Benelli
Well-known member
Absolutely, please have your CEO friend send over a couple of sets of balls to dissect
Dynaspheres Tungsten 572 Pool Ball Set
- Thread starter fuggles
- Start date
You would need to use a filler in both materials to bring them to exactly to 1.72 g/cm3 or the ball won't be regulation-weight.
Whatever dude. Believe what u want. Until someone proves otherwise i'm gonna stick with the co's answers. I agree, cut some in half and show us those phenolic over resin balls. i've never seen the pics mentioned by BJ.
Benelli
Well-known member
What Bob is referring to is situations like these:
There is one pic I can't find of a Aramith ball that has pieces of nine nine-ball inside it
That A'mith cueball has gotta be a knockoff. They are all over the place on asian sites. BTW, A'mith msg'd me and said the Continentals use/used the same resin mix as the Premier and Crown Standard. Difference is the Conti's have screen printed numbers. Some good info tossed around today. Off to hit some..............................What Bob is referring to is situations like these:
There is one pic I can't find of a Aramith ball that has pieces of nine nine-ball inside it
Benelli
Well-known member
I agree with this statement, emphasis on resin mix...
Yes, that's what I said. Also, you can effectively reduce any remaining error due to density errors by developing an accurate centering process. I'm not saying it's easy or even that it's done in current production. I'm just saying that if there were a large advantage to cored balls, it could be done.
Were you aware that blue circle cue balls had cores of a different material?
I didn't know that blue circles specifically had cores but I did know that many do. I've also seen broken balls myself with OB cores like shown above.
Good points above. I was thinking in terms of pure material but the idea of adding fillers to match densities is perfectly reasonable and something I didn't think much about.
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I really could care less what color any ball set is, I don't think the color of the balls makes you miss....hey, I didn't think of that....the color of the balls is making me miss
polyester resin balls. save your money.
that pic of the torn open cueball is a knockoff. no aramith balls are made like that. the market is flooded with aramith fakes. if its not from a known dealer AND in original package there's a good chance its a fake. as for the blue circle's with cores those may have been made by Hyatt. Since A'mith took over making Cent's(44yrs ago) i doubt they made any that way.
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It’s not a knockoff. Aramith coin opp CB’s start as another OB, then the magnetic layer is added. They’ve been shared on here cut/broken open for 20 years.
until aramith tells me that i'm not going for it. they make three diff. mag. balls: one has a magnet in the center, the other have magnetic particles mixed in. still think its a fake.
Speaking of cores, Ivan Lee was discussing with me this year at a tournament that the "Aramith Duramith Tournament Set" is made differently than the other sets, (within the Aramith brand only). I didn't understand him fully at the time, but it was something to the effect of the center of the ball is made first, and then the rest of the ball is added to it. That's why the numbers on the Tournament Set are perfectly centered compared to other sets (within the Aramith line). He made it seem as if it was a difficult process but they were able to figure it out, and the result is a higher quality ball overall.
Also of note, he's the president of Simonis USA too. He said he has 760 on his home table
<== Loves 760.
Also of note, he's the president of Simonis USA too. He said he has 760 on his home table
<== Loves 760.
The tournaments have an outer layer that is like a glass material. They call it 'vitrification' which is a fancy name for a glass-like surface. That's why they stay cleaner and burn less. i've seen pics of a tournament cut in half and there's no separate core, just a phenolic ball with a fancy outer surface.Speaking of cores, Ivan Lee was discussing with me this year at a tournament that the "Aramith Duramith Tournament Set" is made differently than the other sets, (within the Aramith brand only). I didn't understand him fully at the time, but it was something to the effect of the center of the ball is made first, and then the rest of the ball is added to it. That's why the numbers on the Tournament Set are perfectly centered compared to other sets (within the Aramith line). He made it seem as if it was a difficult process but they were able to figure it out, and the result is a higher quality ball overall.
Also of note, he's the president of Simonis USA too. He said he has 760 on his home table
<== Loves 760.
This was different. It affected the concentricity of all the inlays. Made the ball more aesthetically perfect. Ask him since you have his ear
I honestly don’t remember it well, just what I said here.This was different. It affected the concentricity of all the inlays. Made the ball more aesthetically perfect. Ask him since you have his ear
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Regardless of all the hoopla, my Tungsten and Palladium sets have been played hard and long for over 2 years. Still look like they just came out of the box. I have Centennials and Tournaments. These Dynaspheres are both as good or better than tournaments and DEAFINITELY better that Centennials, just do not look as classic. The OB's are ALL about the same in wear across all these sets, I see the difference over time primarily in cue ball wear as it takes the most punishment. I know there is a lot of discussion about ArcosII balls as well, and I would put them as better than Centennials, as good as Tournaments although many here swear that is not true. I'm not scientific just play a couple hours every day and the is my real experience.