Okay, let me have a few of your opinions on phenolic. I was unaware of the vast array of phenolic types available for sale. I was just curious what type of phenolic would be most suitable for use as a plug type insert at the joint of a cue, whether installed in the shaft and threaded or on the butt side of the joint to install the pin. Thanks in advance for any and all replies and advice on this.
Different types of phenolic
- Thread starter gregoryg
- Start date
Make that two votes
Canvas has a little give in it. My break tip is canvas resin and it has little creases and crinkles from compression during the break. Not sure this would be suitable for a cue joint as it may change shape or look unsightly over time. Regular phenolic can be brittle and if the cue is dropped or there is a funny vibration, it could crack. Linen is very fine, strengthening the resin and not offering as much give. Overall, I would say linen phenolic is your best bet for the joint, butt or ferrule areas of a cue. I'm not a cuemaker, so take my opinion FWIW.
Canvas has a little give in it. My break tip is canvas resin and it has little creases and crinkles from compression during the break. Not sure this would be suitable for a cue joint as it may change shape or look unsightly over time. Regular phenolic can be brittle and if the cue is dropped or there is a funny vibration, it could crack. Linen is very fine, strengthening the resin and not offering as much give. Overall, I would say linen phenolic is your best bet for the joint, butt or ferrule areas of a cue. I'm not a cuemaker, so take my opinion FWIW.
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The LE grade linen phenolic rod that Murray steered you to is the material that is more or less standard for flat-face joint threaded inserts. Same material would work as a plug in butt to install a joint, but maple is often used for that purpose. One maker I know uses olivewood plugs in his shafts.
Martin
Martin
gregoryg said:
I tried it.gregoryg said:
I like bocote instead.
Canvas and linen have almost identical strength number's and hardness:
Compressive 32,000 psi and identical Rockwell M scale harness readings.
Paper based phenolic isn't that far behind in strength. The finer weave in linen makes it easier to machine finer details. Canvas absorbs water a little more than the linen, but not enough to matter for our use.
Joey, bocote has about the same specific gravity and compressive strength as cocobola and other rosewoods. If I read correctly, it isn't as hard a maple. Why do you think it makes such a good insert. Just wondering.
Compressive 32,000 psi and identical Rockwell M scale harness readings.
Paper based phenolic isn't that far behind in strength. The finer weave in linen makes it easier to machine finer details. Canvas absorbs water a little more than the linen, but not enough to matter for our use.
Joey, bocote has about the same specific gravity and compressive strength as cocobola and other rosewoods. If I read correctly, it isn't as hard a maple. Why do you think it makes such a good insert. Just wondering.
Klopek said:
Sorry sir...but someone lied to you. Your tip, if its as you say...then its definately not canvas resin. CR gets absolutely no "creases" or "crinkles" in the material from breaking...period. Trust me. I see CR tips and ferrules that I installed years ago...and they still look same as new.
Please post a picture...I'd be very interested in seeing this.
wrong cookie!
It's just oily enough to thread nice.cutter said:
Not quite cocobolo or olivewood oily. But not dry like maple.
Bocote seems much harder and heavier than maple to me.
http://www.thevirtualshowroom.com/HW...ness_chart.htm
Bump........Varney Cues said: