Epoxy mess

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Anyone ever run into the epoxy basecoat not drying? It's been a month and it's still very sticky. It's in a room with a dehumidifier. It was put on during a high humidity week, and then moved into the room. The epoxy is finishcure, and I've not had this happen before. It was mixed well and properly. Any ideas welcome as to how to remove the sticky mess so I can redo it? Thanks,
Dave
 
soak a rag in reducer and wipe it off.caveat,i have never done this on epoxy but it works on paint.
 
Dave ....I know you say that you mixed it right, BUT, since it's been so long and if I had to guess.....I going to say the mixture wasn't correct even though you may think it was. Double check your pumps if your using them.
I have always measured mine by weight and have in the past even screwed up doing it that way. I should have used the calculator instead of trying to use my mind.



<~~~just a guess..........................
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Dave ....I know you say that you mixed it right, BUT, since it's been so long and if I had to guess.....I going to say the mixture wasn't correct even though you may think it was. Double check your pumps if your using them.
I have always measured mine by weight and have in the past even screwed up doing it that way. I should have used the calculator instead of trying to use my mind.



<~~~just a guess..........................
Click to expand...

I agree I always weigh mine I seen epoxy not setup 1 time on a fellow
cue builders cue and that day forward I told my self to weigh mine. He was using west and relied on pumps to measure. With that said if your absolutely sure that the epoxy was mixed right have you used it since did you have a issue. If you have not used it since I would toss it. Just my $0.02 :)
 
I'm not familiar with the epoxy you are using, but I don't think any of that quick set epoxy ever gets hard. I don't care how careful I weigh out some G5, I can come back a day later and it's still rubbery.

I was building some furniture once and I tried to fill in a mistake that would be hidden anyway with some devcon 2 ton from those tubes. I think weeks later it still wasn't hard. I bought some more when I started cue maker told me the first thing I should do is throw every one of those Devcon tubes in the garbage.

I still use G5, but it's mainly to glue inlay slabs to wood so that I can cut all the way through. I guess they should rename all 20 minute epoxy's to 20 minute super balls. That's probably about all they are good for. If you must seal your woods with epoxy, then I would recommend West 207.
 
I should have stated that I do weigh the mix. it's a one to one mix, and weighing it is also, 1/8 oz to 1/8oz, etc. I have used it before and haven't had this happen. It does dry hard, just takes about 3-4hrs for the first coat to setup, not dry to the touch. I think they should drop the 20 minute crap from the title. I usually heat the mix up with a lamp as the manufacturer's tips sheet says it works best if heated to about 90 degrees before spreading. I found that doing this also allows the trapped air to rise and disperse before spreading it. This time I didn't do the heat, (forgot to) plus the humidity will slow it all down alot!!
I just tried the alcohol and it seemed to remove alot of it, and will let it set overnite and check it tomorrow and see if I have to do more. Thanks for the help and advice guys
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I should have stated that I do weigh the mix. it's a one to one mix, and weighing it is also, 1/8 oz to 1/8oz, etc. I have used it before and haven't had this happen. It does dry hard, just takes about 3-4hrs for the first coat to setup, not dry to the touch. I think they should drop the 20 minute crap from the title. I usually heat the mix up with a lamp as the manufacturer's tips sheet says it works best if heated to about 90 degrees before spreading. I found that doing this also allows the trapped air to rise and disperse before spreading it. This time I didn't do the heat, (forgot to) plus the humidity will slow it all down alot!!
I just tried the alcohol and it seemed to remove alot of it, and will let it set overnite and check it tomorrow and see if I have to do more. Thanks for the help and advice guys
Dave
Click to expand...

You should not use a 1 to 1 epoxy. There is no such thing as a 1 to 1 mix with epoxy. What they do is add a filler to the hardened to make up the 1 to 1 mix. So what can happen is the hardener by chance not have the right mix when you squeeze it out. In fact the hardener may have almost no hardener and all filler when you squeeze it out. I hope I am making sense. You should use something like West where you do the correct mix yourself say 3.7 to 1 or what ever. I hate to say it but two part 1 to 1 mix epoxy may be good for around the house repairs but not in cue making, boat work, musical instrument work and so on.
 
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I have a fresh kit of finish cure, but haven't tried It yet, so I can't speak for that. I have used system 3 2 part, and It is Ok as long as you don't wait to long to finish over It, because the longer It sits unprotected the quicker It starts to amber.

