Effect on Cue Butt with Delrin Collets

ok.. Then I probably can say I am doing something right after seeing the last two comments by pescadoman and JoeyInCali.

Thanks for the sharing!
 
Newsheriffintwn said:
Lay some strips of blue painters tape long ways where the collets will set. The tape obviously cannot overlap, The collets will set on the tape when chucked up on...finish issues will be gone as long as you are not tightening the chuck excessively.
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Blue painters tape is what I also recommend.
Wrap two layers where the collets will be and cut the tape so it don't overlap.

Willee
 
Perhaps the collets themselves need to be looked at MUCH more closely.

Unless you are using a lathe with an automatic feed and a well-honed boring bar that is specifically radiused for Delrin so you get the best surface finish possible,it is probably the feed lines left from machining that are causing the problem.

I know it can be a pain,but they probably need to be polished out on the inside to at least 1000 grit and cleaned well,and looked at under a jeweler's loupe and a strong light source to see where you are,then proceed. Tommy D.
 
Occasionally the fix is one of the simplest ways.
I've never in 20 plus years made a collet longer than one inch and I've made them from just about any material I've had handy. From delrin to hard plastic to phenolic and occasionally in a pinch needed a quick one made from maple.
Tape will work but IMO is a pain in ass to use under a collet. I have, however, used tape as a collet wrapped around a piece when I've been in a pinch and don't feel like taking the time to make a new one.

The trick is none of these collet materials that I've used to make the collet with touch the finished cue.
All of the above collets I'm referring to are used inside my spindle.

I don't use any of those collet materials for holding any type of cue with a finish inside the chuck. I use a different material that my friend turned me on to that can be tightened fairly tight on the cue with no worries of the cue spinning inside it and never leaving a mark on the cue. It's is also stiff enough that I can dial the cue in and do rigid work on the cue if necessary.

Sometimes you must think outside the box.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Occasionally the fix is one of the simplest ways.
I've never in 20 plus years made a collet longer than one inch and I've made them from just about any material I've had handy. From delrin to hard plastic to phenolic and occasionally in a pinch needed a quick one made from maple.
Tape will work but IMO is a pain in ass to use under a collet. I have, however, used tape as a collet wrapped around a piece when I've been in a pinch and don't feel like taking the time to make a new one.

The trick is none of these collet materials that I've used to make the collet with touch the finished cue.
All of the above collets I'm referring to are used inside my spindle.

I don't use any of those collet materials for holding any type of cue with a finish inside the chuck. I use a different material that my friend turned me on to that can be tightened fairly tight on the cue with no worries of the cue spinning inside it and never leaving a mark on the cue. It's is also stiff enough that I can dial the cue in and do rigid work on the cue if necessary.

Sometimes you must think outside the box.
Click to expand...

Cough it up.
Teflon?
 
I just bought another shop out at the end of last month, and the guy had a bunch of collets. I have not figured them all out yet, but suspect some are used for the UV spray booth as those slip into a metal holder with no through hole.. But he had one collet that caught my attention because it was made out of Urethane instead of Delrin and was pretty soft. It was not sliced and it fit into a bearing. I have not used it to know whether it is a great idea or not, but just letting you guys know what I saw.
 
cueman said:
.....But he had one collet that caught my attention because it was made out of Urethane instead of Delrin and was pretty soft. It was not sliced and it fit into a bearing. I have not used it to know whether it is a great idea or not, but just letting you guys know what I saw.
Click to expand...


Maybe a skateboard wheel machined to size, inside polished and then split would work..

Skins ---------- rode a Logan Ski with Gull Wing trucks, Koyo bearings, with Bones and Kryptonic wheels......Back in the day.. :) .:cool:
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Occasionally the fix is one of the simplest ways.
I've never in 20 plus years made a collet longer than one inch and I've made them from just about any material I've had handy. From delrin to hard plastic to phenolic and occasionally in a pinch needed a quick one made from maple.
Tape will work but IMO is a pain in ass to use under a collet. I have, however, used tape as a collet wrapped around a piece when I've been in a pinch and don't feel like taking the time to make a new one.

The trick is none of these collet materials that I've used to make the collet with touch the finished cue.
All of the above collets I'm referring to are used inside my spindle.

I don't use any of those collet materials for holding any type of cue with a finish inside the chuck. I use a different material that my friend turned me on to that can be tightened fairly tight on the cue with no worries of the cue spinning inside it and never leaving a mark on the cue. It's is also stiff enough that I can dial the cue in and do rigid work on the cue if necessary.

Sometimes you must think outside the box.
Click to expand...

And this material would be??????????
 
Would be interesting to see your kind of collets made, for example their appearances. Trying to get some inspiration to properly make collets... :D :D
 
I would think that a more grippy material would be the way to go. Teflon, Delrin etc. Is very slippery. Maybe collets made from Nylon would be better?
The skateboard wheel idea sounds interesting.
 
Kim Bye said:
I would think that a more grippy material would be the way to go. Teflon, Delrin etc. Is very slippery. Maybe collets made from Nylon would be better?
The skateboard wheel idea sounds interesting.
Click to expand...

Try machining nylon and let us know. :D
 
Nylon

JoeyInCali said:
Try machining nylon and let us know. :D
Click to expand...

Hi Joey, turning Nylon is a test to see of your tools are actually sharp or just look sharp. Will test your thoughts on speeds and feeds for plastics as well. That is when you discover that high rpm on plastics is actually a bad idea and how much the material can change in dimension because of it's water absorption, particularly when using water based coolants.
Neil
 
conetip said:
Hi Joey, turning Nylon is a test to see of your tools are actually sharp or just look sharp. Will test your thoughts on speeds and feeds for plastics as well. That is when you discover that high rpm on plastics is actually a bad idea and how much the material can change in dimension because of it's water absorption, particularly when using water based coolants.
Neil
Click to expand...

Yes.
I cut down ferrule materials with a jeweler's saw.
I slow down the spindle when cutting them.
Also coat the saw with a lube.

I've cut down nylon spacers that way too.

I don't like working with them.
Teflon, Delrin and UHMW are so much easier to work with.
 
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