Diminishing shaft diameter

For me it was noticeable when I used it to clean the plastic trim on It's George case. I did a quick google search and that's where I got the grit range for Magic Eraser. 1500-2000 grit is recommended for car clear coats, and one step below rubbing compound.

For periodic shaft maintenance which most people including me, I think it's perfect. Now, if you're planning to use it between every inning, then you should be aware where this product is on the abrasive grit chart.

http://www.carpaintrepairinfo.com/sandpaper-grit-car-sanding/

greyghost said:
I don't think they are abrasive to wood, maybe uber soft plastic at least not the ines I've used


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ctyhntr said:
For me it was noticeable when I used it to clean the plastic trim on It's George case. I did a quick google search and that's where I got the grit range for Magic Eraser. 1500-2000 grit is recommended for car clear coats, and one step below rubbing compound.

For periodic shaft maintenance which most people including me, I think it's perfect. Now, if you're planning to use it between every inning, then you should be aware where this product is on the abrasive grit chart.

http://www.carpaintrepairinfo.com/sandpaper-grit-car-sanding/
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I have heard they are abrasive in the past as well. In my experience, I cant see any shaft material on the sponge after I wipe it down, so if it is removing any wood its so very little, it would take a long time to remove even .1 mm. Again this is my experience only. I have used a magic eraser on one shaft for about 4 years and the calipers still read the same as when new, 13.2.

Ian
 
Jesus, quit the magic eraser and sandpaper. Keep your hands clean, rub the shaft good when you play, let the natural oils clean the shaft. If you have to, run a very damp paper towel over the shaft, then rub it good. If you need more, rub it with Cue Slick, then all the cue papers, except for the white one. Blue, then green, then yellow.

Lord, the loss of wood on this forum is beyond comprehension...

All the best,
WW
 
Your usage and experience is consistent with Magic Eraser; an ultra fine sanding sponge (1,500-2,000 grit). For comparison, 0000 steel wool is around 400 grit, and green scotch brite pads are around 600.

xianmacx said:
I have heard they are abrasive in the past as well. In my experience, I cant see any shaft material on the sponge after I wipe it down, so if it is removing any wood its so very little, it would take a long time to remove even .1 mm. Again this is my experience only. I have used a magic eraser on one shaft for about 4 years and the calipers still read the same as when new, 13.2.

Ian
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You guys do realize that the amount of wood he's removing with Q-Wiz is less than .001 over a period of 5 months right :confused:?

I'll kiss his ass in public if he can feel a difference that small :eek:.

1/10 of a millimeter is .003937 if you wanna get real accurate. 1/100 is .0003937.

You'd need a vernier micrometer to accurately measure in .0001 increments. The 0-25.4 vernier Metric micrometer I have goes down to 1/100 or .00039 so it might as well be 4 TEN THOUSANDTHS per tick mark.

Why do you think aftermarket shafts like Predator sell so well? They are MEANT to be replaced periodically.

If anyone is sweating a diameter loss that small,just have someone reseal it and add wax,problem solved :p. Tommy D.
 
I find that a wet microfibre cloth every few weeks followed by a dry one - and leather burnishing - is fine. I occasionally use denatured alcohol on a paper towel and maybe every 6 months use a wet magic eraser.

To respond to the question on how to smooth wood without removing it, I find burnishing with leather or a brown paper bag works fine.

I don't have an issue with waxing, but I don't find it necessary. Then again, I don't live in the Philippines or Louisiana.
 
Tommy-D said:
1/10 of a millimeter is .003937

If anyone is sweating a diameter loss that small,just have someone reseal it and add wax,problem solved :p. Tommy D.
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Actually, .003937007874 inches, for a tenth of a millimeter. But, agree with your conclusion. He shouldn't worry. However, I wouldn't do wax. I would do sanding sealer or Q Slick. Wax just screws up the shaft over time.

All the best,
WW
 
DaveInSC said:
Thanks bud. I'll take it to the pool hall and give it away. Wife keeps Magic Erasers around here.
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Long term magic erasers are even worse imo.
Generally speaking 3 options:

1)

- Slighty damp microfiber cloth to wipe your cue down with every 15 minutes or so.
- Dry microfiber cloth to dry it

Beyond that there are certain other things you can do like waxing/burnishing to help your shaft stay clean better.