As far as what Your talking about though the sys3 does not get nearly as bad as what You mention, but I don't use It when the moisture is high because It does effect the curing some. It's not so bad You can't still sand It, but It will gum up paper quick when you skim the top layer, if not fully cured. It sands nicely when fully cured though.

I just finished a kit of that stuff up, and I think I'm gonna skip the finish cure, and finally jump on the west system boat. The stuff is kind of expensive, but I'm getting where I use enough finish epoxy that It's worth the piece of mind to Me to spend alittle more. Mixing and curing issues aside, I don't trust 1to1's not to yellow eventually, and I don't know if a UV finish over the top would be enough to prevent It over the long haul.

Greg
 
I have always measured mine by weight and have in the past even screwed up doing it that way. I should have used the calculator instead of trying to use my mind.
Click to expand...


i hate it when that happens or even worse is to mix the 3.5:1 at 5:1 or vice a versa.
 
Dave38 said:
I should have stated that I do weigh the mix. it's a one to one mix, and weighing it is also, 1/8 oz to 1/8oz, etc. I have used it before and haven't had this happen. It does dry hard, just takes about 3-4hrs for the first coat to setup, not dry to the touch. I think they should drop the 20 minute crap from the title. I usually heat the mix up with a lamp as the manufacturer's tips sheet says it works best if heated to about 90 degrees before spreading. I found that doing this also allows the trapped air to rise and disperse before spreading it. This time I didn't do the heat, (forgot to) plus the humidity will slow it all down alot!!
I just tried the alcohol and it seemed to remove alot of it, and will let it set overnite and check it tomorrow and see if I have to do more. Thanks for the help and advice guys
Dave
Click to expand...
20 minute really means 24 hours :rolleyes:
i use the bob smith finish cure , prathers & atlas both have it
overnite it is very hard, dry & clear
i love it
willieee and i talked about this on the phone just the other day
by the way, was nice talking to you williee

i heat it with a blowdryer till it's like water
spread on cue with a cosmetic sponge
then heat some more with blowdryer while cue is spinning
seems to help the epoxy flow more, leaving less ridges and humps to deal with
sand & repeat a day or two later
 
BHQ said:
20 minute really means 24 hours :rolleyes:
i use the bob smith finish cure , prathers & atlas both have it
overnite it is very hard, dry & clear
i love it
willieee and i talked about this on the phone just the other day
by the way, was nice talking to you williee

i heat it with a blowdryer till it's like water
spread on cue with a cosmetic sponge
then heat some more with blowdryer while cue is spinning
seems to help the epoxy flow more, leaving less ridges and humps to deal with
sand & repeat a day or two later
Click to expand...
I use the same stuff, and I like it, normally:D This time something went wrong. I heat it up under a lamp till it's like water, then apply it with a gloved finger, then spin it slowly in my spray box, with 4 lamps in it that heats the inside up to about 85-90 degrees. I do that for about an hour then cut the lights. It usually comes out great. I tried the system three clear epoxy, and it dries clear, but I always end up with air bubbles about 20min after appling. It keeps doing that throughout the drying process. I may try the West system stuff in the future, but I really don't use alot right now, for that kind of money.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I use the same stuff, and I like it, normally:D This time something went wrong. I heat it up under a lamp till it's like water, then apply it with a gloved finger, then spin it slowly in my spray box, with 4 lamps in it that heats the inside up to about 85-90 degrees. I do that for about an hour then cut the lights. It usually comes out great. I tried the system three clear epoxy, and it dries clear, but I always end up with air bubbles about 20min after appling. It keeps doing that throughout the drying process. I may try the West system stuff in the future, but I really don't use alot right now, for that kind of money.
Dave
Click to expand...
could the bubbles be caused by air/moisture expanding in the wood from the heat???????????
try it without heat??????????????????
 
Dave38 said:
Anyone ever run into the epoxy basecoat not drying? It's been a month and it's still very sticky. It's in a room with a dehumidifier. It was put on during a high humidity week, and then moved into the room. The epoxy is finishcure, and I've not had this happen before. It was mixed well and properly. Any ideas welcome as to how to remove the sticky mess so I can redo it? Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...

I have sometimes used west epoxy as a sealer and you can use an inferred light to dry it.
 
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