gives true contact points for both CB and OB, which is necesary for proper aimline.

Would love to hear more about this if you don't mind,

scottycoyote said:
one thing i always have to remember about rail shots is since you are shooting with such a short bridge to bring your hand up the wrap so that your arm is still hanging down perpendicular to the floor.

Very good advice,
 
For aim and pivot, I find that I can aim dead center, then pivot (use english) and get the cue ball to go to the same spot at the far end of the table as a dead center hit.

However if I am making a cut shot, this will not pocket the ball the same as aiming for a dead center hit would. If the cue ball is spinning, I need to aim slightly differently depending on which way the cue ball is spinning.

Also with a cue ball frozen to a rail, I find I am more consistent using a closed bridge.

To get *really* good at these shots, use chalk to mark the location of the cue ball and object ball. Then shoot the darn thing 100 times. Same exact shot 100 times. Experiment with center hit, left english, right english, closed bridge, open bridge, etc.

Then setup the the same shot, except a mirror image, on opposite side of table and shoot that 100 times.

I have been bad at shots which seldom come up in a game, then practice the heck out of that specific shot, then get to be quite good at it...
 
this is one of the shots i was having trouble with - and still do, of course. Tom "Dr Cue" Rossman explained it to me this way. when the cue ball rests on the rail, professionals simply pretend the rail is not there, and that they intend on hitting high on the cue ball anyway.

however, if you have to put left or right english on a shot like this, that is very, very difficult. you better practice this alot.

i used to take those circular tubes that cues come in, lay one on the table, line up the cue ball over it, and practice shooting over it to simulate both having to shoot over a rail, and a ball.

DCP
 
when i practice i play ghost ball with all the balls on the table and run the rack using nothing but left spin then do this again using right spin, but i never tried this with the cueball on the rail, and i always use a open bridge so i am going to give the close bridge a try. Do you guys have a pause on the backstroke with this kind of shot or do you just have a short backswing rather then a long fluid stroke. Thanks for the replies. Cole.
 
What i found that works for me on these type of shots is: I apply some extra
pressure to my bridge to make sure it is solid, then i put more weight on my
foot that is forward, (my left foot) and i make sure the only thing moving on my body is stroking arm from the elbow. This helps me hit the cue ball in the center and i use a nice level stroke.:)
 
Level, Smooth, Open, Speed

TheConArtist said:
I always have problems with these kinds of shots, take in mind i am using point and pivot to aim, and when i do this i always aim low on the cueball you know like Francisco and i cant do this cause the cueball. What kind of tips or what do you guys do when the cueball lays frozen on or to close 2 the rail. Do you guys just rely on a good stroke and smooth follow thru.? Thanks.

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Con,
The diagram shows a back cut, and you are addressing the rail at an angle, both of which make the shot tougher than just off the rail. I get very basic, use ghost ball for aiming, make certain the cue is level (so you are hitting with follow) and not jacked-up (so as not to impart squirt/swerve), an open bridge as low as possible (normally I used closed bridge, but here I want the cue low, essentially resting on the rail), and only use speed to position the CB after the shot. Any sort of left/right english is just gonna screw up the aiming I figure.
 
I noticed in another post you said the pivot point for your cue was 10 to 15 inches. This could also be part of the problem if you can't get a long enough bridge, on a cue ball frozen to rail shot. So cue ball would be deflecting a little when using english.

This is why I got a low deflection shaft which places the pivot point way back where I grip the butt of the cue. Then I can use short or long bridges and move my front hand left/right to apply english (keeping my backhand still).
 
Billy_Bob said:
I noticed in another post you said the pivot point for your cue was 10 to 15 inches. This could also be part of the problem if you can't get a long enough bridge, on a cue ball frozen to rail shot. So cue ball would be deflecting a little when using english.

This is why I got a low deflection shaft which places the pivot point way back where I grip the butt of the cue. Then I can use short or long bridges and move my front hand left/right to apply english (keeping my backhand still).

never took that into thought, interesting. What kind of shaft do you have Billy Bob?
 
TheConArtist said:
I always have problems with these kinds of shots, take in mind i am using point and pivot to aim, and when i do this i always aim low on the cueball you know like Francisco and i cant do this cause the cueball.

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Swerve is tremendously high on this shot, if you are using english.

If you are doing a stick aiming and mostly hitting centerball, you need to bridge differently if you are having a problem pivoting. I go with an open hand on the rail for a pivot aiming system.

Which side do you normally miss? Thick side?

Fred <~~~ it's the dreaded blind back cut, off the rail
 
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