dedicated coring lathe

qbilder said:
:scratchhead: Perhaps I'm a bit dumb, but I do not understand the need for a rear chuck. It's a coring lathe. A bearing rest would suffice. Heck, if the dowels were machined to fit snugly in the bearing rest, it would be more accurate than a rear chuck, anyway. Just a simple bushing that slips on the dowel & fits the ID of the spindle would work just fine. Cue making doesn't have to be complicated.
Click to expand...

You're not dumb, far from it. Your questions and advice are a benefit to the discussion.

I use the rear chuck and a Delrin dead center the keep the exit end more stable. The chuck really doesn't care what size the wood is and I know it's engaging. I also put a hose clamp on the already bore exit end to prevent any possible blow out. I'm sure it could be made simpler, but I'm doing it on my main lathe and there's a chuck on it already.

I still don't understand buying a new lathe just for coring, less even for the one you are considering.

g4003 3125.00 shipped
Stand 444.00 shipped or make on out of wood for 100-200.00, keeping in mind you are supporting 1000 lbs.
 
pescadoman said:
I still don't understand buying a new lathe just for coring, less even for the one you are considering.

g4003 3125.00 shipped
Stand 444.00 shipped or make on out of wood for 100-200.00, keeping in mind you are supporting 1000 lbs.
Click to expand...

I can understand him wanting a new lathe. I'd probably do the same. If a good used lathe were readily available & cheap, I'd maybe buy used. Otherwise, it's a PIA searching for, paying for, and working out shipping on a used machine. The aggravation (or lack of) has a value.
 
qbilder said:
I can understand him wanting a new lathe. I'd probably do the same. If a good used lathe were readily available & cheap, I'd maybe buy used. Otherwise, it's a PIA searching for, paying for, and working out shipping on a used machine. The aggravation (or lack of) has a value.
Click to expand...

I get that, but the one he is looking at is a compromise. Searching and finding is part of the fun for me.

This one has a 1.375 spindle hole tho, but it's 1400.00 cheaper AND comes with a bunch of tooling that he could use or resell. It's probably long gone...

About 2 hours from him..
 

Attachments

  • logan.jpg
    logan.jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 306
pescadoman said:
You're not dumb, far from it. Your questions and advice are a benefit to the discussion.

I use the rear chuck and a Delrin dead center the keep the exit end more stable. The chuck really doesn't care what size the wood is and I know it's engaging. I also put a hose clamp on the already bore exit end to prevent any possible blow out. I'm sure it could be made simpler, but I'm doing it on my main lathe and there's a chuck on it already.

I still don't understand buying a new lathe just for coring, less even for the one you are considering.

g4003 3125.00 shipped
Stand 444.00 shipped or make on out of wood for 100-200.00, keeping in mind you are supporting 1000 lbs.
Click to expand...
I turn down one end to 1.150". Have a delrin ring to fit the spindle with that ID .
A lot simpler.
Even if you drill a short undersized exit hole. Keep it short so the dust and chips are blown back to the vacuum hose.
 
Last edited:
qbilder said:
I'd be all over this if it were local to me. Tough lathe to beat, right there.
Click to expand...

Bottom motor mount and variable speed belt drive.
Those are pretty smooth .

Btw, wait till someone starts shopping for a non-Chinese 6-jaw Set True chuck. :D
 
qbilder said:
I can understand him wanting a new lathe. I'd probably do the same. If a good used lathe were readily available & cheap, I'd maybe buy used. Otherwise, it's a PIA searching for, paying for, and working out shipping on a used machine. The aggravation (or lack of) has a value.
Click to expand...


Bingo!

pescadoman said:
I use the rear chuck and a Delrin dead center the keep the exit end more stable.
Click to expand...

Bingo!
and then you can core 12", 13" or 14" as we do.
 
Last edited:
coring lathe

This is great! a real forum with no one arguing and just stating facts. I have been taking it all in I called on the lathe in Genoa it is sold. also my uncle lives within 4 miles of a grizzley store. So i wont need to pay shipping charges as he is headed here in late april. I would like to figure out what i am doing by then as he can deliver it to me then
 
pescadoman said:
You're not dumb, far from it. Your questions and advice are a benefit to the discussion.

