Do tighter pockets favor the shotmaker?

[straightline]

many don´t understand why severe cut shots are more difficult than shallow angle. It is not just perception. Your aiming line margin of freedom is a lot smaller.
0-30 degrees is first half ball. 45 degree cut is 1/4ball hit. 45 - 90 degrees are all in last quarter. So scale is a lot smaller. You actually need to be more accurate AND judge cut angle right too.
So if one have straight in shot and cue is pointing couple degrees left from "right" aiming line he might still make a ball. If cut is over 50 degrees ... forget it.

I shoot the carom line.

 

[Poolplaya9]

LOL, sure, because you've played on my table and know. Funny, I can shoot the same shot at the same speed with both force follow and force draw - with follow the OB stays in the pocket, draw kicks it out. You'll just have to trust me on this one. I'm no SVB but I guarantee I understand the physics of pool and I most definitely understand the quirks of my own table

Bygone's...

You obviously don't actually understand some very basic physics of pool if you think only draw on the cue ball is making your pockets spit out the balls regardless of shot distance as you have said. I already explained why but here goes again. By putting bottom on the cue ball, at most you are getting immediate natural forward roll on the object ball. You are not and cannot get "overspin". The pocket doesn't know or care how the cue ball was hit, it only knows what the object ball is doing when it gets there and if you hit the cue ball with draw the object ball will get there somewhere between fully sliding (on closer/harder shots) to being fully naturally rolling (on longer/slower shots).

If your table had a problem with spitting out sliding object balls, or rolling object balls, or anywhere in between, it would be doing it for every sliding or rolling object ball of a certain speed regardless of how the cue ball was initially hit. You are doing something else and just do not realize it. By far the most likely is that you are just hitting draw shots harder than you realize. There are several reasons this commonly happens and the person shooting just doesn't realize it. Very common. You could also just be less accurate for some reason when using draw and less accuracy results in more rattling. There are a number of possible reasons, but putting draw on the cue ball is not one of them when at most it just gives the object ball natural roll just like it gets on the majority of your other shots by the time it gets to the pocket that were not being hit with draw.

 

[Poolplaya9]

This is utter bullshit and just wrong. OB doesn't bounce if the Cueball hits it with draw!! lol

No there's no bounce theory, here's why your pocket is spitting the object ball out. First and foremost this wouldn't happen on all tables, perhaps if I take you to another table you'd hit a OB with follow or draw and in both scenarios, they stay in the pocket. This concludes that your pocket rubber has an issue (either a sizing error or location error). Now if the pocket itself has a problem then why would it only spit out the draw shots, here's why.

In pool if two balls collide with each other they would reverse its spin, i.e. If one ball is rotating anti-clockwise and hits another ball, ball #2 will be rotating clockwise and vice versa. So imagine if a ball spinning backwards (the cueball) it will hit the next ball (object ball) this ball will be rotating forward. The opposite to this is also correct, if you hit your cueball with follow imagine it as a ball turning forward, thus contacting the object ball making it reverse the direction i.e. backward. You need to visualize this right now and you'd see that if you hit with follow, then the object ball will have a direction which favors it to just be taken inside the pocket after hitting the black-rubber cause of its spin. The opposite also applies which is why the pocket spat the ball out. You hit it with extreme draw thus the object ball is spinning forward and upon contact with the rubber it's like applying a force in the UPWARD direction which helps that the ball bounces off and out. You just need to imagine this otherwise I could draw & show you the effect on balls.

See the post above. This is nonsense. The most spin transfer you can get to an object ball from a draw shot is natural forward roll. You cannot get overspin. The majority of shots you shoot in pool have natural forward roll by the time they get to the pocket regardless of how the cue ball was initially hit, and if it was the natural forward roll the pocket wasn't liking it would be doing it to all the shots where the object ball was rolling when it got to the pocket even when the cue ball was hit with follow or stun.

The draw has nothing to do with a pocket seemingly rejecting draw shots of all distances. What is happening is the shooter is doing something else on their draw shots without realizing it that the pocket doesn't like (such as shooting harder or less accurately).

 

[Bob Jewett]

OB doesn't bounce if the Cueball hits it with draw!! lol ...

