Custom Cue Questions for a first time buyer?

Zphix

Zphix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been posting a lot and this is my last post for a while haha. I'm going to get a custom sneaky pete made and I have a few questions for you guys who have bought customs before:

1) How creative and specific can you get?

2) What do you get to decide on? Everything, just the pieces you want in it, etc.

3) I've heard that some makers will start building a cue with a down payment, then will ship the cue out after complete payment, is that true?

4) Do custom cue makers use weight bolts? Like online when I see, 19.2 oz, I assume that's with a weight bolt, right?

Just checking these things out, I'd hate to accidentally offend a cue maker by overstepping some common boundaries. Thanks fellas!
 
Zphix said:
I've been posting a lot and this is my last post for a while haha. I'm going to get a custom sneaky pete made and I have a few questions for you guys who have bought customs before:

1) How creative and specific can you get?

2) What do you get to decide on? Everything, just the pieces you want in it, etc.

3) I've heard that some makers will start building a cue with a down payment, then will ship the cue out after complete payment, is that true?

4) Do custom cue makers use weight bolts? Like online when I see, 19.2 oz, I assume that's with a weight bolt, right?

Just checking these things out, I'd hate to accidentally offend a cue maker by overstepping some common boundaries. Thanks fellas!
Click to expand...

You can get as creative as you'd like depending on the maker and your budget.

You can choose your wood combinations, inlays, etc.... Some will give you many options even custom inlay work.

As for weight bolts, that depends on your desired weight...

Most take a down payment and the balance is due upon completion of the cue..

That said one good option is Keith Josey.. He'll make pretty much whatever you want..
 
Zphix said:
I've been posting a lot and this is my last post for a while haha. I'm going to get a custom sneaky pete made and I have a few questions for you guys who have bought customs before:

1) How creative and specific can you get?

2) What do you get to decide on? Everything, just the pieces you want in it, etc.

3) I've heard that some makers will start building a cue with a down payment, then will ship the cue out after complete payment, is that true?

4) Do custom cue makers use weight bolts? Like online when I see, 19.2 oz, I assume that's with a weight bolt, right?

Just checking these things out, I'd hate to accidentally offend a cue maker by overstepping some common boundaries. Thanks fellas!
Click to expand...

Here is how I see it......

If you want to design a cue yourself then you can basically get any cue maker to do so, granted that he is good at doing so and he is trustworthy. The reason why I say this is to keep cost down.

If you want to get a higher end cue from a top cue maker, then I would just let the cue maker design it himself. I want his work and his vision and it tends to hold much more value.

An example, if you were to ask Picasso to paint a portrait of you, wouldn't you let him have his creative freedom and to do it in his style? You wouldn't want Jackson Pollack to dabble in water painting would you?

So you don't want someone like Tascarella or Szamboti make you a butterfly-style cue.
 
Custom cues

If you are going to have a sneaky pete made make sure it has joint collars because the collar less shafts seem to be fragile and split at the joint.

Weight bolts are not really a problem, normally there is enough room to put in a ebony bolt if the customer hates metal.

Normally sneaky petes look like a bar cue cut down, but you can get any wrap you want and have it made with any wood.
 
Go to a Billiard Supply store and try out a bunch of GOOD 1 piece cues out. When you find one you like, buy it and have a Cuemaker make it a REAL Sneaky Pete. Johnnyt
 
1) How creative and specific can you get?
As creative as your mind and cue builder skills will allow.

2) What do you get to decide on? Everything, just the pieces you want in it, etc.
Everything providing you have the knowledge. As a first time buyer, you may be better off allowing the cue builder to lead you on construction and construction materials. Inlays and decor should be left to you!

3) I've heard that some makers will start building a cue with a down payment, then will ship the cue out after complete payment, is that true?
YES - depending on the cue maker. however if you are a first time buyer and you have a friend that can vouch for you ALL THE BETTER :thumbup:

4) Do custom cue makers use weight bolts? Like online when I see, 19.2 oz, I assume that's with a weight bolt, right?
Better to ask the cue maker directly. This is one of the many things you can discuss within the design process.

Good luck and have FUN :thumbup:

Just checking these things out, I'd hate to accidentally offend a cue maker by overstepping some common boundaries. Thanks fellas!
No cue make should be offended by a first time customer. The process of building a cue is an education within itself.
Good Cue Maker = GREAT TEACHER! :thumbup:
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
If you are going to have a sneaky pete made make sure it has joint collars because the collar less shafts seem to be fragile and split at the joint.

