"Deska Drills" - center ball (vertical axis) is your friend

Ted Brown

Willie and others.

I am holding in my hand a book by Ted G. Brown (undated). Wagon Wheel System: Secrets of fine position play.(38 pages). First edition published by Ted G. Brown, P.O. Box 418353, Sacramento, Ca 95841. I purchased circa 1992.

It also says: To order copies write, American Billiard Library, 1570 Seabright, Long Beach, CA 90813 telephone (213) 437 – 5413

There is no online site for ABL and I assume they are no longer in business. If someone knows they are out of business I can photocopy and make the text available.

Brown wrote,” I have no doubt that playing this game (One Pocket Points discussed later) lead me to find a more scientific way to play position and the ‘Wagon Wheel’ system.. … More accurately it could be called ‘A theory of caroms’ or better yet, ‘when in doubt grab a quick ninety.” (page 2).

On pages 22 and 23 he shows a variation on shot three.

My understanding of the diagrams on page 11 for the WWS is that the OB is placed one ball off dead center towards the center pocket. The cue ball is placed slightly over half the distance from the opposing pocket to dead center on the table. Apparently, Brown moved the CB and inch or two up and down table towards the head or foot of the table as he moved around the wagon wheel to make the shot as described in your post.

In my practice routines I find it more consistent to place the CB as indicated but ½ ball off of the OB towards the foot of the table for every shot. After this is mastered then the CB can be moved around. Initially it is best to learn to control the CB from one place (changing as few variables as possible)

According to Brown, control is learned by cue tip placement and the amount of energy required. You should not cheat the pocket.

Here is an interesting story by Brown, paraphrased from his book so as not to violate his copyright. It seems that Virgil Fillmore, from LA, taught him a game called “One Pocket Points.” Break a 15 ball rack in any way and pocket all balls in one designated pocket. When you miss, count the number of balls made and that is the score. Re-rack all balls for the next shooter. If you make all 15 you get a free rack. The first ball in the second rack counts as 16, etc. The score is limitless. If you scratch you lose one point.

If you make a ball in the wrong pocket on the break your score is limited to 14! You can’t get a free rack.

According to Brown it is / was not uncommon for some players to run five racks and it becomes an obsession to get into your next rack. Seems they have some serious shooters in Calif. :cool:

There are several other comments in this small mongraph that are quite helpful. For instance, do you think about what part of the cue tip hits the cue ball on various shots?

I forget who just now, maybe Blackjack, suggested throwing six balls on the table and playing in rotation. This is an interesting drill to find one’s weaknesses.
 
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I forgot to mention, when using the Wagon Wheel, I try to touch the rail ball three consecutive times to know that I have "mastered" it. It is surprising how often I can hit it twice and miss the third attempt.:mad:
 
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JoeW said:
I forgot to mention, when using the Wagon Wheel, I try to touch the rail ball three consecutive times to know that I have "mastered" it. It is surprising how often I can hit it twice and miss the third attempt.:mad:

I did this playing three-cushion. Ran three and missed the fourth by the thickness of a sheet of paper for about four years. {I didn't play it too often:)}
 
Wagon Wheel Question

I just tried to run through the wagon wheel drill this morning before work and had a bit of trouble (which was not unexpected)...

My question is -- should I plow through the drill until I make two successful hits on each target, or should I impose a time limit (say 15 minutes) and just work on certain shots until I build up some proficiency?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
D Player said:
I just tried to run through the wagon wheel drill this morning before work and had a bit of trouble (which was not unexpected)...

My question is -- should I plow through the drill until I make two successful hits on each target, or should I impose a time limit (say 15 minutes) and just work on certain shots until I build up some proficiency?

Thanks,
Jeff

MY SUGGESTION IS THAT YOU FOCUS ENTIRELY ON THE FIRST THREE SHOTS IN THE DRILL. ONCE YOU'VE LEARNED THEM, AND THAT MIGHT TAKE A WHILE, THEN MOVE ON. THIS IS A DIFFICULT DRILL, AND IF YOU ARE, AS YOU CONTEND, A "D" PLAYER, THIS WILL HELP YOU TO AVOID BITING OFF MORE THAN YOU CAN CHEW.
 
D Player said:
I just tried to run through the wagon wheel drill this morning before work and had a bit of trouble (which was not unexpected)...

My question is -- should I plow through the drill until I make two successful hits on each target, or should I impose a time limit (say 15 minutes) and just work on certain shots until I build up some proficiency?

Thanks,
Jeff
If you're having a lot of trouble, relax the requirements. First, change the positions of the balls to the way it's shown in Byrne's "Advanced Technique in Pool and Billiards" with the object ball and cue ball closer to the pocket. This will let you cheat the pocket more. I would say that the way the shot is illustrated above will not work for players below A-level or B-level depending on the angle taken.

Also, you can reduce the accuracy requirement. Put three balls up as the target or require that you leave the cue ball within a hand span from the target. (A hand span is the distance across your hand when you stretch out your fingers. Mine is nine inches.)

Good luck.
 
D Player said:
I just tried to run through the wagon wheel drill this morning before work and had a bit of trouble (which was not unexpected)...

My question is -- should I plow through the drill until I make two successful hits on each target, or should I impose a time limit (say 15 minutes) and just work on certain shots until I build up some proficiency?