This is simply wrong. The object ball leaves the table for most draw shots. The upwards force due to the rubbing of the surface of the cue ball on the object ball creates a force on the center of the object ball larger than the force of gravity. That's because the contact is very brief and the ball-ball force is very large. Multiply the coefficient of friction between the balls (about 1 in 20) by the instantaneous force between them (many pounds) and the result is that the object ball is launched (slightly) off the cloth if the cue ball arrives at the contact point on the cloth. The launch angle will be roughly the same as the throw angle for a sidespin shot.

 

[Chili Palmer]

You obviously don't actually understand some very basic physics of pool if you think only draw on the cue ball is making your pockets spit out the balls regardless of shot distance as you have said. I already explained why but here goes again. By putting bottom on the cue ball, at most you are getting immediate natural forward roll on the object ball. You are not and cannot get "overspin". The pocket doesn't know or care how the cue ball was hit, it only knows what the object ball is doing when it gets there and if you hit the cue ball with draw the object ball will get there somewhere between fully sliding (on closer/harder shots) to being fully naturally rolling (on longer/slower shots).

If your table had a problem with spitting out sliding object balls, or rolling object balls, or anywhere in between, it would be doing it for every sliding or rolling object ball of a certain speed regardless of how the cue ball was initially hit. You are doing something else and just do not realize it. By far the most likely is that you are just hitting draw shots harder than you realize. There are several reasons this commonly happens and the person shooting just doesn't realize it. Very common. You could also just be less accurate for some reason when using draw and less accuracy results in more rattling. There are a number of possible reasons, but putting draw on the cue ball is not one of them when at most it just gives the object ball natural roll just like it gets on the majority of your other shots by the time it gets to the pocket that were not being hit with draw.

Please re-read my comments about pocket geometry playing a factor too

 

[Poolplaya9]

Please re-read my comments about pocket geometry playing a factor too

Please re-read my post again, you aren't understanding a bit of it. Seriously. Keep reading it until you get it because you are trying to defy all physics and this is actually very easy to see with just a little thought.

Let me simplify for you, and to make even even more simple let's just stick to the longest draw shots for now, say where the object ball is 6+ feet from the pocket. It doesn't matter if you hit the shot with draw, stun, or follow, by the time the object ball gets to the pocket it is on a full natural roll. Because of this it is IMPOSSIBLE for the pocket to treat differently the ones where the cue ball had been hit with draw as opposed to follow or stun because it has no way to know how the cue ball was hit as the object balls are all doing the exact same thing by the time they get to the pocket--rolling. The pocket doesn't know nor care how you hit the cue ball, all it knows is what the object ball is doing at the moment it reaches the pocket which in this case is rolling (and it also knows how fast it is rolling, and it also knows how accurately it was hit based on which part of the pocket it is going into).

So one of two things is going on here. Either 1) your pockets don't like rolling object balls for some weird reason, but if this were true it would be rejecting all of them at the same rate regardless of how you had initially hit the cue ball, or 2) if the pockets really are rejecting more of the long distance object balls where you had drawn the cue ball then you absolutely have to be doing something else during the draw shots that the pocket doesn't like that is actually making the difference, such as shooting harder or less accurately.

We know #1 isn't true because you have also already said that it is not rejecting all rolling object balls equally, it is only increasingly rejecting the ones where you had initially hit the cue ball with draw. So now we know without question that the problem can't be that your table just dislikes rolling object balls. Being that #2 was the only other possibility, we now know that it is in fact the culprit even though you are not able to perceive that you are doing something differently on the draw shots that the pocket doesn't like (none of us can perceive everything we do and don't do while shooting, so the fact that you don't realize that you are doing something else here that is making the difference is not abnormal but rather typical). You are without question doing something else on your draw shots that your pockets don't like, most likely hitting them firmer, possibly less accurately too.

There is actually a possibility #3, which is that your pockets are not treating your draw shots any differently at all and you just erroneously think they are because you haven't kept good enough track of it, but if there really is a difference it absolutely positively has to be because of #2, something else you are doing different on your draw shots such as more speed or less accuracy that the pockets aren't liking. There is no other possibility.