Delaminated Tip

[ShootingArts]

the round disk with a notch out?

After the first layer peels up, I thought I would be able to trim past that layer and salvage the tips. However, in the two or three times I tried with my Willards tip tool, I was not successful. The layers were so compressed that the successive layers also delaminated during reshaping. .

Perhaps nothing better to destroy layered tips than the Willard tool that grinds instead of cuts. Teaching people how to take care of tips killed about three-quarters of my tip business.

Hu

 

[Gatto138]

I just started using a single layered tip. While it was being broken in, I would use the porper tip burnished to keep the sides pressed in, or to compress the mushrooming. So last week I wet the sides, burnished it, then rolled it on a tip scuffer that’s similar to Kamuis gator thing. And it just exploded. The tip is squishy now and can be shaped just by rolling it on the table. Does anyone know what happened or why it did this?

 

[Sealegs50]

Perhaps nothing better to destroy layered tips than the Willard tool that grinds instead of cuts. Teaching people how to take care of tips killed about three-quarters of my tip business.

Hu

Seems I could use a lesson for shaping tips without a Willard tool. :thumbup: But I haven’t had a tip delaminate in several years since I started using a Gator tool.

 

[jay helfert]

This is my original Revo tip from two years ago. Predator Victory (medium?). I’ve had a cue mechanic trim it down every 2 months or so. It is my first time experiencing this. It still played well but obviously I’m eager to replace it.

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I'd put a dab of Elmer's glue in there and let it harden back up and see how it plays then.

 

[ShootingArts]

I keep them in my case

Seems I could use a lesson for shaping tips without a Willard tool. :thumbup: But I haven’t had a tip delaminate in several years since I started using a Gator tool.

I keep the Willard tools in my case. Those notches are handy to show people what radius they are really using before I replace a tip. Then I can ask them what radius they want new tips cut to. Haven't changed a tip in ages, but the Willards don't take up much room. I also keep my fun kit in my case that I take out when I don't tote my case or cue. BRAD tool, Scotchbrite, a small piece of leather.

The Willard tool will sometimes twist the top layer off of a tip when that layer gets thin and doesn't reach the sides. Not sure if it is because the layer is thin or the glue or glue up isn't what it could be. If there is a bad glue up further down or a bad layer, the Willard sometimes takes a bunch of tip off. That is one reason for tip and install prices, some layered tips will come apart during a tip install regardless of how a person is doing it. A few tricks to minimize risk but nobody can eliminate all risks trying to put on a bad tip. If the cue mechanic supplies the tip, he cusses and puts another one on. If the customer supplied the tip, then it depends. Generally, with the tips of ten years ago I warned the user that about one in twenty will come apart during an install. When you bring your own tip you assume that risk.

The main thing about a Willard that makes cue business is that people have the notch and grinding tool near at hand. They get ready to play, a quick check of the tip shows it isn't a dime. Ha, a few quick twists of the Willard will fix that. After hitting balls an hour check tip again. Not bad, but not my dime preference either, grind some more. Repeat over and over. People that do this go through tips in a hurry, as do the people that put a straight edge on the tip and ferrule to see if the tip is mushroomed.

While I wouldn't take it to the point of snooker players in the not too distant past that played with a piece of leather that didn't even resemble a cue tip, remembering that is a piece of leather you are pounding on and that it doesn't have to be 100% perfect would save some people a ton of money and time lost while tips were changed.

Hu