Dings (like the one on Hals!)

Gregg

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I got a new ding on my Samsara, very similar to Hals ding on his SW like this one here-
SW.jpg


My question has been answered by reading his thread ($50 or so to have the butt redone).

I have it to play with, not to look at, so I'm not in the least upset.

Is there something I should do to prevent the wood exposed without the lacquer finish if I don't plan on fixing it anytime soon by having the but refinished correctly? Is applying a clear nail polish or a type of lacquer the answer?
 
Last edited:
Gregg said:
I got a new ding on my Samsara, very similar to Hals ding on his SW like this one here-
SW.jpg


My question has been answered by reading his thread ($50 or so to have the butt redone), and I don't even mind like someone said the battle wound or personality of a little ding, as long as I'm the one dinging it! I have it to play with, not to look at, so I'm not in the least upset.

Is there something I should do to prevent the wood exposed without the lacquer finish if I don't plan or fixing it for a while, like putting clear nail polish or a type of lacquer?


I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure the wood was sealed and you should be fine playing with it:)
 
ribdoner said:
[/COLOR]

I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure the wood was sealed and you should be fine playing with it:)

Don't understand about the sealed wood; Isn't it bare wood, sealed by the lacquer, or no?
 
Gregg said:
Don't understand about the sealed wood; Isn't it bare wood, sealed by the lacquer, or no?

Sealed with a sanding sealer prior to application of finish:)
 
Drive a nail through the ding. The head of the nail will hide the ding. :D
 
Pinocchio said:
Galvanized roofing nail would be preferable more durability!
Pinocchio

and not to mention the larger head size will cover more area just incase the ding starts to spread...

chris
 
Gregg said:
Is there something I should do to prevent the wood exposed without the lacquer finish if I don't plan on fixing it anytime soon by having the but refinished correctly? Is applying a clear nail polish or a type of lacquer the answer?

You can apply something for aesthetics, but I am under the impression that wood, no matter what finish is applied, will eventually adjust in moisture content to the atmosphere it's in. Some finishes may slow the process, but I don't think it's by all that much.

I read this info a long time ago in Fine Woodworking Magazine (they conducted extrensive tests), and then not long ago it was repeated on this forum, probably in the Cuemaking section.

Ken
 
Gregg said:
I got a new ding on my Samsara, very similar to Hals ding on his SW like this one here-
SW.jpg


My question has been answered by reading his thread ($50 or so to have the butt redone).

I have it to play with, not to look at, so I'm not in the least upset.

Is there something I should do to prevent the wood exposed without the lacquer finish if I don't plan on fixing it anytime soon by having the but refinished correctly? Is applying a clear nail polish or a type of lacquer the answer?

I would also suggest Super Glue to reseal the exposed wood. The main reason is to prevent additional moisture from getting under the finish at the chip and making the finish around the chip losen.

Clean the chipped area of any lose material, put a single drop of Super Glue in the center of the chip and spread it around quickly with a small brush. Make it as smooth as possible.

It will not look pretty, however, it will protect the wood and surrounding finish until it can be properly repaired.
 
Gregg said:
I got a new ding on my Samsara, very similar to Hals ding on his SW like this one here-
SW.jpg


My question has been answered by reading his thread ($50 or so to have the butt redone).

I have it to play with, not to look at, so I'm not in the least upset.

Is there something I should do to prevent the wood exposed without the lacquer finish if I don't plan on fixing it anytime soon by having the but refinished correctly? Is applying a clear nail polish or a type of lacquer the answer?
i use a paste wax on my entire cue..i use a product by Kiwi called "Wet Pruf" for boots..put a very very thin coat on the cue without getting it on your tip or wrap..let dry at least 5 mins.and buff lightly using an old soft t-shirt..i have been doing this to my cues for years and play pool almost everyday ..they still look like new...but remember to put the wax on very very thin ...good luck
 
unbranded-galvanised-felt-roofing-nail-13-x-3-0mm.jpg


Ok, I've got the butt of my cue clamped into a bench vise (it's hard to get a round object into the flat surface of the jaws, but hammering on the vice handle seems to tighten it just enough).

I've pre drilled a pilot hole for the nail, and it looks long enough to hold, without driving through the other side. Whew. It looks good.

I was skeptical at first, but you guys have never steered me wrong.

On a positive note, my cue no longer rolls away when I slam it down on the table with the new upgrade.

Should I now supergule the nail in place, like you guys said? It's a bit late, and maybe I read wrong, but you guys seem to have all the answers.
 
Last edited:
Gregg said:
unbranded-galvanised-felt-roofing-nail-13-x-3-0mm.jpg


Ok, I've got the butt of my cue clamped into a bench vise (it's hard to get a round object into the flat surface of the jaws, but hammering on the vice handle seems to tighten it just enough).

I've pre drilled a pilot hole for the nail, and it looks long enough to hold, without driving through the other side. Whew. It looks good.

Ahh Hah!!! So that's how those round inlays are done! I won't be able to do it though, my vise doesn't have an "indexer" :(
 
Greg!!!!!!!

Nothing like a good sense of humor to rectify a bad situation.
Good rep for you an Hal!!!!!1
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hal
Gregg said:
unbranded-galvanised-felt-roofing-nail-13-x-3-0mm.jpg


Ok, I've got the butt of my cue clamped into a bench vise (it's hard to get a round object into the flat surface of the jaws, but hammering on the vice handle seems to tighten it just enough).

I've pre drilled a pilot hole for the nail, and it looks long enough to hold, without driving through the other side. Whew. It looks good.

I was skeptical at first, but you guys have never steered me wrong.

On a positive note, my cue no longer rolls away when I slam it down on the table with the new upgrade.

Should I now supergule the nail in place, like you guys said? It's a bit late, and maybe I read wrong, but you guys seem to have all the answers.

Gregg,

I have a ding in a $7,000 Gina. Got any more nails??

On the serious side - one post said to use super glue and spread it real quick with a brush. I wouldn't suggest you do that. What I wold suggest you do is to take super glue gel - not the liquid - put a couple of drops on a piece of cardboard and dip a tooth pick in the drops and use that to fill the ding. A brush and super glue don't mix. I've used this process on a number of gun stocks and it works very well. Also, if you leave it alone, moisture won't have any affect on the cue. Hope this helps.
 
cueaddicts said:
I heard somewhere that a Sharpie works real well on finish dings over ebony....

Yeah and after you "fix" (synonym) for HIDE, the dent you can sell it as new unplayed...

JV
 
An added bonus is that when you have the nail firmly and permanently in place, you can take the cue to a dealer and have them engrave your initials on the nail head to personalize the cue so that it would be easy to identify if stolen!
 
Back
Top