Easy finish (cheap, short time)

JoeyInCali said:
It sure would be. Fast, no polishing, very durable and more environmental friendly.
If it shines like Dupont clear, it'd be the nuts.


one of the tricks is the polishing and that's what makes it similar to conventional methods. there is "material" available that lends itself to attain that "glass" or "wet ice" like finish similar to but beyond that of conventional methods. i think it's just a matter of time (short imo) before it's recognized as a better way to complete the work.
 
skins said:
one of the tricks is the polishing and that's what makes it similar to conventional methods. there is "material" available that lends itself to attain that "glass" or "wet ice" like finish similar to but beyond that of conventional methods. i think it's just a matter of time (short imo) before it's recognized as a better way to complete the work.


Yes, but the real question is ........."How does it hit?"


<~~~always a smartass in every crowd..............
 
i have used super glue with an excelerater. alot of cuemakers use it for shafts but i have dont entire cues in it. fast and easy. dries sandible in 1 min
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Yes, but the real question is ........."How does it hit?"


<~~~always a smartass in every crowd..............

.......yea......that would seem to be the "obvious" question...................here..;) :)
 
I think Ed Prewitt is now using UV finish. The cues sparkle like auto clear coat was used, but I think Ed works his arse off to polish them well. I love the way my new Prewitt plays and never though for a moment that the finish would contribute anything to the hit...Houston would be fun Dave, but I'm more likely to make it to Kansas City next year. Joey...I agree your wife is a beauty...and she gets lots of points for tolerating your sawdust!

Martin


BarenbruggeCues said:
Yes, but the real question is ........."How does it hit?"


<~~~always a smartass in every crowd..............
 
jazznpool said:
I think Ed Prewitt is now using UV finish. The cues sparkle like auto clear coat was used, but I think Ed works his arse off to polish them well. I love the way my new Prewitt plays and never though for a moment that the finish would contribute anything to the hit...Houston would be fun Dave, but I'm more likely to make it to Kansas City next year. Joey...I agree your wife is a beauty...and she gets lots of points for tolerating your sawdust!

Martin

I think the UV stuff falls into the same catagory as say Bluetooth technology. Three years ago I wouldn't have thought about it......don't know how I'd do without mine now. It's an amazing piece of electronics.
I'd say in about 2 more years your going to start hearing more and more about the UV stuff. It's getting closer but I'm still going to let it work in the wash for a while before I jump in and take a closer look.
 
I've had a U.V. system for a little over 3 years now and hate it. Some people seem to be happy with them but I'm not one of them. I've tried three different brands of U.V. finish and none of them can be rubbed out to a satisfactory shine. If you can apply a perfect finish then the stuff shines beautifully but if there is any spot that needs rubbed out, you're in trouble. The three finishes that I've tried, totaling over a 1,000.00 in material, will not adhere to Cocobolo nor phenolic. You have to find a good sealer that will stick well to both these items and that the U.V. material will stick well to. Many people are using Menzerna or other polishes as it really makes the finish shine pretty well after wet sanding, Thing is, these are just polishes and will where away leaving the very dull rubbed out finish behind. I know one cue maker who had to recall almost 100 cues to refinish because of this.

I've found, the only way to utilize the equipment that I have, is to spray on a sealer that really works on Cocobolo and phenolics, I then put on as many coats of U.V. to completely fill the grain and then I put on a Urethane auto finish as it is so easy to rub out.

I can put a finish on a cue in an evening if I desire as the sealer I am using can be covered in less than an hour and the U.V. only takes a few minutes to apply and an hour or so later I can put on the auto finish. I know I've got a lot of money invested in a grain filler.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I've had a U.V. system for a little over 3 years now and hate it. Some people seem to be happy with them but I'm not one of them. I've tried three different brands of U.V. finish and none of them can be rubbed out to a satisfactory shine. If you can apply a perfect finish then the stuff shines beautifully but if there is any spot that needs rubbed out, you're in trouble. The three finishes that I've tried, totaling over a 1,000.00 in material, will not adhere to Cocobolo nor phenolic. You have to find a good sealer that will stick well to both these items and that the U.V. material will stick well to. Many people are using Menzerna or other polishes as it really makes the finish shine pretty well after wet sanding, Thing is, these are just polishes and will where away leaving the very dull rubbed out finish behind. I know one cue maker who had to recall almost 100 cues to refinish because of this.

I've found, the only way to utilize the equipment that I have, is to spray on a sealer that really works on Cocobolo and phenolics, I then put on as many coats of U.V. to completely fill the grain and then I put on a Urethane auto finish as it is so easy to rub out.

I can put a finish on a cue in an evening if I desire as the sealer I am using can be covered in less than an hour and the U.V. only takes a few minutes to apply and an hour or so later I can put on the auto finish. I know I've got a lot of money invested in a grain filler.

Dick

dick,
keith's finish is among the nicest there is and he uses a UV system and loves it. you have to have the right material and know how to work with it. maybe theres something your not doing right or some information your lacking???
 
rhncue said:
I've had a U.V. system for a little over 3 years now and hate it. Some people seem to be happy with them but I'm not one of them. I've tried three different brands of U.V. finish and none of them can be rubbed out to a satisfactory shine. If you can apply a perfect finish then the stuff shines beautifully but if there is any spot that needs rubbed out, you're in trouble. The three finishes that I've tried, totaling over a 1,000.00 in material, will not adhere to Cocobolo nor phenolic. You have to find a good sealer that will stick well to both these items and that the U.V. material will stick well to. Many people are using Menzerna or other polishes as it really makes the finish shine pretty well after wet sanding, Thing is, these are just polishes and will where away leaving the very dull rubbed out finish behind. I know one cue maker who had to recall almost 100 cues to refinish because of this.

