Jim......I agree 100%...this is also how I maintain my shafts, and have done for 35 years....to each his own, but I love for a shaft to feel like nothing but butter-smooth WOOD - no chemicals or polish.
- Ghost
Dollar Bills vs. Brown Paper for Shaft Burnishing
- Thread starter Dakota Cues
- Start date
Jim......I agree 100%...this is also how I maintain my shafts, and have done for 35 years....to each his own, but I love for a shaft to feel like nothing but butter-smooth WOOD - no chemicals or polish.
- Ghost
Actually this is what I'm going for as well. When I played more seriously years ago, the shaft on my playing cue was seasoned and smooth. It had a nice patina to it, and felt like glass. The problem was that I tried just about EVERYTHING on that shaft, and it was so long ago that I don't remember what I did to get it that way.
I do remember using lighter fluid, bills, brown paper, leather and a cardboard box on it, so somewhere in there was the magic combination for me. The good thing now is that I have some McDermott cues that I use as "house" cues, so I can try techniques out on those before moving to my nice custom cue.
Thanks again for the responses, and please keep the tips coming!
Thanks again guys.
Any more good tips out there???
Any more good tips out there???
Wow, that's some of the finest stuff I've seen.
Thanks JimS!
Thanks JimS!
blah blah
Shoebat
yech
dollars are dirty.
I really wouldn't rub one on my cue unless I knew it was brand, brand new...
Last summer there was a study that found that up to 90 percent of U.S. paper money contains traces of cocaine.
dollars are dirty.
I really wouldn't rub one on my cue unless I knew it was brand, brand new...
Last summer there was a study that found that up to 90 percent of U.S. paper money contains traces of cocaine.
Even a new bill has green ink that will slowly but surely transfer to your shaft.
RD3P
Banned
you know those "Smart Bags" Used for Grocery shopping....i cut one up the other day(walmart's version)...cleaned my shafts and used the bag to burnish....works good and reusable many times over.
i think they are made of some kind of nylon? or something.
seems to take out very light nics and scratches too...the texture of these bags is such where they have a grit...but the material isnt hard enuf to remove any wood....
sometimes i just use a paper napkin
i think they are made of some kind of nylon? or something.
seems to take out very light nics and scratches too...the texture of these bags is such where they have a grit...but the material isnt hard enuf to remove any wood....
sometimes i just use a paper napkin
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The KD products "Polysand" abrasive cloth is the finest stuff I've ever used. After resealing a shaft with shellac-based sealer, I use 1800,4000 and 8000 to get it smooth and slick. However, the abrasive binder is latex, so it doesn't like heat. On the advice of a floor-refinishing contractor, I use the paper bag material weekly. First an alcohol wipe-down, then a paper bag burnishing for the final finish. I'll go at least a year between reseals, and my shafts are always clean and glass-smooth.
Bill
Bill
1. I start with 220 and lightly hit the cue with that just to knock off the dirt.
2. Then I use 400,800 to get out small dents and so on.
3. Then I seal the shaft with mohawks lacover #30
4. Then I use a papertowl and a little amount of Butchers bowling alley wax to smooth it up good.
5. Then I take 2000 grit and rub it till my hand burns pretty good.
6. Shape the tip with 60-80 grit and burnish the side of it with spit and a piece of leather.
DONE
2. Then I use 400,800 to get out small dents and so on.
3. Then I seal the shaft with mohawks lacover #30
4. Then I use a papertowl and a little amount of Butchers bowling alley wax to smooth it up good.
5. Then I take 2000 grit and rub it till my hand burns pretty good.
6. Shape the tip with 60-80 grit and burnish the side of it with spit and a piece of leather.
DONE
After doing all the sanding mentioned above, I used to use the back of the sandpaper, or cardboard or brown paper bags, even tried burnishing with a leather work glove. The latest and greatest i have tried is red rosin paper. You know.. the 200' roll of paper left over from putting your floor down. Its made from recycled cardboard and is slightly more fibrous than paper bags and cardboard. I dont know if they still use rosin in the paper as a bonding and moisture wicking agent or not. But it burnishes extremely well and leaves the shaft slick and shiny. Try it out, you'd be suprised. BTW: i stop at 1000g sand paper, Anything finer is just pissing in the wind. If your not using a sanding block anyway, your just making the low spots lower (if your familiar with doing body work, you understand).
yes sir...lol
RD3P
While 220 grit cuts real fast, Some of the Cue Shafts I have refinished have needed 220 grit to start with. Of course a sanding block should be used. Cues kept in good shape will slick up very easy with 1000 grit. Some dings are so deep, steaming them still won't bring them out and filler must be used.
BTW I have now tried the Dollar Bill and Brown paper bag and really like the results. I used to use a cloth material. There is a small but noticable difference.
RD3P
Banned
i know i just wouldnt want Johny Budweiser to come on here after polishing a 12 pack, read this thread and think that its ok to "burnish" his shaft with 220. (wow i can really feel the heat, this must really be working, looks down 1 minute later, "holy Chit where did my shaft go")
i just dont recoment sandpaper for regular shaft maintaining..... i have used all kinds of things....from pledge to Oxi-clean(works if your cue is bleu'd up bad, sprinkle some on a slight damp towel and give her a rub....dry cue, then sand with 1000/1500/2000/burnish with walmart BLUE SMART bag/ paper napkin(the papery ones, not cottony ones) / polish withmicrofiber towel. in that order.....after that if you stay ontop of keeping things clean all youll need is the occasional napkin to burnish and microcloth to clean
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I like the way Secaucus starts out, with a damp Magic eraser and a quick drying with paper towel. After that, I follow some advice I believe cornerman put out a good while back, to burnish with white paper. I just let the shaft dry for a few minutes then grab a fresh piece from a box, do that embarrassing motion that gets your shaft hot :grin:... and that's it. Hate the thought of grinding down my shafts with sandpaper.
RD3P
I hate to admit but, 90% of the Cue shaft and tip work I do is for Johnny and Judy Budweiser. As such I don't get the high priced Cue sticks to work on. Most of what I work on feel more like a corn cob before I start. There is a big difference in doing those Cues and one that a real player has. My best customer (I do this more as a favor for people) is a guy who buys Cues from Pawn Shops all the time. What he wants with all those old junkers is be on me. But I am forever learning better ways to do this because of those people.