Dufferin joint question

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JC

JC

Coos Cues
Does anyone know if the wide aluminum ring is glued on or pressed onto the brass joint pin under the cracked plastic ring? Or maybe threaded?

I'm not entirely comfortable with my skill set to repair this cue if I don't understand it's construction and wonder if anyone has fixed one of these old shaft joints and have any words of wisdom.

Thanks,

JC

_DSC3319.jpg
 
These were just glued on, and awfully done

Use very sharp cutters and slow speeds.
 
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This is not a simple repair and may not be worth the time.
I don't believe that the aluminum is merely a ring as is encompasses the entire face of the shaft.
Open the ring to see what's underneath. You may find that you have to disassemble the entire joint
to replace the ring. Hence my statement of not being worth it. From what I can see, you have two other options.
#1 - Do an incredibly great job of gluing the ring back together, finish and make it disappear.

#2 - Split the ring off and fill the channel with black epoxy (or whatever color you and the client agree upon).

IMHO, that joint was never meant to be disassembled.
 
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When I cut into one of these, the brass and aluminum were a tight sleeve fit with glue, threaded. You'll spend more in labor disassembling than the whole cue is worth.

Heat the brass up and try to unscrew it

You can also cut all of that black collar off and just fill it with black epoxy to "fix" it without messing around with that old joint.
 
ideologist said:
When I cut into one of these, the brass and aluminum were a tight sleeve fit with glue, threaded. You'll spend more in labor disassembling than the whole cue is worth.

Heat the brass up and try to unscrew it

You can also cut all of that black collar off and just fill it with black epoxy to "fix" it without messing around with that old joint.
Click to expand...

That did it thanks. Used a heat gun. Here's what the joint looks like if anyone is interested.

JC

_DSC3321.jpg
 
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JC said:
That did it thanks. Used a heat gun. Here's what the joint looks like if anyone is interested.

JC
Click to expand...

Good job, everything else looks to be intact. Give him an upgrade to a black linen pheno ring. You won't see it again.
I have only the handle side of the joint in the shop, not the shaft side. They share the threaded stem concept.
Add this to your list of 'special ones'. Heat-gun ??? Dude, You got lucky. Ever seen stainless turn cherry-red ?
 
I'm currently working on one of these as well. I haven't messed with the shaft yet,but I can tell you the threaded brass section that goes into the butt,as well as the threaded section of the aluminum butt end of the joint is 1/2-13.

The one I'm working on made a horrible noise even though the joint was solid. It was the typical unwrapped version with the light colored maple grip.

I sawed it in half and the A joint is end grain to end grain,connected with an off-center furniture screw.

It's gonna be solid when I'm finished. Tommy D.
 
KJ Cues said:
This is not a simple repair and may not be worth the time.
I don't believe that the aluminum is merely a ring as is encompasses the entire face of the shaft.
Open the ring to see what's underneath. You may find that you have to disassemble the entire joint
to replace the ring. Hence my statement of not being worth it. From what I can see, you have two other options.
#1 - Do an incredibly great job of gluing the ring back together, finish and make it disappear.

#2 - Split the ring off and fill the channel with black epoxy (or whatever color you and the client agree upon).

IMHO, that joint was never meant to be disassembled.
Click to expand...

I thought once about the possibility on plain black collars of using a ring with a larger ID, and then splitting it (like a split collet) and gluing it at the split and all of faces. I would think it would hold up since there is a joint collar above it (albeit a LOT of work for a $30 Dufferin.)
 
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