determine value of a cue - help

jrscott03

Registered
Hello,

I am trying to determine how much my cue is worth and sell my cue. I am new to this forum and not sure where to start. Can anyone help? I am posting some photos of my cue. I am told that the joint in this cue is often used in custom cues and makes the cue valuable.

Thanks in advance!

Jaimie
 

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I'm assuming you want us to identify the cue and give a value. With no ID, it's worth whatever someone will pay for.

BTW, just because you were told "that the joint in this cue is often used in custom cues and makes the cue valuable" does not mean it is valuable. My $40 Chinese knockoff cue uses the same joint pin that my custom cues use.
 
Yes, Dave, I would like to figure out what the cue is worth and sell it as I mentioned in my post.

Measureman -- I don't know if the joint is ivory or even how to tell for that matter.

I really don't know anything about this stick other than I've had it for more than 15 years and can't remember where I got it. Maybe I need to bring it somewhere to have someone look at it?
 
If it has end grain, it may be ivory. Look at the face of the joint.

It's best to take close photos of the joint, bumper, buttcap, and weight bolt (if it has one).
 
Straighten out a paperclip and heat it over a stove until its red hot. Poke at a section of the joint where it wouldn't show, such as the joint facing. Plastic will melt and leave a blacken indent, while Bone and Ivory will not melt.

Yes, Dave, I would like to figure out what the cue is worth and sell it as I mentioned in my post.

Measureman -- I don't know if the joint is ivory or even how to tell for that matter.

I really don't know anything about this stick other than I've had it for more than 15 years and can't remember where I got it. Maybe I need to bring it somewhere to have someone look at it?
 
Straighten out a paperclip and heat it over a stove until its red hot. Poke at a section of the joint where it wouldn't show, such as the joint facing. Plastic will melt and leave a blacken indent, while Bone and Ivory will not melt.

There are easier ways of telling if it's ivory that don't mar the surface of the material....
 
Straighten out a paperclip and heat it over a stove until its red hot. Poke at a section of the joint where it wouldn't show, such as the joint facing. Plastic will melt and leave a blacken indent, while Bone and Ivory will not melt.

LOL!

Please just take better photos before finding a paper clip.
 
Yes, Dave, I would like to figure out what the cue is worth and sell it as I mentioned in my post.

Measureman -- I don't know if the joint is ivory or even how to tell for that matter.

I really don't know anything about this stick other than I've had it for more than 15 years and can't remember where I got it. Maybe I need to bring it somewhere to have someone look at it?

You can't remember where you got it...

I hope you have an alibi.

Dale
 
It has no name or logo? Most quality cues have something of this nature not only to identify the cue but also to let everyone know who sees the cue who crafted it.
 
I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope for much value, as the machining of the joint rings looks pretty rough, more or less beginner-ish. Jmo.
 
Without knowing the maker, it looks like a $120 cue including the case. The finish is totally off where the C and D rings are, it does not look like anything a known custom maker built.
 
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