dynamo conversion question

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prdryden

Registered
what is ideal subrail angle for K55 rubber? (subrail height is 1 3/4").

I have a dynamo 7footer built in the late 90's that I'm installing diamond K55 rubber.

The subrails that currently have K66 with a 17 degree angle.

I can either buy new subrails or use the existing which I will have to modify a bit (extend the surface that the face of the rubber is glued to).

Has anyone done this? any recommendations
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
prdryden said:
what is ideal subrail angle for K55 rubber? (subrail height is 1 3/4").

I have a dynamo 7footer built in the late 90's that I'm installing diamond K55 rubber.

The subrails that currently have K66 with a 17 degree angle.

I can either buy new subrails or use the existing which I will have to modify a bit (extend the surface that the face of the rubber is glued to).

Has anyone done this? any recommendations
Click to expand...

Contact Kerry, ridgebackrails.com....I spent a lot of time with Kerry designing special rails for Dynamo tables. The problem with the top rails becomes clear once you take a rail off, and place a square up against the face of the top rail...and see that it's face is slanted back about an 1/8" of an inch, which then once you bolt up a rail...that slant in the top rail cause the rail to change the nose height after it's bolted on....to a lower nose height.

Glen
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
prdryden said:
thanks Glen,
wouldn't that slant back raise the nose height?

Paul
Click to expand...

The problem is, it's a slant forward. When you bolt up the rails, the first place the rail block touches is at the top back side, at that point the bottom back side of the rail block is still about 1/8" out from the rail cap. Then when you tighten the rail bolts, they pull the bottom side towards the rail cap...causing the rail to tilt downward lowering the nose height.

Glen
 
P

prdryden

Registered
Rail slant

thx again Glen, it's more complicated than it looks that's why I posted the ques.

I've already bought the rubber otherwise I would buy the ridgebacks. I just need the correct blank rail liners cut a bit overlength and not mitred.

Another thing I've done is I've lasercut steel plate that I'll epoxy to the corners to change the shelf depth and radius. The rails will have a slightly different angle at the pockets so they don't eat every ball that comes near them.

It may be difficult to lower the slate as these may break (something I'll have to test.
 
P

prdryden

Registered
subrail angle

again, -what is ideal subrail angle for K55 rubber? (subrail height is 1 3/4").
Assuming the subrail is mounted perpendicular to the slate.
 
Johnnyt

Johnnyt

Burn all jump cues
Silver Member
Seems like a lot of work and money when you can buy a set of Ridgebacks and just bolt them on. I have them on my Valley and the pockets play much harder and the rails are very lively. Johnnyt
 
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prdryden

Registered
dynamo conversion

I understand the ridgeback rails play harder and are convenient. I have, however, ordered rubber already, so returning it when it gets here is going to be costly. My mistake, I should have ordered them. Is the original question either too simple or difficult to answer?
 
PoolTable911

PoolTable911

AdvancedBilliardSolutions
Silver Member
prdryden said:
I understand the ridgeback rails play harder and are convenient. I have, however, ordered rubber already, so returning it when it gets here is going to be costly. My mistake, I should have ordered them. Is the original question either too simple or difficult to answer?
Click to expand...

Must be to difficult.
 
ROB.M

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
rail

the valley rail core with k55 tour edition rubber from the factory has a 19 degree angle at 64% noise height...if there is 1/32 shortness in the tops 3/4 side of rail core, that is a cloth relief and the angle will need to be increased by 1 1/2 degrees...
there is many things that come in to play when cutting em'
-some rails was cut to play at 61% and 62% noise height...
Robert.M
 
P

prdryden

Registered
dynamo conversion

thanks, the link was useful. I've attached pictures of the shelf extensions I had cut. (they will bring the perpendicular distance from cushion nose from 3/4 to about 1-7/8" or 2". My subrails are 17 degrees and I know I can get a nose height of 1-7/16" with that angle.. All I have to do is add a bit of material so the rail will accept the wider face on the K55. I will mock it up first on the table to check the height. I measured the diamond pro-am (pocket openings -nose to noe are no tighter than the dynamo but it sure spits balls out due to the different angle ( the throat measured about 4-1/8 as opposed to 4-5/8 on the dynamo). If this doesn't work Ill buy a diamond (or I havn't forgotten, Ridgeback rails!)
 

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The Turk

The Turk

A Level Above Pool Tables
Silver Member
prdryden said:
thx again Glen, it's more complicated than it looks that's why I posted the ques.

I've already bought the rubber otherwise I would buy the ridgebacks. I just need the correct blank rail liners cut a bit overlength and not mitred.

Another thing I've done is I've lasercut steel plate that I'll epoxy to the corners to change the shelf depth and radius. The rails will have a slightly different angle at the pockets so they don't eat every ball that comes near them.

It may be difficult to lower the slate as these may break (something I'll have to test.
Click to expand...

I am curious as to how you are going to mount the shelf plates? I have toyed with the same idea for a while and cannot see a way to pull it off.
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I don't know if you've overlooked it or not, but once you've extended the pocket shelf on the Dynamo....the balls won't fit under the pocket shelf to go down the tracks anyway:D
 
P

prdryden

Registered
dynamo conversion ques

The balls will clear the extension plates after dropping. I did take this into account). they extend back about 1-1/8 to 1-1/4
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
prdryden said:
The balls will clear the extension plates after dropping. I did take this into account). they extend back about 1-1/8 to 1-1/4
Click to expand...

Only in the center of the pocket, if balls are not in the center of the gully boot when going down, they're going to get stuck, more than one ball at a time is going to get stuck. If it were a Valley table, it would be less of a problem, but Dynamo tables have very little clearence between the slate bottom and the top of the balls, even glue built up thick will catch the balls falling off center of the gully boot.

Glen
 
P

prdryden

Registered
dynamo conversion

the only issue is whether or not they adhere with epoxy enough to lower the slate back in and not break off (epoxy has good shear strength about 2000psi so it should hold)
 
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