2)

Use a light abbravise occasionally and carefully (qwiz is fine, I use 1500 sandpaper). This will reduce your shaft diameter very slowly over time.

Can off course be combined with waxing / burnishing

3)

Do nothing to your shaft. Usually combined with wearing a glove.
 
It's the frequency that you're doing it that is the problem I think. Personally I'm fine with my shaft going blue, so I just burnish it with a piece of brown paper bag on occasion and maybe three times a year I'll hit it with a Q-Wiz very gently. Love the Q-Wiz but absolutely realize its sandpaper and use it properly. My shaft is also waxed with bowling alley wax, so it's mostly that coming off when I Q-Wiz it.
 
Double-Dave said:
Long term magic erasers are even worse imo.
Generally speaking 3 options:

1)

- Slighty damp microfiber cloth to wipe your cue down with every 15 minutes or so.
- Dry microfiber cloth to dry it

Beyond that there are certain other things you can do like waxing/burnishing to help your shaft stay clean better.

2)

Use a light abbravise occasionally and carefully (qwiz is fine, I use 1500 sandpaper). This will reduce your shaft diameter very slowly over time.

Can off course be combined with waxing / burnishing

3)

Do nothing to your shaft. Usually combined with wearing a glove.
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Dave, Curious on your opinion of the negative impacts of long term Magic eraser use?
 
Double-Dave said:
I sell Q-wiz, have done so for a decade. It's not a minor detail.

You are using sandpaper on your shaft and that is why it's getting thinner.
If you don't want it to get thinner don't use sandpaper on your shaft.
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Ding-ding we have a winner.
DD is right, there is really nothing more to say on this subject.
If you want your shafts to stay clean longer, take it to a cuemaker, have him seal, wax and burnish your shaft properly,
 
Ched said:
Sort of a bit surprised that anyone on this site would ever use sandpaper.
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3000 grit. Yuuup. But, at the 'level" I'm sure they consider it a polisher... but I'm pretty sure it takes a little off. I only pull it out every few months or so though.
 
Ched said:
Sort of a bit surprised that anyone on this site would ever use sandpaper.
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Well on my part I guess it was ignorance and failing to read the full description in the advertising...

Note it calls the cleaning side "not abrasive" but further down refers to it as the "Abrasive cleaning side." I failed to read the full description.

That's why I joined here. Asking you guys questions will hopefully ease the noob learning curve.

"It is made of soft high quality genuine leather on one side and a cleaning pad on the other side. The gentle, not abrasive cleaning side removes the dirt and oils that accumulate on the cue from repeated use. After cleaning, the specially treated soft natural leather smoothes the shaft for a perfect stroke. This Shaft Slicker features:
2 Side Shaft Cleaner Pad- One side Leather and other side Abrasive
Abrasive cleaning side removes the dirt and oils and leather side smooths the surface on shaft
Size 5" x 3"
Lightweight, flexible and easy to use"
 
jakedp1 said:
Over time I have noticed that a shaft I use starts out at 12.8 mm and over the course of the past 5 months it is down to 12.72. The purpose for this shaft was to replace an old shaft that was worn down to 12.5. It as well started at 12.8mm. I use a Q Wiz to clean the shaft once a week maybe. I've had the same Q Wiz for more than a year. There is virtually no sandpaper left on the one side. I play quite often. The shafts I've been playing with are the Jacoby hybrid edge shafts. Is this just a thing that happens with low deflection shafts? Does anyone have any knowledge or suggestions for me to prevent this from happening?
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Here are two real solutions that are 100% guaranteed to solve the problem.

1) Never sand your shaft and never clean your shaft with anything. Forget about the shaft looking clean, a clean shaft does nothing to help you make shots.

After enough sweat, chalk and whatever else fills in all the pours in the shaft, it will slide through your bridge hand like butter. Shaft is usually a nice shade of green, blue, and brown when it really comes into it's own.

2) Make the switch to a carbon fiber shaft. Never a need to sand - if you wipe it down after playing and put it in your case it will also stay clean as new for ever, if that is important to you.

Good luck.
 
Double-Dave said:
I keep hurting my head when I hit it against the wall, what should I do? Is this a common problem with walls?
Sorry that wasn't nice, but really, you use sandpaper on wood once a week and wonder why it gets thinner?
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What kind of walls are you using? LOL
 
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