Envelope Case Feeler

Did you get my last email with the new sketches?

If you tried to email me something - then NO - I did not.

Send me a PM and I will send you my email address. I did have an email change.


I agree that quivers do not need to be closed on the end, unless you are very satisfied the one shooting arrows at you is a worse shot. I do think a double snap that could wear out could be improved on.

Minimize the Risk of cues dropping out, but do not make it as complex as breaking into Fort Knox.

Double the closure methods and really reduce the risk. Consider the double snap plus a belt type colsure on top of that.

Some day somewhere someone carring an envelop case with a mediocre closure will learn a valuable leason. :yikes:
:crying::crying::crying:
 
If you tried to email me something - then NO - I did not.

Send me a PM and I will send you my email address. I did have an email change.


I agree that quivers do not need to be closed on the end, unless you are very satisfied the one shooting arrows at you is a worse shot. I do think a double snap that could wear out could be improved on.

Minimize the Risk of cues dropping out, but do not make it as complex as breaking into Fort Knox.

Double the closure methods and really reduce the risk. Consider the double snap plus a belt type colsure on top of that.

Some day somewhere someone carring an envelop case with a mediocre closure will learn a valuable leason. :yikes:
:crying::crying::crying:

I am sorry I had you confused with another person. I don't know anything about quivers but I suspect that the reason most of them don't have a cap is because they need to be easy to get to the arrows and a cap might get in the way. I guess if I were an indian then I'd probably secure my arrows somehow so that I could run and ride without them falling out.

Has anyone ever thought about how tough it probably is to be riding at full gallop and to draw an arrow from the quiver, notch it, draw back and shoot with any accuracy? I would like to see Mythbusters take this on to see if what we see in the movies can really be done. :-)
 
Does the pigskin extend the length of the cavity?

No....do you think I should do it?

If so, I would like to know what advantage you think it migtht offer in this style case.

I have used this style case for the past 15 years without doing any damage to the cue or its finish. If this had been a problem, I would have either corrected it by changing the design or quit making it.
 
No....do you think I should do it?

If so, I would like to know what advantage you think it migtht offer in this style case.

I have used this style case for the past 15 years without doing any damage to the cue or its finish. If this had been a problem, I would have either corrected it by changing the design or quit making it.

Personally yes I think you should. Just because you have not had a problem with any of your cues doesn't mean that someone else's finish might not get scratched or damaged by a hard spot in the leather.

Why not just put a soft cloth or soft leather liner in it just to be sure that nothing will happen?

It's only a few dollars more in materials and few minutes more work so what is the big deal with giving the consumer some piece of mind and making sure the entire length of the cue is laying only against soft material?

Next time you are at a show I dare you to go up to any of the high end cue dealers with one of your leather burnishers which are made from the same leather you use on these cases and ask them to rub it on the butts of the high end cues they have for sale.

With all respect Jack I will bet that not one of them will gamble on messing up the finish on their high end cues using the flesh side of a piece of hard veg tan leather. Not when a blemish reduces the value of a cue by hundreds of dollars.

That's just how I see it. I understand that you do things your way and have your reasons for it. On my version of the envelope case I will line them so that I am sure the cues won't get scratched or dinged up while in the case.
 
When I want to carry multiple cues, I use my Jim Murnak 3x6, but I also wanted to be able to carry one cue in a case that I could stick under the seat of my truck. For me, the answer was a 1x2 envelope case made of English bridle leather by Brian Bonner of Nittany Leather. The case is lightweight and built like a tank. The leather is extremely thick, and the interior is made up of protective tubes, so you get the best of both worlds.

Joe


BrianBonner1x2envelopecase.jpg

Now that's the kind of interior I would like to see in an envelope case....
I would lose the handle and still look for some kind of a solution for the flap n' gap...
 
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Yes....no

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While the metal snaps can not hurt the cue as it is not visible on the inside, just hearing the cue parts hitting each other makes my skin crawl...
Even if it won't hurt the cue/shafts, I don't feel comfortable with it.

Really Jack, you should at least fold some leather to create dividers between the cue parts.
 
Call me anal but I wouldn't have a case where the pieces of my cue rubbed together or on the back of hard leather. Gotta be seperated and lined. imo
 
yup

Call me anal but I wouldn't have a case where the pieces of my cue rubbed together or on the back of hard leather. Gotta be seperated and lined. imo

me too. My skin crawls when a house cue drops, rubbing two cues or a cue and two shafts together :eek::eek:
 
Personally yes I think you should. Just because you have not had a problem with any of your cues doesn't mean that someone else's finish might not get scratched or damaged by a hard spot in the leather.

