delrin & clearcoat

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
on my own personal cue i converted, i have a white delrin buttsleeve.

seems the nason clearcoat i'm using isn't adhereing too well to the delrin.
i may have made the mistake of sanding the delrin too smooth or does delrin just not bond with automotive clearcoats?

thanks, brent
 
stix4sale said:
on my own personal cue i converted, i have a white delrin buttsleeve.

seems the nason clearcoat i'm using isn't adhereing too well to the delrin.
i may have made the mistake of sanding the delrin too smooth or does delrin just not bond with automotive clearcoats?

thanks, brent

Brent,
You won't get finish or glue to stick well to Delrin. Best to just buff it!

Sherm
 
stix4sale said:
on my own personal cue i converted, i have a white delrin buttsleeve.

seems the nason clearcoat i'm using isn't adhereing too well to the delrin.
i may have made the mistake of sanding the delrin too smooth or does delrin just not bond with automotive clearcoats?

thanks, brent

Delrin can't be finished, in fact it is used in the manufacture of food service machines and one of it's properties in it resists almost everything and can be easily cleaned. I have a small glue station and I have a sheet of Delrin on the top of it. No matter what glue I have been using it can be cleaned off so I would say no finish of any kind will stick. It is best to leave the delrin butt cap a little oversized and after you spray the cue just sand the finish level with the butt cap and then buff it all out.
 
one drawback to Derlin

stix4sale said:
on my own personal cue i converted, i have a white delrin buttsleeve.

seems the nason clearcoat i'm using isn't adhereing too well to the delrin.
i may have made the mistake of sanding the delrin too smooth or does delrin just not bond with automotive clearcoats?

thanks, brent

Hi Brent, Derlin will not hold any type of finish, you can just buff it to death. Try using a white linen based material on the buttsleve if you wish to use a finish on it.
Thanks,
Jonathan Spitz
 
I just admire nice cues. I've seen some very nice cues (by some of the top cue makers) with the delrin butt cap having no finish. So I guess thar's how it should be done... ;)
 
NOTHING sticks to delrin?

what about two part epoxy?
man, i sure hope so,
because that's how i put the delrin in place to start with.
 
stix4sale said:
what about two part epoxy?
man, i sure hope so,
because that's how i put the delrin in place to start with.

Anytime delren, nylon, polypropylene or any of the other waxy low friction plastics are used they can not be bonded with any glue. You can use epoxy along with a mechanical bond but there MUST be a mechanical bond. The epoxy comes in handy when changing a weight bolt or such to hold the butt cap in place until the bolt is reinserted.
Dick
 
stix4sale said:
what about two part epoxy?
man, i sure hope so,
because that's how i put the delrin in place to start with.

Epoxy alone won't hold! Gotta have a weight bolt on the back to hold a delrin butt piece on! That's why I seldom use them except on steel jointed cues where I want a bolt at the back to counter balance the steel joint anyway.
People have to remember that cue styling changed a lot over the years due largely to material advances. The phenolics and adhesives we have available now are far superior to what they were using even in the 60's.



just more hot air!

Sherm
 
stix4sale said:
what about two part epoxy?
man, i sure hope so,
because that's how i put the delrin in place to start with.

It won't hold at all other then it may have a little mechanical hold if the Delrin is rough. Like I said in my other post, the top of my glue table is Delrin and no matter what I kind of glue I have been using, the dried glue can just be pealed off the work table.
 
Oops!

Well, I Guess I'll Be Issueing A Refund To One Person For Sure.
Steve, Get Back To Me, If Problem Develops With Finish & It Certainly Seems That It Will.

Guess This Is What's Called "paying My Dues", Huh? :(
 
As long as we're on this subject of Delrin. If you ever have to remove a Delrin butt cap, don't remove the screw, until you mark both the butt cap & butt sleeve, so you can reassemble it in EXACTLY the same place. I use a piece of tape on both pieces & then just realign them...JER
 
Great tip Jer. Thnx a mil.
Delrin does not stick. As a buttcap it better be threaded or have something to push it.
If threaded, the glue in between threads just prevents it from spinning out ( hard epoxy is a must ).
Imo it's still the best buttcap there is. Vertually indestructible and scratch resistant.
 
Another thing you can do is wrap masking tape around It to hold it in place while replacing the weight bolt.

I must aggree It's too hard to get anything to really stick to. The only hope you have besides mechanical bond, is to really rough the surface up, and the chances are still slim at best that it will hold for even a short period of time.
Getting a finish to stick is another thing, & very tough. I have done it, and can tell you that the finish will usually wipe away when you try to sand or buff. I was able to get coverage on a cue I had & it took a month of applying It, and it sanding off too easy before I finally got a basecoat to stick. In the end I got a finish on it, but over time the edges start peeling away first. Better to buff It out as already recomended. I actually prefer phenolic in place of delrin.

Delrin makes great joint caps though, because It helps keep moisture away from the joint. I have made a mandrel for applying finish to shafts, because of the fact that finish does not like to stick to It, and I don't end up glueing the shaft to a mandrel, and not able to get It loose afterwards. it has many uses, but have seen It in cues I had to refinish, so I don't use It in Mine. It is a shame, because it's a fairly nice material to work with, besides the glueing and finishing part. Good Luck, Greg
 
Back
Top