I've found, the only way to utilize the equipment that I have, is to spray on a sealer that really works on Cocobolo and phenolics, I then put on as many coats of U.V. to completely fill the grain and then I put on a Urethane auto finish as it is so easy to rub out.

I can put a finish on a cue in an evening if I desire as the sealer I am using can be covered in less than an hour and the U.V. only takes a few minutes to apply and an hour or so later I can put on the auto finish. I know I've got a lot of money invested in a grain filler.

Dick


These are some of the things that need to be worked out before I'd take the plunge.
Takes me a little longer to finish a cue using epoxy sealer and spraying dupont but if I were in a hurry get something out of the shop(smack me for saying that) once the epoxy has set for a day I could, if I needed too, start spraying around 9-10 in the mourning and after two, two coat sessions, wet sand and be polishing before 3 pm and out the door by 5.
Too much work to do all that in just one day though!
I broke a sweat just typing it...........

<~~~likes to take my time when putting on a finish............
 
skins said:
dick,
keith's finish is among the nicest there is and he uses a UV system and loves it. you have to have the right material and know how to work with it. maybe theres something your not doing right or some information your lacking???

I'm sure there is something that works but I haven't found it. Samsara cues and Paul Dayton haven't found it yet either as they are using the same stuff and doing it the same way as I am. One cue maker I know told me what he is using and how good it is. I ordered some last month and tried the sealer/filler today on some experiments. It stuck to the phenolic fine but I can run my finger nail up the length of a piece of cocobolo and it just flakes right off. Sooo, if anyone wants to give me the secret to this technology, then I'm all ears.

Dick
 
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BarenbruggeCues said:
These are some of the things that need to be worked out before I'd take the plunge.
Takes me a little longer to finish a cue using epoxy sealer and spraying dupont but if I were in a hurry get something out of the shop(smack me for saying that) once the epoxy has set for a day I could, if I needed too, start spraying around 9-10 in the mourning and after two, two coat sessions, wet sand and be polishing before 3 pm and out the door by 5.
Too much work to do all that in just one day though!
I broke a sweat just typing it...........

<~~~likes to take my time when putting on a finish............

I don't do my finishes that quickly either. Usually I wait a day after putting on the U.V. before I put on the automotive and then I used to wait 24 hrs. before rubbing out. The finish I use says it can be rubbed out 4 to 6 hrs. after spraying. This past spring I got hurt and had two cues to rub out. I waited a week to rub them out and the finish turned out so much better. Now, I wait at least 5 to 7 days before rubbing out. There is no need to rush a finish on a new cue. However, I do an awful lot of repairs on cues. I make between 100 and 150 shafts a year for others cues and do much joint and butt cap repairs. This was the main reason that I purchased the U.V. system to start with. I was very happy with my previous finish and would put it up against about any other cue maker out there. I was looking for something good and quick for repairs and if it would also do a good job as a full finish on cues then that would be an extra benefit. Turns out that it is to slow for repairs so, like I said previously, I've got a ferry expensive grain filler.

Dick
 
Easy finish

I've seen Keith's finish since he's switched to UV and can attest to it's quality. Keith had a good quote, he said he wouldn't switch, just because it was faster, it had to also be better. If I remember right, a conventional sealer, then uv pore filler, then uv finish. I want to try it, but the guys at unique say my UV light isn't powerful enough(wimpy 200watts per inch) and if you don't cook the finish correctly, it won't buff/polish out correctly. One of the nice things about theirs is that there is still solvent in the topcoat, and it will burn into the coat under it. But because of that, you have to have the cue rotating for a while, while the solvent flashes off. Of course that's all handled with their pizza oven outfit. If I just had the money.

I've had all the same experiences as Dick has had with the other UV products out there. Dick if I might suggest, still wet sand and polish after 24 hours, then wait the 6/7 days and polish again. Much easier to wet sand on the "soft finish". After the 6/7 days, the finish will get a slight surface haze as it continues to flash solvent, but one quick pass with polish or swirl remover and it's brilliant again.

Dave, I'd do that triple French polish on the cue for you, but I'm not sure my tongue will last that long.
 
cutter said:
I've seen Keith's finish since he's switched to UV and can attest to it's quality. Keith had a good quote, he said he wouldn't switch, just because it was faster, it had to also be better. If I remember right, a conventional sealer, then uv pore filler, then uv finish. I want to try it, but the guys at unique say my UV light isn't powerful enough(wimpy 200watts per inch) and if you don't cook the finish correctly, it won't buff/polish out correctly. One of the nice things about theirs is that there is still solvent in the topcoat, and it will burn into the coat under it. But because of that, you have to have the cue rotating for a while, while the solvent flashes off. Of course that's all handled with their pizza oven outfit. If I just had the money.

I've had all the same experiences as Dick has had with the other UV products out there. Dick if I might suggest, still wet sand and polish after 24 hours, then wait the 6/7 days and polish again. Much easier to wet sand on the "soft finish". After the 6/7 days, the finish will get a slight surface haze as it continues to flash solvent, but one quick pass with polish or swirl remover and it's brilliant again.

Dave, I'd do that triple French polish on the cue for you, but I'm not sure my tongue will last that long.


Somebody say pizza?........................starting to get a little hungry here.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Somebody say pizza?........................starting to get a little hungry here.

ok....ya' did it now!!......i'm off to White Castles................

------ it's not pizza but at 1 am it's the next best thing ----
 
skins said:
ok....ya' did it now!!......i'm off to White Castles................

------ it's not pizza but at 1 am it's the next best thing ----

No Pizza? We have one pizza shop here, that I know of, that stays open till 4:00 A.M. on weekends.

Dick
 
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