Why not just put a soft cloth or soft leather liner in it just to be sure that nothing will happen?

It's only a few dollars more in materials and few minutes more work so what is the big deal with giving the consumer some piece of mind and making sure the entire length of the cue is laying only against soft material?

Next time you are at a show I dare you to go up to any of the high end cue dealers with one of your leather burnishers which are made from the same leather you use on these cases and ask them to rub it on the butts of the high end cues they have for sale.

With all respect Jack I will bet that not one of them will gamble on messing up the finish on their high end cues using the flesh side of a piece of hard veg tan leather. Not when a blemish reduces the value of a cue by hundreds of dollars.

That's just how I see it. I understand that you do things your way and have your reasons for it. On my version of the envelope case I will line them so that I am sure the cues won't get scratched or dinged up while in the case.


I don't know why Jack even acknowledges you and you're ramblings. You asked a simple question and got a simple answer. You then continue to slander Jack as a casemaker and act as if he doesn't know what he's doing with a tried and true method. I'm going to be the first to say it "Not everyone is a John Barton fan" I think you are a pompous a$$ who believes his work is better than anyone elses and you try to build yourself up by belittling others. I would probably move a few more rungs down the ladder and then insert yourself into a place with some other less respected case makers. I can't wait to read your ridiculous 8 paragraph rant after reading this. Best of luck copying and building the worlds best envelope case, I bet there's a huge market for them!

Doug
 
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With all respect Jack ...

I find irony in this statement from you ...

You continue to "needle"/"diss" other case makers in public including Jack Justis and Jim Murnak. They continue to take the high road, IMHO.

I'm one of those who will not buy a case from you simply because of your lack of professionalism.
 
I find irony in this statement from you ...

You continue to "needle"/"diss" other case makers in public including Jack Justis and Jim Murnak. They continue to take the high road, IMHO.

I'm one of those who will not buy a case from you simply because of your lack of professionalism.

Ok, so having a DISCUSSION on how a case should be built is needling and disrespectful and unprofessional?

My waiting list is getting longer every day so apparently others appreciate the discussions on cue protection.

When you have to lower the price on a cue because the finish got scratched by putting it in a case where it can rub against something abrasive or the parts rub against each other and cause that scratch you might someday think, "hey, that John Barton might have been right".

Or not.

But, yes, the comment that you took OUT OF CONTEXT, was with all due respect to Jack Justis' standing as a casemaker, I doubt that even a hihg end cue dealer would want to rub the leahter on the butt of their cues.

Do you? Would you?
 
I don't know why Jack even acknowledges you and you're ramblings. You asked a simple question and got a simple answer. You then continue to slander Jack as a casemaker and act as if he doesn't know what he's doing with a tried and true method. I'm going to be the first to say it "Not everyone is a John Barton fan" I think you are a pompous a$$ who believes his work is better than anyone elses and you try to build yourself up by belittling others. I would probably move a few more rungs down the ladder and then insert yourself into a place with some other less respected case makers. I can't wait to read your ridiculous 8 paragraph rant after reading this. Best of luck copying and building the worlds best envelope case, I bet there's a huge market for them!

Doug

Have you read the response? Apparently other people don't feel that a naked interior is all that great either.

Let's get something clear, there is performance and there is beauty. In a cue case performance is measured in how well it protects. Period.

I think that a frank discussion about how well cue cases protect is never belittling.

It's funny that SOME of the people on this board think its ok to discuss the merits of certain cues and cuemakers ad infinitum and yet cases and case makers are off limits. If there is a ranking list of case makers then I don't care if I am on it. I know where I stand and that is to continue to build VERY PROTECTIVE cases. If people like that great if they don't want to buy because I come across as abrasive then great.

I might be abrasive but my case interiors aren't.
 
My waiting list is getting longer every day so apparently others appreciate the discussions on cue protection.

It's funny that with such a huge waiting list you posted up 6 more cases for sale today :rolleyes:

When you have to lower the price on a cue because the finish got scratched by putting it in a case where it can rub against something abrasive or the parts rub against each other and cause that scratch you might someday think, "hey, that John Barton might have been right".

Or not.

But, yes, the comment that you took OUT OF CONTEXT, was with all due respect to Jack Justis' standing as a casemaker, I doubt that even a hihg end cue dealer would want to rub the leahter on the butt of their cues.

Do you? Would you?

Yes I would and do, to the best of my knowledge leather won't scratch a quality finish and if there's one thing I will never say, it's "John Barton might have been right."

Doug
 
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Yes I would and do, to the best of my knowledge leather won't scratch a quality finish and if there's one thing I will never say, it's "John Barton might have been right."