I use the rear chuck and a Delrin dead center the keep the exit end more stable. The chuck really doesn't care what size the wood is and I know it's engaging. I also put a hose clamp on the already bore exit end to prevent any possible blow out. I'm sure it could be made simpler, but I'm doing it on my main lathe and there's a chuck on it already.

I still don't understand buying a new lathe just for coring, less even for the one you are considering.

g4003 3125.00 shipped
Stand 444.00 shipped or make on out of wood for 100-200.00, keeping in mind you are supporting 1000 lbs.
Click to expand...
What happens to that delrin dead center when the gun drill hits it ? :eek:
 
jecues said:
This is great! a real forum with no one arguing and just stating facts. I have been taking it all in I called on the lathe in Genoa it is sold. also my uncle lives within 4 miles of a grizzley store. So i wont need to pay shipping charges as he is headed here in late april. I would like to figure out what i am doing by then as he can deliver it to me then
Click to expand...

I would get the gun lathe as it has a narrower head stock.
Make sure he checks the bore . It has to be smooth and accurate for short piece work.
 
jecues said:
This is great! a real forum with no one arguing and just stating facts. I have been taking it all in I called on the lathe in Genoa it is sold. also my uncle lives within 4 miles of a grizzley store. So i wont need to pay shipping charges as he is headed here in late april. I would like to figure out what i am doing by then as he can deliver it to me then
Click to expand...

No one arguing?? :D

Since I've put in my two cents for the purchase, I'll add a bit about moving the thing.

1. Forget machinery skates, they are only good on a very smooth surface. In fact, the only accident on had was by using them. Well that and being pissed because my friend insisted on being there to help and then got too fricken wasted to even answer his phone the next day. The skate were frustrating. Toppling a *****in lathe more than....

2. I've moved the other two lathes I have successfully with the Harbor Freight engine hoist. Rig straps with the appropriate WORKING LOAD through the web of the bed is how I've done it. Seems the same to me as a fork truck lifting the bed from below. You'll have to uncrate it a bit in the truck, but no big deal. Lower it as close to the ground as practical when moving it and try not to let it swing. I've moved all my lathes this way without incident. Once inside, a couple holes drilled in the slab and a bottle jack can position it the rest of the way. You said you have a lot of room, so you may be able to drop it in place with a hoist.

3. Safety first. It's just a machine. It's just a machine.... It's just a machine.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I would get the gun lathe as it has a narrower head stock.
Make sure he checks the bore . It has to be smooth and accurate for short piece work.
Click to expand...

What importance is a narrower head stock?

Smooth is better, but why is it mandatory for short piece work and what is short piece work and if short piece work is an attempt to make fun of the fact that I'm short don't forget I know where you live....:mad:
 
pescadoman said:
What importance is a narrower head stock?

Smooth is better, but why is it mandatory for short piece work and what is short piece work and if short piece work is an attempt to make fun of the fact that I'm short don't forget I know where you live....:mad:
Click to expand...

Narrower head stock allows you to work AR-15 barrels.:thumbup:
Think 17" handles. Easier to chuck on the butt sleeve tenon.

Short piece as in forearms who won't reach the rear chuck.
I have a delrin with a 3/8 dead center in the middle . That butts in to the center hole of the forearm and bottom of the handle when working on the A-joint faces . Imagine if that bore is rough .
 
pescadoman said:
It doesn't. Don't you bore both sides in an inch or 2?
Click to expand...
The exit hole is undersized. I let the gun drill bore the final size . It's more accurate that way. It also stays in line with the entry hole.
The exit hole is always the smaller end to me .
That way I can counter bore the entry hole ( bottom of the forearm and handle ) if I want to step it .
I don't like a straight single size dowel on forearm. I like a fatter bottom.
A few makers I know do the same ( DZ and Denali among them ).
 
coring

We start with 18" pcs. and core all but the last inch. If its for a forearm and butt combo I then drill out the last inch from the other side for the butt sleeve. If its just a handle I cut it off to 12" and leave the last inch in the short leftover pcs. it seems to keep it from twisting. we run full 30" laminated dowels through our basic cues.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top