Weight bolts are not really a problem, normally there is enough room to put in a ebony bolt if the customer hates metal.

Normally sneaky petes look like a bar cue cut down, but you can get any wrap you want and have it made with any wood.
Click to expand...

Can you still get a wood to wood joint that's collared?
Then, how do collars affect hit? I know steel usually plays stiffer, implex somewhere in between, etc.
 
dom_poppa said:
Here is how I see it......

If you want to design a cue yourself then you can basically get any cue maker to do so, granted that he is good at doing so and he is trustworthy. The reason why I say this is to keep cost down........
Click to expand...

In many circumstances Keith Josey will do custom inlay work at no additional charge if the work is comparable to what he already offers. Designing a cue yourself does not have to mean more $.
 
wood to wood Joint

Zphix said:
Can you still get a wood to wood joint that's collared?
Then, how do collars affect hit? I know steel usually plays stiffer, implex somewhere in between, etc.
Click to expand...

Yes you can get a wood to wood joint collar less or collared.

Get the collared joint..............................
 
Let me give you some advice that will serve you well if heeded.

Last May I received my first custom cue and I designed it.......I was very detailed.......probably more than 99+% of the people ordering pool cues........and Bob Owen indulged my every whim and sadly, I will concede that although it was not intentional, I over-designed my cue.......I made it too busy.....too colorful.

Why did I order a custom cue and why did I screw up the design? I ordered a custom because I could never find a cue that has the specs I wanted........and it wasn't my budget either.......nor time that kept me from finding my cue.......so I had one made exactly the way I wanted........and the cue plays amazing.........but I over-designed the cue.

So after that experience, I had another custom cue made by Jerry Rauenzahn and this time I was more conservative in my approach to the cue design. Instead ot specifying exactly what I wanted in the design, I worked with the cue-maker and shared with him what I liked and didn't like in cue designs. At one point, I submitted a cue design and he let me know that the design I asked for would render the cue heavier than the 18.25 - 18.5 ozs I wanted as a cue weight........heck, the design I sent Jerry had twelve 3 mm copper metal rings but I did not appreciate the resultant weight contribution. So I allowed Jerry to modify the design along the way and we collaborated and the cue turned out magnificent.

So when you start on having your cue built, allow the cue-maker to guide you through the process and let them know what you want. Nonetheless, you need to allow the cue-maker some flexibility and by all means, ask questions and their opinion of the design. Listen to their remarks about your design and heed them.......your cue design will be more satisfying if you do this.

At some point I might post the drawing I submitted to Bob Owen and a photo of the cue he made.......Bob did a marvelous job........a much better job of making the cue than I did designing it. So avoid the pitfall of making your cue too fancy or busy just because you can. Thank goodness my Owen cue hits so damn great which more than compensates for my artistic screw-up......Nuf Ced.

Matt B
 
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If this is your first custom, and it's a sneaky, go as simple as possible, IMHO. the cue bug is strong, and you will probably go through too many cues, it's a side affect of AZ. The secondary market has fallen for a few reasons, but mainly due to too many cue makers making quality cues. We are in the second golden age of pool cue technology and it is affecting sales, I a negative way. When 10 guys across the country made spectacular cues in the 60/70's with a table saw and a lathe, the demand is high. When hundreds of cue builders, who generally are retired machinists it would seem, are creating spectacular results with better technology that is available to the masses, the market becomes flooded. Unless you are buying a searing or Szamboti, your cue value will drop in the years to come. Save your money for a really nice used cue with all the bells and whistles for 1/3 of retail, which is what some of these great playing and high quality cues from various builders are selling for now.
 
Thanks for the advice so far guys - my cue design is really simple.

Full splice 4 point Bocote butt, wood to wood joint (have to determine the collar material), radial pin, LD 11.75mm or 12mm shaft with a soft tip. As light as humanly possible weight wise.

I have more questions for the makers though. I really do appreciate all of your input fellas!

EDIT: I decided on black linen phenolic joint collars. Three cue makers suggested them.
 
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Today I sent the down payment to Steve Klapp to do my cue =P

Going to run me $400 total and I'm super excited!

Getting a Bocote four point full splice cue, with wood to wood black phenolic collared joint, radial pin, and a Klapp LD shaft (he said he's been making LD shafts with 8 pieces, similar to Predators 10) with a soft tip.

This should be fun.
 
Seems to me you are going to end up with a very nice playing cue. Enjoy it when it arrives, but also enjoy the anticipation...:)
 
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