Doug

Sorry I don't yet have a waiting list of people who say they will just take anything I make. But I do have a list of people who want cases from me and those cases are all in design. That list grows each day.

The cases I posted have been built for other people who changed their design sometime in the process, with the exception of the blue one, and we put them aside and hadn't done anything with them so I decided to put them up instead of having them collecting dust.

I could sell all six to dealers and not hassle with AZ but the cost of shipping them by air is prohibitive and I prefer to ship dealer ordered cases with our containers. Not that I owe you any explanation about how I do business but since you think that you trapped me somehow I guess I ought to address it.

Well, I am not afraid to admit that I might be wrong. So I just went and got a piece of veg tan leather and rubbed it vigorously on the finish of one of my cues. The rubbing dulled the finish and left fine scratches on the cue.

It also pilled my irish linen, which means it raised the fibers on it.

My little test is inconclusive however because the cue I am using for the test has a lot of scratches on it from being in the test cue bin. I have seen enough however to believe that when I do this rub test on video and starting with a pristine cue that it will clearly show that putting the cue in a hard cavity against the flesh side of veg tan leather is not good for the finish or for irish linen wraps.

Nor would it be that good for fine leather wraps either I suspect. I can test that later by rubbing the leather on some real Ostrich, and some gator prints, and some nappa leather.

I would be HAPPY if Jack was right, then I could build cases far easier and not worry about it.

Why don't you send me those cues you traded a house for and I will give them all a good polishing with our veg tan stiff leather? Since you are so knowledgeable about leather you do know that leather sometimes has hard spots not unlike knots in wood don't you? This comes from bug bite, infections, creases, derbis that has embedded itself in the leather and so on.

You are probably rich enough to screw up your cues out of spite but why don't you post some videos of you polishing the butts of your best cues using the same leather Jack does to make the cases? With before and after pictures please.

And the last point I want to make is one of perception.

Even if Jack is right that the stiff leather will not harm a cue in any way it's clear that SOME PEOPLE perceive that it will and are uncomfortable with it the way he does it. So why not just put a soft cloth liner in the case and take away that fear altogether?

This discussion was started my me to get input on envelope cases and I have received plenty of information to guide me on how I want to proceed.

Once in a while I get to thinking that protection doesn't matter and it's threads like these that let me know I am on the right path in my passion for building cases the way I think that they should be built.
 
I don't know why Jack even acknowledges you and you're ramblings. You asked a simple question and got a simple answer. You then continue to slander Jack as a casemaker and act as if he doesn't know what he's doing with a tried and true method.

Doug

I asked a question and he answered with a counter question and a justification as to why he does it the way he does.

This is what he said;

No....do you think I should do it?

And my answers. Yes, you should.

If so, I would like to know what advantage you think it migtht offer in this style case.

It would eliminate the slightest chance and any perception that the way you do it now could damage the finish of the cue.

I have used this style case for the past 15 years without doing any damage to the cue or its finish. If this had been a problem, I would have either corrected it by changing the design or quit making it.


Understandable. However as you can see by the responses of others they do not share your confidence in this method and extending the liner (and dividing the cavity into separate spaces for each part) would give any consumer complete confidence in the case without the need to justify the lack of a liner.

---- video proof of my contentions to follow soon ------

JB, cue protection fanatic.
 
I think if your goal is to build envelope cases, then you should first understand what they were designed for. I will start by telling you that they are not typically used for or designed for storing 10k cues. These were typically used by "road players" that wanted a lightweight inconspicuous case to tote there daily player in. I really don't know anyone that would use an envelope case as a storage case for a high end cue and if they did, I doubt that they would be ramming it constantly in and out of the case. I think you need a realistic thought process and understand what these cases will be used for and who will be in the market for them. Do a Google search, it's called target marketing. Best of luck with your life ventures, I hope you find something that makes you happy. Maybe look into copying Brian Bonners cases as I feel his are fantastic. Subject is over for me.

Doug
 
Road players make a living out of their cues, add to to that the hazards of traveling and protecting the cue would be my first need....

So let's say I travel with my $80 Dufferin cue, does it makes any sense to get a $250 leather case.... I can get a 1x1 or 1x2 case for $30 that would serve the road player much better.

True, in the "old days" thing were different but:
1. Today we know better
2. If I spend $250 on a custom case, I'll probably would want to put a nicer cue in it then a Dufferin....

You can go for that classic road runner envelope case BUT why not add to it today's knowledge and technology to protect the cues in it?

Do not tell me that you won't appreciate the Justis envelope case a bit better if it had lining and dividers inside it. I know that I, as an owner of such case would.
 
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