quit it guys. stop being like a buncha babies !
Ed Wheat
- Thread starter Dawgie
- Start date
LoGiC said:
Thanks for the plug there Logic, However, the Dawgi is not my Buddy. You see in the Military where I spent most of my adult life, a buddy is some one who go's down town and gets two of something, and brings you back one.
So Bubba, I have no Buddies, maybe you do
, however I only acquaintances and friends. Live long and prosper!!!!!
I have built a number of 60 inch cues for players, in fact I also play with one myself. I am a big Table player (41/2 by 9) and I have found that many players who also play on big tables like a longer cue for the extended reach. The key to building a 60 inch cue is balance, with slightly forward heavy being preferred by most. There is nothing worst than 60 inch cue that is Butt Heavy in my opinion, it will cause the average person using one have problems with the speed control. In most cases the extra weight in the rear will over power most shots.
In the end I suspect that it is really a question of preference, and there is no wrong answer, only what is best for each of us.
Have a good night!!!!
manwon said:Thanks for the plug there Logic, However, the Dawgi is not my Buddy. You see in the Military where I spent most of my adult life, a buddy is some one who go's down town and gets two of something, and brings you back one.
I have built a number of 60 inch cues for players, in fact I also play with one myself. I am a big Table player (41/2 by 9) and I have found that many players who also play on big tables like a longer cue for the extended reach. The key to building a 60 inch cue is balance, with slightly forward heavy being preferred by most. There is nothing worst than 60 inch cue that is Butt Heavy in my opinion, it will cause the average person using one have problems with the speed control. In most cases the extra weight in the rear will over power most shots.
In the end I suspect that it is really a question of preference, and there is no wrong answer, only what is best for each of us.
Have a good night!!!!
Well, whatever you to may be- I won't judge.
Back to the cue discussion, can you make a 60" cue forward balanced, using no weight bolts? And using a 3/8x11 or radial pin? What woods would you choose for this, if you wanted a 18.8-19.1 oz cue?
EDIT: This is an open question to any cue maker too, just to hear what would be said about the cue's construction.
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LoGiC said:
First to answer your question, I do not use weight bolts in my cues, and the butts are Epoxy filled to deter any from being added which would change the cues balance. Currently I am not building anything with a Radial or a 3/8-11 pins. I do, however, use 5/16-18, 5/16-14, 3/8-10 Piloted or flat faced joints. For me 3/8-10 is the preferred pin, which on my cues is screwed into a Phenolic Shaft Insert, which makes it fit tight from the beginning until snug.
Any wood can be used in the construction of a cue in the above weight range. The real consideration is if the person wants the cue cored or non-cored, if they do not want a cored cue, then wood will become a consideration.
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Pete Omen gave a friend of mine a 60" cue to play with while he was building him one. I had the chance to buy it but it was before I was actually making money in life and then sadly had no chance to buy. God, if I could go back in time I would own that thing right now. That particular cue just "had that IT" factor, I have yet to find one to this day that felt or played as good.
Craig,i haven't built one yet.it was a few years ago when i was collecting and flipping cues all the time.i went through a phase where i thought i would play better with a longer cue,i am about 6'2".i tried a bunch of different cuemakers cues that were 60" and they just didn't feel as good as the shorter cues,more vibration and whip.
i am by no means saying they can't be done right ansd knowing you and Hu,you guys probably have something figured out on them to make them play better,but the one i tried just didn't stand up to the shorter cues.i hope one day to have time to experiment with some.i mighrt try some that were about .880" at the joint.
masonh said:
Mason, I have found that when making 60 inch a cue that the shaft and the butt should be equal Length 30 inches each. I normally Straight taper the cue from between 1.250 and 1.215 at the butt to .870 at the joint, this depends upon the customer. Some like a thinner handle area and others like the handle more of a standard size.
In addition, to strengthen the cues hit, I use Phenolic Tubing starting just inside the handle and continuing out the back of the cues butt. The tube is back filled with a hard wood dowel over filled with epoxy. The cues joint collar should be 1 inch long with Phenolic tubing in front and behind your rings, with at least a half inch forward of the ring.
