Custom cue enthusiasts, talk about point gap

Point gaps in a short splice forearm?

  • Total voters
    27
ideologist

ideologist

I don't never exaggerate
Silver Member
Specifically, the gaps between the points on a short splice cue. This really doesn't apply to a fullsplice.

Tons of makers offer 4 pointers, or even 6 pointers (so much worse), with gaps between the bases of the points where they meet the top of the handle or wrap.

Does this bother you?

How can some of the cues out there fetch such luxurious pricing when the points have obvious gaps?

Even the highest echelon cuemakers do this. It absolutely does not make a cue play better to hang the tenon on the forearm, either. It's 2015, you can stick the tenon wherever you want, and with modern composite materials and epoxies, it truly does not matter.

Who agrees, who doesn't?

For 4 pointers, it is clear that the cue is cut on the lathe. I know that is how things are done today, but this was to make it easier. Making things easier typically makes them go faster. Most cuemakers who do this are charging prices that do not reflect the ease of use in cutting forearms like this. Why are you willing to pay for that?

For 6 pointers, I know exactly why Southwest does it: they want to cut all the points in one shot. 12 year wait list, then they rush it out. A $2500 cue should have those rich, overlapping points. It takes 2 sessions of cutting and gluing, and looks so much nicer.


I've really been digging into forearm construction lately and just becoming more stunned at what I'm seeing from a lot of makers.
 
Here are a few examples (I just grabbed the first 3 I encountered and hid the names, but there are MANY cues like this and much worse). For the custom buyers, how is this acceptable in a cue that costs well north of $1000??

If the points were closed up, how much more would the cues be worth? If a new maker were doing this, how much could he get out of those cues?
 
Those aren't even that bad. I've seen huge gaps. I think that's very acceptable to most guys and just the way they do them or if older the way they did them at that time.

I like them tight but I know there's some serious math involved in the planning.

I've been told it's usually a cuemakers earlier work or maybe just not as good at doing them yet when they look like this... This is an old cue.

feb8b2c86c02eef3dba954bb195357ab.jpg



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I prefer point gaps be less than 3/16" but other elements of the cue build have a higher level of importance to me.
 
Look at these in relation of age.

Left to right first pic:

1. Mid 80's- huge gaps but spaced that way for bridged veneers
2. Mid 80's- typical spacing
3. 2000- closer
4. N/A

3rd pic
EARLY Scruggs 78'-82'- short and thin points with big gap.

491c3468c4e22946f96fd6bc226979de.jpg

825c56645b7ceda83d73664a5552223c.jpg

d60172aead28b7be68c8ca089862fafc.jpg



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To me the points and veneers are the center piece per say.

I guess they catch my eye first.


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Billiardbills said:
To me the points and veneers are the center piece per say.

I guess they catch my eye first.


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Click to expand...



They absolutely are the centerpiece. Look at Kenny Murrell and Murray Tucker.

Their points are perfect.

Even some of the BIGs, they have gaps that are noticeably large.
 
I prefer them.

In your original photo (with the purple outer-most veneers), if there was no gap you'd have the purple veneer butting right up next to another purple veneer. To me it's more appealing to have the purple veneers separated by maple (the maple should be twice the width of one veneer...if I was going to be picky).

Besides, cues with a gap between the points play better than those without a gap. They hit a ton. :grin:
 
It's all about perspective. I believe my cue looks best with a gap because of the point length.

Seems my picture likes to upload sideways....
 
Aloha Ideologist

You say you have been studying how to cut points and cue construction. This is good, once you attempt to cut "V" groove points for a short splice cue, you will understand. You may like to be opinionated about how it looks, but trying to get the points close for a four point cue can be a real work of art.

Think for just one sec about what would happen to your forearm if you were to cut 4 "V" groove points down to 1/16" between the points. That is .0625" between each one. That does not leave a lot of support when you are cutting something between centers. Now if you go too far.....you had better get yourself some more forearm wood.

I hope you can see were the issues are in this. You have to think of all the dimensions involved, length of cut for the point, depth of cut from how far out it is tapered. Now I'm not saying it is impossible to do for a 4 point cue. There are just some variables you are not seeing in the construction of these cues.

Now 5 or 6 points are not so hard to get close. Think about it for a second and I'm sure you will get it. If not let me know and I will try and draw it out for you.

Aloha
 
Perhaps you should ask yourself the purpose of those gaps and also consider whether the points are deep inlays or v shaped prongs.
 
pathman said:
This is how it's done boys!! Best points I've ever seen. http://forums.azbilliards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=391731&stc=1&d=1437932996
Click to expand...


Not to me. It's all about esthetics and balance. Points IMO should have a small gap at the base. It just looks better and more balanced.

Large gaps are ugly. Not having any gap is not my preference. It may be for some and I have no problem with that. ( that said I still want a John S cue :) )...For anyone to say small gaped prongs are inferior in any way from construction to desirability is nonsense...

There is one good thing about you guys who don't like gaps.. You can send me all your Szambotis, Searings, Szamboti front Bushkas, Gina's, SW, Kersenbrock,... I'll take em' ALL :)
 
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Unless there is a specific theory/reason for it most cuemakers I know will adjust the gap per the customers request. Frankly it is rarely mentioned from most of my customers who custom order a cue. That is the benefit of dealing with the builder directly, you can get exactly what you want. I see far more interest in bridged veneers than touching points.
 
I like a small gap in a short splice forearm. To me, going to no gap is trying to look like a full splice blank and if that's what is wanted then I'd prefer to just go full splice for the cue.

I don't like a large gap though, I've looked at some nice cues from very well regarded makers lately thst have skinny looking point with a large gap at the base and that just doesn't work for me.
 
skins said:
Not to me. It's all about esthetics and balance. Points IMO should have a small gap at the base. It just looks better and more balanced.

Large gaps are ugly. Not having any gap is not my preference. It may be for some and I have no problem with that. ( that said I still want a John S cue :) )...For anyone to say small gaped prongs are inferior in any way from construction to desirability is nonsense...

There is one good thing about you guys who don't like gaps.. You can send me all your Szambotis, Searings, Szamboti front Bushkas, Gina's, SW, Kersenbrock,... I'll take em' ALL :)
Click to expand...

LOL! To tell the truth, I never noticed the "gap" on my 4 pointed Josey. Doesn't bother me a bit...nice to know that these masters also used the "gap".
 
The only times I don't mind gaps, are when the splices have butterflies between them or when the splices are boxed at the end.

If I'm paying big bucks, I want big work.
 
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