Thanks,
Jeff

DP,
In addition to sjm's sound advice; let me also state that these drills are positional in nature, and presuppose that you already have a sound and repeatable stroke. If your stroke has flaws, some (?much?) of the value of the drills may be lost; and it is possible that stroke/ball pocketing drills might be more valuable to you. Just a thought.

One of the great values of having a great instructor is that he can identify weaknesses in your game (and accordingly drills to correct and improve them); allowing you to focus your efforts, and allowing progress to be MUCH faster than if you try to figure it out on your own.
 
Thanks

sjm said:
MY SUGGESTION IS THAT YOU FOCUS ENTIRELY ON THE FIRST THREE SHOTS IN THE DRILL. ONCE YOU'VE LEARNED THEM, AND THAT MIGHT TAKE A WHILE, THEN MOVE ON. THIS IS A DIFFICULT DRILL, AND IF YOU ARE, AS YOU CONTEND, A "D" PLAYER, THIS WILL HELP YOU TO AVOID BITING OFF MORE THAN YOU CAN CHEW.

SJM,

I appreciate your advice here...

With all the threads I have read which discuss the "optimal" amount of time to spend during practice on any one skill/drill, I often get confused as to what is the best approach for me.

I like the idea of breaking the drill into more manageable chunks, so I will focus on just the first three shots until I get more comfortable with them.

I am pretty realistic about my playing ability and would consider myself a D player, although I could be mistaken for a low to mid C on certain nights.

Thanks again for the help.
Jeff
 
Bob and Don,

Thanks as well for the responses...

I practice on a 7' table at my house so the level of difficulty of this drill is reduced a bit. I'll try focusing on a few shots at a time for a while to see if I can develop some proficiency, and if need be, I'll make a hand span from the target an acceptable result.

I am also working on my stroke during every practice session. I have taken a few lessons and have some specific stoke drills I do before working on other areas. Even though it is difficult, I think this drill will benefit my game...

My position play is my weakest area, and I tend to use english in many situations where it is not required.

Thanks again,
Jeff
 
Question

For drill 2, am I supposed to have straight enough of an angle to cheat the pocket and draw right into the 10? Or am I supposed to go a rail to get there, avoiding the rest of the balls? It might be very difficult to do all of these without a rail on a table with tight side pockets.
 
D Player said:
My position play is my weakest area, and I tend to use english in many situations where it is not required.

I think it's good to start, when you're less experienced, not worrying about using english much. Although English is immensely useful and necessary for a higher level of play, it complicates the game drastically (deflection, throw, etc.) and you should have really good fundamentals before using english tons. Many top players use English on almost all shots partly to lessen the chance of skids (i.e. even when no rail is used).
 
JoeW said:
Willie and others.

I am holding in my hand a book by Ted G. Brown (undated). Wagon Wheel System: Secrets of fine position play.(38 pages). First edition published by Ted G. Brown, P.O. Box 418353, Sacramento, Ca 95841. I purchased circa 1992.

It also says: To order copies write, American Billiard Library, 1570 Seabright, Long Beach, CA 90813 telephone (213) 437 ? 5413

There is no online site for ABL and I assume they are no longer in business. If someone knows they are out of business I can photocopy and make the text available.

Brown wrote,? I have no doubt that playing this game (One Pocket Points discussed later) lead me to find a more scientific way to play position and the ?Wagon Wheel? system.. ? More accurately it could be called ?A theory of caroms? or better yet, ?when in doubt grab a quick ninety.? (page 2).

On pages 22 and 23 he shows a variation on shot three.

My understanding of the diagrams on page 11 for the WWS is that the OB is placed one ball off dead center towards the center pocket. The cue ball is placed slightly over half the distance from the opposing pocket to dead center on the table. Apparently, Brown moved the CB and inch or two up and down table towards the head or foot of the table as he moved around the wagon wheel to make the shot as described in your post.

In my practice routines I find it more consistent to place the CB as indicated but ? ball off of the OB towards the foot of the table for every shot. After this is mastered then the CB can be moved around. Initially it is best to learn to control the CB from one place (changing as few variables as possible)

According to Brown, control is learned by cue tip placement and the amount of energy required. You should not cheat the pocket.

Here is an interesting story by Brown, paraphrased from his book so as not to violate his copyright. It seems that Virgil Fillmore, from LA, taught him a game called ?One Pocket Points.? Break a 15 ball rack in any way and pocket all balls in one designated pocket. When you miss, count the number of balls made and that is the score. Re-rack all balls for the next shooter. If you make all 15 you get a free rack. The first ball in the second rack counts as 16, etc. The score is limitless. If you scratch you lose one point.

If you make a ball in the wrong pocket on the break your score is limited to 14! You can?t get a free rack.

According to Brown it is / was not uncommon for some players to run five racks and it becomes an obsession to get into your next rack. Seems they have some serious shooters in Calif. :cool:

There are several other comments in this small mongraph that are quite helpful. For instance, do you think about what part of the cue tip hits the cue ball on various shots?

I forget who just now, maybe Blackjack, suggested throwing six balls on the table and playing in rotation. This is an interesting drill to find one?s weaknesses.

I like this book. However, I think it is out of print. I bought my copy in the late 80's. I have not seen it for sale for quite a while.
 
I did drill #2 last night, no time for more. I had a heck of a time getting ball number 5! It's the smallest target. I kept getting close, but not on it. It took me a whole rack of balls before I hit it!

Great drills, thanks for these!
 
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