Economizing your Custom Cue

Bustah360

Bustah360

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm trying to think of a way to come up with specs for my custom cue. Obviously the more want on it, the more it'll be. Depending who the cue maker is, also depends how much you'll break the bank as well. What I wanted to know from anyone here is, what types of exotic woods are typically inexpensive therefore knocking down the price of a cue?

I noticed that you can supplement ebony/ivory inlays for others like curly maple, or holly wood. Honestly the end result doesn't necessarily take off the beauty of the cue doing it that way and saves you a pretty penny. Would anyone know of others? Thx!
 
Going with a linen wrap as opposed to a leather or wrapless. Eliminating or simplifying any ringwork. No points. No veneered points. No inlays.

Lisa
 
In addition to the above points:

- plain maple vs birdseye or curly as the base wood
- linen phenolic for the joint and butt cap
- one shaft vs two (how often do most of us really need a second shaft?)
- non-ivory ferrule and less expensive tip (unfortunately, this may be the one area that most affects the "hit" of the cue)
- if you go with inlays, use ones that the cue maker has already done, potentially saving CNC programming time or his cost to create a new pantograph pattern.

Hope this helps some.
 
Omitting any wrap whatsoever will save you around $150. And I think that you'll find shooting without a wrap might well be preferable.
 
I have found it to be more comfortable for me to play without a wrap. I have a long reach arm wise, so whenever I play with a wrapped cue my stroke hand is always half off the wrap, half on the butt sleeve. Playing with a sneaky predator with no wrap I've felt more comfortable. I've tried out someone's Murell cue without a wrap and it felt just as comfortable.

kokopuffs said:
Omitting any wrap whatsoever will save you around $150. And I think that you'll find shooting without a wrap might well be preferable.
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Most cue makers are not going to charge extra for woods unless you use Burls, snakewood, pink ivory, olive etc. Holly is a great substiture for Ivory. Just research your cuemakers and try to look at as many cues as possible to narrow down what you want. www.daytoncues.com has some great examples of inlay work etc.
 
kokopuffs said:
Omitting any wrap whatsoever will save you around $150. And I think that you'll find shooting without a wrap might well be preferable.
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I have to disagree here. A cuemaker can use an ugly piece of maple and hide it under a wrap. On a wrapless cue it has to be figured as nicely as the forearm piece. Many if not all charge more for wrapless cues. I know with Coker it's plus a 100 for wrapless.

Andy
The Wrapless Wonder
 
Point well taken. My wrapless Phillipi was made using an utterly beautiful piece of BEM for the butt which really draws lots oohhs and aahhs at the table. With an ebony forearm, 2 shafts with ivory ferrules and black plastic rings surrounding the threads, and a wooden joint - it all costed $750 around 2 1/2 years ago. And the white buttcap was made with 'simulated ivory': it has an ivory-like grain.
 
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I personally found it possible to hold the butt with a much more relaxed grip if it's wrapless, which allows for overall more relaxed performance. And I can put much more spin when the hand is totally relaxed... Laquered wood just grips to fingers better than any linen or leather wrap. Just MO though.
 
I feel exactly the same way about wrapless cues. I think that having a wrap of any type causes you to readjust your grip when you stroke for a shot. That can be a pain in the ass, cuz you know you don't wanna add another variable for comfort when shooting. You got enough shit racing through you mind when you're down on a shot to worry about something simple like comfort. Then you have to do it the right way and get up completely, re-evaluate, and get back down to the shot...LOL! I hate getting back up on a shot man, but you have to do it.

Bulwinkl said:
I personally found it possible to hold the butt with a much more relaxed grip if it's wrapless, which allows for overall more relaxed performance. And I can put much more spin when the hand is totally relaxed... Laquered wood just grips to fingers better than any linen or leather wrap. Just MO though.
Click to expand...
 
Wanna thank everyone for giving me input. I really do appreciate that. I have recently bought a cue off of someone here in the city. Its a Kenneth Murrell cue.

Haven't taken any pics yet, but its a plain jane, with tiger maple on forearm and butt sleave; ABCD&E ringwork; 2 shafts; natural linen joint collar and butt cap; and a really gorgeous piece of tulip wood for the wrap area. This cue hits great! Soft touch with a stiff taper, I honestly don't even have to replace the shaft with a predator. I'm playing with it as is. Received a couple of "oooh's and aahhh's" when the fellas took site of the tulipwood on it. Really nice looking cue with nothing expensive on it that plays great. Trying my luck with this baby at the expo this year!
 
Less expensive cues

What you are really paying for is labor, not materials. While it may be cheaper to get a non wrap cue, I find them tougher to resell.

While I can understand your point of getting in as cheaply as possible, try to think resell as well.

I recommend 4 point vaneered cue, with a wrap. Joint of choice and probably non-ivory ferrelles.

My point is if you can get a cheap cue for 400 or spend the extra 1-200 for the minor basics your resell will be much, much better.

Ken
 
Ken_4fun said:
What you are really paying for is labor, not materials. While it may be cheaper to get a non wrap cue, I find them tougher to resell.

While I can understand your point of getting in as cheaply as possible, try to think resell as well.

I recommend 4 point vaneered cue, with a wrap. Joint of choice and probably non-ivory ferrelles.

My point is if you can get a cheap cue for 400 or spend the extra 1-200 for the minor basics your resell will be much, much better.

Ken
Click to expand...


totally agreed!!!!!~
 
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