Cues vs baseball cards

classiccues

Morgan set complete...
Silver Member
So let me ask...

Whats more important... Mint.... or Original... or both?

If a cue was being sold as Mint / Unplayed.. and was played, but refinished and cleaned, can you justify it as mint / unplayed, or would you like to see it described as mint / unplayed after restoration? Should a few dealers, or one of the cue organizations strive to achieve a common set of terms to describe a cue more accurately?

Is restoration to strong a word to use in describing a refinish and shaft cleaning? Do you want to know the restorer? As a buyer, I definately would. In the past I had bought a cue that was told to me to be all original and I found it in the gallery on the proficient website. That is why I ask. We try to be as accurate as possible, if I sent a cue to Scot at Proficient, I'll list it as such, or to Tascarella, or James White, etc..

Baseball cards have a grading system, as do a lot of collectibles. However, you cannot play baseball with a baseball card so the abuse is limited.

This question is pertaining to newer cues, Boti's, Bushka's that's another discussion entirely.

JV
 
To add to this interesting discussion? Does test hitting a cue equates to it being played in the first place. I purchased a cue that was supposed advertised as mint and unplayed. Upon receiving it, not only did i found chalk residue at the side of the tip but also when i wiped the shaft with cue doctor, the napkin that was used in the application of the lotion had a slight bluish residue. So point is what really defines the cue as unplayed or mint?
 
i personally would want to know if it was refinished although truthfully most but not all times you can just tell by looking at a cue in pictures and in person if has been refinished or cleaned! jmo
 
i personally would want to know if it was refinished although truthfully most but not all times you can just tell by looking at a cue in pictures and in person if has been refinished or cleaned! jmo

I agree.I always would like to know as much as possible about what I'm buying.A lot depends on why I'm buying a cue.If I was buying a older R series I would rather them be as original as possible.That way if it has any issues I would have control on who and how it's repaired.That way your able to keep as much of it period correct for my collection.I feel that older ''collectible'' cues do hold their value more if they are kept as original as possible and or restored as such.Just my 2 cents.

JR
 
A lot depends on who does the refinish. If you have a Barry or a Searing and they do the refinishing on their own cue, then it should be considered mint.
 
This is an issue which comes up often in collectibles.

I dabble in antique cameras, and here are some good guidelines that reputable used/antique camera dealers adhere to and perhaps cue dealers should adopt:

New and unused would be like new in box, or "NIB" in cameras ... meaning it is what has been stated, effectively brand new. Perhaps handled by a prospective buyer and the shutter clicked or a ball hit but film never actually has been loaded with a camera or the cue has never been chalked.

MINT = Used but indiscernible from new other than upon extremely close inspection, may contain a minute mark in the original finish of a camera but nothing to the brass ... in a cue I would say a non blued shaft, nothing chalked but the tip which is still at least 90% of the original tip intact.

MINT MINUS = Signs that it has been used, such as minor rub marks by the strap lugs or minor rub marks near the tripod socket, but mistakeable for new by a casual observer when in use. 95% to 99% of the original finish. With a cue this might be a minor chalk grinding line on the ferrule and a tiny bit of wear from taking in and out of the case.

RESTORED = Equals exactly that. Cues, cars, cameras, they are all only "NEW" once. A restore/refinish can get something looking extremely nice ... it cannot make it new or mint again. Similar to a vintage car ... a 1957 BelAir with nice original yet imperfect paint and 40,000 tender miles is worth far more than a repainted rebuild any day.

LWW
 
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