Sir:
First let me CONGRATULATE You on building that pool table. That was
quite an accomplishment to say the least.
I would very much like to see the pictures how you cut the angles on the rails and anything else that you would like to send me.
I enjoy woodworking and would like to see how it was done.
Good Job,
Thanks,
BEN
l
Speedi, you now have a bada$$ table that you have built yourself! Great looking and thanks for sharing.
No trace of ball hop. I was careful to glue cushions at 1 7/16, using a height gauge that I made for the purpose. Is there another condition that you think might cause hop?
Thanks.
The reason I asked is because K66 cushions play at their best when the sub-rail is set at 1 5/8" thick, with a nose height of 1 3/8". K55 cushions play their best when the sub-rail is 1 11/16" thick and a nose height of 1 29/64"ths...but no cushions really play at their best with a sub-rail thickness of 1 3/4" because it sets the back-end of the cushions to high up and causes the cushion to nose down more to get the nose height to 1 7/16"ths. Lowering the back of the cushions to kind of level them out more makes a huge difference in how the balls react when they come in contact with the cushions. When you have a downhill effect in the profile of the cushions you end up with the cushions playing very fast, like the cushion nose height is to low...even though it's not, and in time the balls will start to spring off the cushions when friction starts to come into play, like when the cloth starts to wear, balls lose their newness, cloth/balls become dirty, humidity sets in.
But you did a great job of building your pool table, I know what kind of task that is as I've built over 500 tables myself over the years, including 128 coin-operated pool tables, which is what got me involved with Diamond Billiards in the first place....they wanted to build coin-operated pool tables....and I knew how...the rest is history so-to-speak![]()
The reason I asked is because K66 cushions play at their best when the sub-rail is set at 1 5/8" thick, with a nose height of 1 3/8". K55 cushions play their best when the sub-rail is 1 11/16" thick and a nose height of 1 29/64"ths...but no cushions really play at their best with a sub-rail thickness of 1 3/4" because it sets the back-end of the cushions to high up and causes the cushion to nose down more to get the nose height to 1 7/16"ths. Lowering the back of the cushions to kind of level them out more makes a huge difference in how the balls react when they come in contact with the cushions. When you have a downhill effect in the profile of the cushions you end up with the cushions playing very fast, like the cushion nose height is to low...even though it's not, and in time the balls will start to spring off the cushions when friction starts to come into play, like when the cloth starts to wear, balls lose their newness, cloth/balls become dirty, humidity sets in.
But you did a great job of building your pool table, I know what kind of task that is as I've built over 500 tables myself over the years, including 128 coin-operated pool tables, which is what got me involved with Diamond Billiards in the first place....they wanted to build coin-operated pool tables....and I knew how...the rest is history so-to-speak![]()
Dang it, you're one month early for the one year anniversary of the last post. Just what are you trolling for that necessitated reviving this thread?