Cuemakers...poll on cue joint size...

Which joint size is the closest to what you normally use?

  • .860 or above

    Votes: 3 7.3%
  • .855

    Votes: 3 7.3%
  • .850

    Votes: 11 26.8%
  • .845

    Votes: 6 14.6%
  • .840

    Votes: 13 31.7%
  • .835

    Votes: 4 9.8%
  • .830 or below

    Votes: 1 2.4%

  • Total voters
    41

jazznpool

Superior Cues--Unchalked!
Gold Member
Silver Member
I'm fortunate to be able to help out and learn at a seasoned cuemaker's shop. His joint size is usually .849 to .850". What joint size do you normally use and how did you come to favor that size? I'm told the industry standard is .840. I'm trying to figure out what joint size I'll use when the time comes to make my own cues. Not trying to start any controversy, but merely spark discussion on the merits of the differences. Thanks, Martin
 
Last edited:
Martin,
I use 2 different sizes depending on the joint style. I use .835 on my steel joint cues & .840 on my phenolic (& other) jointed cues. I've settled on these sizes I guess, because of 'industry standards'. Schon, about the time I started was .835 & .840 on my phenolics just works for me. I don't know that .010 either way would amount to anything & I'm not out to buck the norm unless there's a real good reason to do so.
 
jazznpool said:
I'm fortunate to be able to help out and learn at a seasoned cuemaker's shop. His joint size is usually .849 to .850". What joint size do you normally use and how did you come to favor that size? I'm told the industry standard is .840. I'm trying to figure out what joint size I'll use when the time comes to make my own cues. Not trying to start any controvesy, but merely discussion on the merits of the differences. Thanks, Martin

If there is one Standard in cue building it is that there is absolutely no "industry standard" anything. If it works for you then that is what works for you.

Dick
 
I settled on .845 myself. I don't think there was a specific reason other than maybe due to the taper I was using at the time. It has worked out well as my shafts usally fit most other cues pretty well. As for making your own it dosen't really matter and people buying non fitted shafts are not all that common anyway. I think i only sell around 3 - 5 shafts a year where someone just sees the pin I use and buys a shaft on the spot that dosen't even match their cue just to have a new shaft. I have always offered to make them one that will match but a few people don't care they just want a new shaft that day. The number of people who buy that way is so small I don't think I would concern myself whit that when making your decision.
My 2 cents Chris.
 
jazznpool said:
I'm fortunate to be able to help out and learn at a seasoned cuemaker's shop. His joint size is usually .849 to .850". What joint size do you normally use and how did you come to favor that size? I'm told the industry standard is .840. I'm trying to figure out what joint size I'll use when the time comes to make my own cues. Not trying to start any controvesy, but merely discussion on the merits of the differences. Thanks, Martin

Hey Martin, I normally build to players Preference, but I like a larger joint, I preffer .870 for Jump Break Cues, and .860 for shooting cues.
 
I use a bigger pin with no inserts in the shaft so I don't like to go smaller than 840 and generally no larger than 870.
It depends a lot on what woods are in the cue...what taper is used...what I am trying to get for a final weight and how stiff I want it.
I can't settle on one specific size for all cues....it just doesn't work for me.
I like to keep the options open.
The smallest I've seen for big pins are a SW style cue @ 825.
I've seen some monsters at around 880 and 885.......
 
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