In addition, I also use a Phenolic Shaft insert, I bore a hole one inch deep into the shaft. The finished ID should be 7/16 diameter, for the insert I use 500 OD Canvas Phenolic Rod Stock, the same type I use for jump break ferrules. I turn the rod stock down to .424 OD so it fits tight into the shaft and epoxy it in place. Later when the epoxy is set, I bore my hole in the Phenolic for my pin hole and tap it to the desired thread size, normally 3/8-10. However, you can use this method for any pin size.
This is how I do it Mason!!!
Have a good day
Craig
manwon said:
Craig, I am not sure how Paul does it....but having owned one of his 60" cues in the past, they play fairly stiff....definitely not whippy at all! Oddly, they just do not feel like a 60" cue in the hand....I just had a tough time transitioning back to the 58" length, is all.
But I do know this...the 60" cues are quite popular here in the PNW...not sure why, but there are a ton of players switching over to them.
Lisa
WheatCues
Banned
Dawgie said:
I will be more than happy to elaborate on that...
I appologize for the kids interruptive responses to your mature and practical question DIRECTED AT ED WHEAT... it seems these "clowns" like to speak for me whenever possible... I never realized how popular I am until now... I must be something right to attract this much attention and to have them jump in !
My researched anology of why the neccessity of 60" cues have become more popular is this:
Back in the day the conical standard taper 57" house cues were sufficient when open-handed bridges were very common and prodominatley used partialy becasue it was easier to follow through with your stroke... then 2-piece custom cues came on the scene at 58" with a pro-taper to give the players a little more length as well as giving them a more consistant comfortable follow through and then the closed hand bridge became preferred overall due to increased accuracy when applying power strokes and draw shots...
That was sufficient for most players and if taller and/or longer armspand players needed a little extra length, a custom "snooker shaft" usually 30" was an available option by a custom cuemaker....
This was the norm for many years until the 80's when the European's decided they needed longer tapers and this is when the Euro pro-taper was introduced and we incorporated this into our general cuemaking specifications...
Now this is where it gets interesting... Due to the extended taper this inadvertantly caused most players to develop a longer strokes and bridge lengths and this in turn forced you to slide you grip hand back even further to compensate for the bridged length and this also throwing the original balance point way off kilter and alot of the players are gripping the cue between the wrap and buttsleeve on the avg. shot...
So this is where I come in.... Not only do I build longer cues that are engineered to compensate for your unique armspand and bridge-length, I also build the cue completely around your hand which is centered on the wrap, this way no matter where you are on the entire length of the wrap you're GUARANTEED to be within your relevant balance point no matter if you have to choke-up or expand your grip on each shot !
Overall the players have evolved as well the equipment and "traditional" cuemaking is antiquated.... this is the 21st century and there are simply more options available now than were back then and I encourage any player who wants to improve thier overall performance to obtain a custom fitted cue from any cuemaker who offers these specifications....
And to those who do NOT want to spend big money for "tools" to achieve this goal then "WheatCues" is the obvious choice !
As expected there will be the few select "clowns" that will manipulate everything I stated and try to make me look bad or incompetent, but all I have to say about that is view the thread "REQUESTED PICS OF WHEATCUES" that should give you a real good understanding of what kind of quality and praises you can expect from my custom fitted cues starting at 350.00...
I hope this answers you question !
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
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WheatCues said:
Thanks for the info. Actually I had read that the so called "avg" cue was designed for the "avg" player. Over time Americans have grown about a 1' since the 1960's. It would make sense to make the cue a little longer to accommodate height increase.
LoGiC said:
I don't want to waste your time explaining something to you that you have limited ability to understand. Maybe you can explain it to me, maybe you can add something of importance to this thread. Please enlighten me with your knowledge on cue construction, I am a Hack and I admitt it. Like I said, I am certain KV can build a cue to your liking so LOGICALLY WHY WOULD YOU GO ANYWHERE ELSE Mr. Logic.
I am not a cue maker, I am a cue assembler, my crude abilities and idea's would not satisfy your curious nature.Have a great day!!!!!!!! Sweet Heart!!!!!!!!!
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Those "Kids" and "clowns" kept this question from falling to page 14 or deeper,even gone....nice job insulting em all though.
Go for the throat Ed.Go for the throat.