Designing home: 2nd floor considerations for 9' table

luckylager

luckylager

Registered
I could really use some advice regarding the pool table I would like to put above a yet-to-be-built detached garage.

Is there anything I should consider telling the architect or engineer to insure that the table is as stable as possible?

Also, there will be a straight run of stairs going up the outside of the garage to the loft. Is there a minimum size width and landing that is required to move a 9' table to a second floor?

Thank you in advance for any replies.
 
Would suggest joists be 12 inches on center, engineered beams work but have alot of bounce in them.
 
Designing Floor for Pool Table

Hi, Lucky.

I've been a remodeling/building contractor for 40 years. You are wise to design your structure with its end use (pool room) in mind.

Here's the scoop for ya:

Make sure the foundation is designed to properly carry the load of the building. Ultimately, the entire weight of the building and all contents is transferred to the foundation and the soil beneath it.

Now, as you said, one of your primary concerns is stabillity of your pool table. In that case, be sure to use name brand TGI joists. They will all be very uniform in dimensions, particularly in height dimension. Therefore, the top side of your floor assembly will be very flat. (If you use solid wood joists, they will shrink unevenly from one joist to the next, and your floor assembly will not be flat) If you want to, you can double up and install two TGI's side by side under each set of pool table legs. Other than the doubles, sixteen inch centers is your maximum spacing for the joists.

Next, use 4 x 8 x 1 1/8" tongue and groove subfloor material. After that, the finish floor is up to your preference, but stay away from laminated type plank floors, especially those with a rubber underlayment.

Obviously, there's more to consider when putting up a garage. This info is just a minimum for you to use to address the pool table aspects.

Lastly, and I'm sure you already know this, but.......be absolutely certain your interior finished room dimensions will allow for your table, plus furnishings, plus cue and stroke length.

Send me a PM or give me a call if you need any other related info.

Good luck to ya.

Joe
 
Room Design

Hi, again.

Sorry, I forgot to address your stair access question. Landings and stair specs are in your local building code. However, in your case, you are concerned with being able to negotiate corners and turns while bringing your heavy pool table up to its final installation spot. The bottom line here is simply knowing what size the largest pieces of your table will be. Since you are still in the design phase, you should be able to adjust the location and configuration of your stair and access door to accomodate the table parts.

I'm assuming that you are considering a single run of stairs alongside an exterior wall culminating in a landing at the top, then a right angle turn thru the entry door. If so, then you might have a bit of difficulty making the right angle turn with heavy or bulky parts. If you could amend your design to allow for entering the room in the same direction of travel as the stairs, then access problems will be minimized.

Nine footers with three piece slate and cabinets that can be broked down to small pieces will be your best bet.

Joe
 
table

luckylager said:
I could really use some advice regarding the pool table I would like to put above a yet-to-be-built detached garage.

Is there anything I should consider telling the architect or engineer to insure that the table is as stable as possible?

Also, there will be a straight run of stairs going up the outside of the garage to the loft. Is there a minimum size width and landing that is required to move a 9' table to a second floor?

Thank you in advance for any replies.
Click to expand...

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what make/model of table are you plan on owning?
 
4x8x1 1/8 Tounge and Grove Subflooring? Never heard of those dimensions, unless you plan on parking a semi on it!
 
DaveB1 said:
4x8x1 1/8 Tounge and Grove Subflooring? Never heard of those dimensions, unless you plan on parking a semi on it!
Click to expand...

It's plywood. Four feet by eight feet by 1 1/8 inch thickness. Very common for sturdy subfloor. Available at Home Depot for about $32.00 per sheet.
 
An alternative is to place the table directly over a beam or bearing wall which will minimize bouncing. If you center the table in a large span it can get real expensive beefing up framing when a piece of steel I beam will perform much better.
 
Steel I-beam

I agree with using steel I-beams to shorten the spans on the floor joists. If you can use one or two pieces of steel that make the wall-to-wall spans, then the overall lengths of the wood components that hang between the steel are halved or even 1/3 the original lengths. (much stiffer). It doesn't take much of a "live load" to bounce a floor with spans of over 20 feet even if you double up the wood joists.

When we set-up and level pool tables our levels are reading the thickness of a dollar bill, but when you get 2 or 3 men in an upstairs, open-span-below, poolroom, the floor moves easily.

PS If your planning on a 9 foot Diamond 1 piece, it would be better to install it before you build the handrail for the upper landing on the stairs. Extenda fork right through the doorway! Of course if the railing is assembled out of wood components it could be disassembled to allow the table access but not as easily with a steel stair-handrail unit.

Good Luck with your project!

Gordon Graham
Las Vegas
 
dontlitethat said:
--
-
what make/model of table are you plan on owning?
Click to expand...

Thank you all very much for the replies. I thought I would get an email alert when new messages were posted -- which I did not -- and am just now returning to see these thoughtful responses.

I am not 100% decided on which table I plan on owning but here are all of the contenders (all 9'):

Kling
Anniversary
Centennial
Gold Crown I
Diamond Professional
Diamond Pro Am

I think the Kling is the heaviest by far at approximately 2,000 lbs. and that should probably be what I plan for.

If any of you have any thoughts on why one or more of those tables would be a bad consideration, I would love to hear them.
 
Last edited:
luckylager said:
Thank you all very much for the replies. I thought I would get an email alert when new messages were posted -- which I did not -- and am just now returning to see these thoughtful responses.

I am not 100% decided on which table I plan on owning but here are all of the contenders (all 9'):

Kling
Anniversary
Centennial
Gold Crown I
Diamond Professional
Diamond Pro Am

I think the Kling is the heaviest by far at approximately 2,000 lbs. and that should probably be what I plan for.

If any of you have any thoughts on why one or more of those tables would be a bad consideration, I would love to hear them.
Click to expand...

I have a new GCV in which I put Artemis cushions on..with 4" corner pockets....great playing table.....I would love to trade for a Kling any day.

If I could afford a Kling....wouldn't have a second thought....but I'll tell you this much...if your looking for a players table...I can make any of the top 4 on your list play great...by redoing the rails and cushions.

The Kling to me is the best looking of all of them....but I'm old school too. LOL
Where are you located?
Maybe I can do some rail work for you....on which ever table you decide.
Good Luck

Mark Gregory
 
perfectpocketz said:
If I could afford a Kling....wouldn't have a second thought....but I'll tell you this much...if your looking for a players table...I can make any of the top 4 on your list play great...by redoing the rails and cushions.

The Kling to me is the best looking of all of them....but I'm old school too. LOL
Click to expand...

I've narrowed it down to either an Anniversary or a Centennial; most likely restored and delivered by Derrick Tiers.

The Kling is awesome but the difference in price is too hard for me to swallow after giving it deep thought.

I'm inclined to go with the original corner pocket width for a Centennial/Anniversary. I hope it was something like 7".;)
 
luckylager said:
I've narrowed it down to either an Anniversary or a Centennial; most likely restored and delivered by Derrick Tiers.

The Kling is awesome but the difference in price is too hard for me to swallow after giving it deep thought.

I'm inclined to go with the original corner pocket width for a Centennial/Anniversary. I hope it was something like 7".;)
Click to expand...


LOL...good luck with either table...more than sure you'll love
which ever one you buy....and I fully understand what you mean
about the Kling price.....now you know why I have the GCV..LOL

Respectfully
Mark Gregory
 
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